It was one evening in Souq Waqif, a few days before the World Cup kicked off, when we first wondered whether things were quite how they seemed.
It wasn’t just this modern market, built to mimic an ancient souq but actually constructed in 2006, that seemed out of place.
Coming out of the metro every 20 minutes or so, as if on a schedule, were small groups of football “fans”, faithfully wearing their team’s colours and singing chants.
Rather than being Brazilian, Mexican, Tunisian or English though, they were mostly from Kerala – these were some of Qatar’s migrant workers, the same people who had laboured for years to build the tournament infrastructure, often in appalling conditions and all too often at the cost to their own health or even lives.
In their groups, they would do a lap or two of the souq, wave their adopted team’s flag and make some noise with whatever instrument they’d brought, or been given. Diners generally looked on amused, we got up to investigate.
Were these genuine supporters, as they swore blind they were, or fake fans, organised by Qatar to create an atmosphere as some media had reported?
After speaking to a few England “fans”, my producer and I were convinced that their football knowledge was too good, and authentic, to have been faked; others in our team disagreed.
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Image: Doha, Qatar. Pic: AP
They told us that they had been waiting years for this moment, and were determined to enjoy it because they couldn’t afford to travel to another World Cup; they had followed the Premier League for years and supported Liverpool, Manchester United, Arsenal etc. And why not? After all, this was the World Cup they’d built.
We didn’t meet anyone who said they had been paid to be there, as some newspapers had alleged, but unfairly or not, this episode was an early introduction to the insecurities of Qatar 2022 – a country as image conscious as the multi-millionaire footballers playing there.
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Nothing about Qatar 2022 has been normal: Never has the football World Cup been played during European winter months; never has it been held in the Middle East; and never has a tournament been as controversial as this.
At $300bn (£247bn), it has been the most expensive World Cup in history as well as the shortest, played over just 28 days.
The temperatures, although often hot at the height of the day, were perfectly bearable.
Image: Harry Kane’s missed penalty will haunt England fans
The official World Cup songs, played on a loop in shopping malls and hotel lobbies, at stadia and on the streets, were annoyingly catchy, but fun.
Having a tournament based entirely around one city had its advantages – no air travel, no need to constantly move hotels, and no game was more than 40 minutes away.
The stadia, seven of the eight built from scratch for this tournament, were eye-catching works of architecture.
I thought Al Bayt, designed to look like a Bedouin tent, with burning wood fire outside and all, was quite breathtaking and utterly unique. After the tournament it will be converted into another shopping mall.
The bar atmosphere, a feature of so many World Cups, was missing and although that made for a strangely subdued atmosphere on the streets, in a month of football I witnessed only two drunk supporters: one, an Iranian unable to stand up before his side took on the United States; the other, an England supporter who rested his chin on my shoulder towards the end of a live broadcast and then presumptively volunteered his predictions for the upcoming match, including timings.
Instead, the atmosphere among rival fans was respectful and friendly. No bad thing.
On the pitch, matches were similarly well-mannered. By the quarter final stage, only seven players had been suspended for receiving two yellow cards, and just two red cards had been issued, one of which went to Wales goalkeeper Wayne Hennessey.
England managed to play more than 400 minutes of football before receiving their first yellow card of the tournament, which finally came against France.
Not a single England fan was arrested, and true to Qatar’s promise, LGBT fans were welcomed, with a few public exceptions.
In fact, the most common flag of protest wasn’t the rainbow, but the black, green, white and red of Palestine.
Image: Morocco’s glorious run to the semi-final was a huge feature of the tournament. Pic: AP
It was an almost universal sign of solidarity, carried by fans of many nations, paraded by pitch invaders, draped over the shoulders of supporters, used in a victory photo by the Moroccan team, and displayed in hotels and on streets alongside the flags of the actual competing nations.
There were rumours that Qatari organisers secretly handed them out to fans; they certainly turned a blind eye in a way they didn’t to other political symbols.
The Abraham Accords are lauded by some regional powers, and Israel believes the Accords prove a softening of relations with past rivals, but travel through much of the Middle East and that sentiment it isn’t reflected by ordinary Arab people. Qatar 2022 reinforced that.
Image: Palestinian flags were a common sight during the World Cup. Pic: AP
The first World Cup in the Middle East has briefly bonded the Arab world – it has been unashamedly Muslim in feel and tone, showcasing regional culture and in keeping with Islamic custom – the DJ set at the opening fan festival fell silent for the Maghrib dusk prayers.
The presence of the Saudi Crown Prince, Mohammed bin Salman, in the royal box at the opening ceremony, was a moment of genuine political significance; only two years ago the royal kingdom led a blockade of Qatar but that now appears to be forgotten.
The Qatari hosts, after a difficult start, are now relaxing in the success of a tournament in its final days.
And yet while it is right to highlight the successes, isn’t that also precisely what “sports-washing” is? The drama and joy of sport to distract from an uncomfortable reality.
As the football jamboree leaves town, we mustn’t lose sight of the problems this country, and others in the region, still have.
Image: Will Argentina’s Lionel Messi finally achieve World Cup glory in his last chance?
We didn’t ignore the terrible human cost of building the World Cup infrastructure in the build-up to the tournament, and nor must we forget it, now that it is almost over.
Every day, I saw migrant workers staring out of dirty windows on ancient Tata buses, being driven to and from their worksites.
It was a jarring contrast with the new and air-conditioned coaches and modern metro that ferried tourists and fans seamlessly around the city. This is a land of the haves and have-nots, and more needs to be done to close that gap.
Foreigners weren’t allowed to visit the industrial fan zone where many of the migrant workers watched the games, but colleagues who did report none of the colour and buzz seen at the city’s main fan zones. There are two-worlds in Qatar, living in parallel but not as equals.
The secretary general of the Supreme Committee, Hassan Al Thawadi, finally confessed in a interview mid-tournament that the death toll of workers was somewhere between 400-500.
Whether that figure is anywhere close to the truth, it is certainly more realistic than the ludicrously low claim that just six had died, a figure that authorities had stubbornly repeated for months.
Sadly, the tournament claimed two more lives – one Filipino worker died at Saudi Arabia’s training ground, and a 24-year-old Kenyan died last weekend when he fell from the 8th floor of Lusail Stadium after Argentina’s quarter final win over the Netherlands.
The organising committee dismissed the first death as “part of life” and questioned why journalists would bring it up mid-tournament.
It shows a callousness for human life, too often on display among the elite – sure, accidents happen, just not on the scale they have in Qatar.
Image: Moroccan fans after their national team knocked Spain out of the tournament
David Beckham, employed by Qatar on a staggering multi-million-pound contract to promote the tournament and the country, has been regularly seen but not heard – his reputational damage will take years to correct.
The past aside, but not forgotten, Qatar now looks to the future. So, what next for this small, but insanely wealthy Gulf state, now that the biggest show on earth packs up and rolls on?
Sporting ambitions remain – the Arab Cup will be held here in early 2024, and there are whisperings of an Olympic bid.
Next year the Formula One circus will arrive for the first of 10 annual Grand Prix and one of the World Cup stadiums will be converted to host women’s sport.
They will also look to tourism, but unlike their playboy neighbour, Dubai, which is increasingly reliant on package holidays from Instagram-obsessed Europeans hunting winter sun, the Qataris are focusing on the Asian and African markets.
Image: Photo by AP
Indian weddings are a hoped-for source of revenue – another stadium will be transformed into a series of vast wedding halls.
It’s a shrewd ploy from a country determined to carve out its own powerful niche surrounded by equally ambitious neighbours.
Energy exports, worth $54.3bn (£44.7bn) in the first half of 2022 alone, have made this state rich beyond belief, and they will continue to find willing buyers in cash-strapped European partners struggling through winter, as the effects of the war in Ukraine bite.
Like all GCC states though, Qatar is yet to work out how to diversify its revenue as the world weans itself off fossil fuels.
Labour rights, which have been “significantly” improved in recent years according to the UN’s the International Labour Organisation (ILO), are still far from perfect and the ILO repeatedly insists there is much room for improvement.
Nevertheless, Qatar should be a model for other Middle Eastern countries to copy, if they have the humility too.
Image: Disappointed Germany fans seen after their side crashed out of the World Cup
So was it worth it?
In short, yes. Ask a senior Qatari that question a fortnight ago, and the answer might have been different, but with the final now hours away, the overriding feeling is of a job well done.
If the many fans I spoke to, of all nationalities, are representative of most, then thousands will have returned home with positive stories to tell of Qatar. As a host country, that is as much as you can ask for.
Whether FIFA awards another winter World Cup, I have my doubts, and I rather suspect Saudi Arabia’s dream of holding the tournament anytime soon might end in disappointment.
As a stand-alone sporting tournament, Qatar should be congratulated. It was different, certainly, but the world’s biggest sporting event shouldn’t always be staged in the mould of football’s Western powerhouses. And this wasn’t.
In the end, however, it was football, not politics, that brought about change in Qatar.
Were it not for the World Cup, would labour laws have been improved? Would LGBT+ rights have been relaxed? Would traditionally rival regional neighbours have come together in the way they did?
Qatar, I hope, will realise that the World Cup has helped make it a more liberal, accepting and compassionate society; more change is needed and as the eyes of the world turn away once more, that change must still continue to happen.
This country is only part-way on a long journey of reform – the legacy of this World Cup is still being written.
The alleged GPS jamming of a plane carrying Ursula von der Leyen by Russia raises concerns about air travel – but were there politics at play?
Jamming can overwhelm an aircraft’s GPS navigation systems, preventing them from working properly, leaving pilots to rely on other ways of finding out where they are.
The EU said there was GPS jamming but the plane was able to land safely, adding: “We have received information from Bulgarian authorities that they suspect this blatant interference was carried out by Russia.”
But the timing of the allegation of GPS jamming – something reported to be routine along the Russian border – days before a crucial meeting of European leaders to discuss peacekeeping troops for Ukraine raises the question of why now?
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Explained: How GPS jamming works
Sky News has spoken to a pilot who was flying in the same area as Ms von der Leyen on Sunday, as well as a security expert with extensive knowledge of electronic warfare, to try and work out what happened.
What is GPS jamming?
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GPS interference has become a known and widespread issue affecting aircraft over Europe in recent years, particularly since the outbreak of the war in Ukraine in 2022.
Experts generally point the finger at Russia, saying that Moscow uses GPS interference to defend against Ukrainian drones but maybe also to cause a nuisance for the West.
Jamming can overwhelm an aircraft’s GPS navigation systems, preventing them from working properly, leaving pilots to rely on other ways of finding out where they are.
Image: A plane transporting Ursula von der Leyen and her staff on Sunday. Pic: Reuters
What happened to Ursula von der Leyen?
According to the Financial Times, the ‘attack’ disabled GPS navigation services at Plovdiv airport in Bulgaria on Sunday afternoon.
The aircraft was deprived of electronic navigational aids as it approached, the newspaper said. It circled the airport for an hour before the pilot decided to manually land the plane, apparently using paper maps.
The area is near a known hotspot for GPS interference and blame was quickly levelled at Russia – a claim that Moscow denied. Russia has denied other instances of GPS jamming in the past.
NATO chief Mark Rutte said the alliance takes the jamming of GPS signals “very seriously” and is working “day and night” to prevent that jamming, to ensure “they will not do it again”.
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Pilot: Airport is in a known GPS interference area
Sean Fitzpatrick is an experienced pilot who regularly flies through areas known for GPS interference. Indeed, he flew within 40 miles of Plovdiv airport on the same day as Ms Von der Leyen.
He told Sky News: “That airport is in a known GPS interference area. Anyone flying in there would know that there’s a high probability of having GPS issues.”
While GPS jamming is a nuisance, pilots essentially turn off GPS receivers and rely on other aids like the instrument landing system, Sean said.
He added: “When I heard they were pulling out paper charts (to navigate) I’m like, why didn’t they just have an iPad?”
Given that GPS jamming of flights near the Russian border is reported to be routine, Sean was asked if the choice to reveal this particular alleged incident to the media – so close to the coalition of the willing summit this week – was political.
“Based on the information I have, that’s what it looks like… Based on what I’ve seen and the information that’s available to the public and what I know as a professional… I think there’s a bit of politics and sensationalism.”
Image: A map of GPS interference levels detected over Europe earlier this year. Credit: GPSjam.org
‘We can make your life difficult’
Dr Thomas Withington, an expert on electronic warfare at the RUSI thinktank, agreed that there could be political angles to what happened.
“I think it’s quite hard to say with any degree of certainty whether her aircraft was deliberately targeted,” he told Sky News, noting that jamming signals are often sent out over a wide area. “But I’m sure that for Mr Putin it’s a very happy coincidence.”
He added: “Politically, what you’re saying is ‘we’re here, we can make your life difficult’.”
He also spoke about the wider impact of GPS jamming – and the possible dangers.
“I think it is important that the news went out there, because I think it indicates that Russia is an irresponsible actor, and these actions are grossly irresponsible, because you’re attempting to create a danger to international air travel, and there is simply no justification for that.”
He referenced the Azerbaijan Airlines flight in December, which was reportedly GPS jammed before it was mistakenly shot down by Russian air defences, killing 38 people.
“If those (Russian) actions cause loss of life, particularly in a NATO nation, I think it should be made very clear that a military response would be considered for that.”
French actor Gerard Depardieu has been summoned to face trial in Paris over allegations of rape and sexual assault against actress Charlotte Arnould.
“I feel relieved,” Ms Arnould wrote on Instagram after receiving the judge’s indictment order.
“The order restores a form of judicial truth. I think I’m having trouble realising how huge this is.”
Image: Charlotte Arnould. Pic: Reuters
Ms Arnould’s lawyer, Carine Durrieu-Diebolt, told French outlet Franceinfo she was “extremely satisfied” and said the decision was a “moment of judicial truth in this case”.
In 2018, prosecutors in Paris opened a preliminary investigation after Ms Arnould accused Depardieu of raping her at his home. He has denied wrongdoing.
“The acts of rape and sexual assault have been acknowledged,” Ms Arnould said. “Now, we await the next steps.”
Last year, prosecutors submitted a request for the case to proceed to trial.
The 76-year-old was convicted of groping a 34-year-old assistant and a 54-year-old woman responsible for decorating the set during the filming of Les Volets Verts (The Green Shutters) in 2021.
The court ordered his name to be listed in the national sex offender database.
At least seven people have been killed, parliament buildings have been set alight and more than 1,000 people have been arrested as anti-government protests sweep across Indonesia.
The unrest began in Jakarta, the country’s capital, more than a week ago – but has grown into wider demonstrations in at least 32 of Indonesia‘s 38 provinces, according to the country’s home minister.
Many of the protests turned violent after the death of Affan Kurniawan. The 21-year-old was trying to deliver food when he was caught up in a clash between police and protesters in Jakarta.
Now, many Indonesians are calling for a list of 25 demands from the government, including the end of police brutality and ensuring decent wages for the public. The hashtag #ResetIndonesia is filling social media, with many users adding pink and green colours to their profile pictures in response to the protests.
Here is everything you need to know.
What sparked the protests?
Public outrage grew when it emerged that all 580 members of the country’s House of Representatives receive a monthly housing allowance of 50 million rupiah (approximately £2,270), in addition to their salaries.
The benefit, introduced last year, is nearly 10 times the Jakarta minimum wage. Critics have argued it is not only excessive but also insensitive during a time of rising cost of living, taxes and unemployment.
Image: Pic: Reuters
Protests also targeted what demonstrators called “corrupt elites” within the government and policies that, according to one student-led group, benefit conglomerates and the military.
A statement by the group, called Gejayan Memanggil, appeared to reference the growing role of the military in civilian life under President Prabowo Subianto, who is a former military general.
Image: A man attempts to throw back a tear gas canister toward riot police on 25 August. Pic: Reuters
On 25 August, hundreds of protesters marched through the streets of Jakarta surrounding the parliament building. Witnesses claimed that some tried to get inside.
Others, dressed in dark clothing, threw rocks and set off fireworks at riot police, who fired tear gas and used a water cannon to try and push back the crowd. Officials did not provide details of damage, any casualties or arrests.
Violent escalation
Violence between the two sides escalated after the death of Mr Kurniawan, who was reportedly hit by an armoured police vehicle, which sped through a crowd of protesters on Thursday 28 September.
The following day clashes between riot police and protesters erupted in multiple cities across the country, including in Medan, Solo, Yogyakarta, Magelang, Malang, Bengkulu, Pekanbaru and Manokwari in the eastern Papua region.
Image: Students confront the police in Jakarta. Pic: AP/Tatan Syuflana
In the city of Makassar on Sulawesi island, at least three people died, and five others were injured after a local parliament building was set on fire.
Protesters also stormed the regional police headquarters in Surabaya, Indonesia’s second-largest city, after destroying fences and torching vehicles.
Image: Police officers walk amid tear gas. Pic: AP/Trisnadi
Image: Pic: AP/Binsar Bakkara
Indonesian security forces used tear gas and water cannons against the protesters, who hit back with fireworks and wooden clubs.
The violent scenes emerging from the country led to TikTok voluntarily suspending its feature for users to go live, citing measures to keep the platform a safe and civil space.
Senior minister Airlangga Hartarto said on Monday that at least eight people had died in the clashes. Jakata’s health office said 469 were injured, including 97 who needed hospital treatment.
Image: Flames rise as a building in Bandung, Jawa Barat. Pic: Instagram/@suryagagalbersinar via Reuters
Image: Pic: Reuters
At least 1,240 protesters were arrested after five days of demonstrations in the capital, with city officials reporting $3.4m (£2.5m) in damage.
Image: The aftermath of a violent protest. Pic: AP/Masyudi Firmansyah
‘Doxxing’ of political figures
Certain Indonesian officials became the targets of social media “doxxing” – the searching and publishing of private information with malicious intent – which revealed their addresses and led to the looting of their homes.
One of those was finance minister Sri Mulyani Indrawati, whose home was broken into after a deep-fake video of her circulated where she said teachers were a burden. Ms Indrawati was not at the property at the time.
The home of politician Ahmad Sahroni was also looted after he said calls to dissolve parliament over the financial benefit were being made by the “stupidest people in the world”.
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Indonesian politician’s house stormed
What has the government said?
When visiting some of those injured during the violence, Mr Prabowo said the unrest was being fuelled by“rioters, not protesters,” and accused the groups who had organised the action of trying to destabilise the nation.
He also cancelled a high-profile trip to China to attend a “Victory Day” parade alongside other world leaders to focus on ending the protests.
Image: Indonesian President Prabowo Subianto. Pic: AP
It represents the most significant challenge yet to the president’s government, which has faced little political opposition since taking office nearly a year ago.
In a rare concession, Mr Prabowo told a televised news conference on 31 August that the government would cut politicians’ perks and privileges, including the housing allowance that caused the demonstrations.
He also said police were investigating seven officers linked to the death of Mr Kurniawan, but warned that security forces would act firmly to control law and order.
Image: Ride-hailing motorbike drivers at a rally calling for peace after the protests. Pic: Reuters
Is there an end in sight?
Despite concessions from the government, demonstrations across the country have continued.
Groups of student protesters gathered in Jakarta on 1 September, as well as in Indonesia’s cultural hub of Yogyakarta, and the cities of Bandung and Makassar, the site of the weekend’s worst violence.
“The president’s statement did not accommodate demands from students and civil society,” Syamry, the leader of a student group from Makassar State University, said.
Image: A university student delivers his speech during a protest. Pic: Reuters
They said students also had other, deeper demands, such as comprehensive police reform.
Tensions remained high on Tuesday as police fired tear gas into crowds of protesters near the campuses of the Islamic University of Bandung – also known as UNISBA – and nearby Pasundan University, according to two student groups at the two institutions.
Police official Hendra Rochmawan said authorities did not enter the campuses but had tried to break up crowds of non-student protesters seeking protection within the grounds, as crowds blocked roads in the area.
Image: Pic: Reuters
International rights groups have criticised the response of security officials, with the United Nations calling for rights violations to be investigated.
But the deputy Asia director of Human Rights Watch said authorities “acted irresponsibly by treating the protests as acts of treason or terrorism”.