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The fashion designer Mary Quant has died, her family have said.

She was 93 and well-known as a pioneer of the mini-skirt and hot pants.

The Victoria & Albert Museum website says there is “no conclusive evidence” to say who first adopted a mini-skirt look.

But for Dame Mary, it became a trademark of her style.

She was one of the most influential figures in the fashion scene of the 1960s and is credited with making fashion accessible to the masses with her sleek, streamlined and vibrant designs.

Mary Quant
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Dame Mary named the mini-skirt after her favourite make of car

A statement released on behalf of her family said: “Dame Mary Quant died peacefully at home in Surrey, UK, this morning.

“Dame Mary, aged 93, was one of the most internationally recognised fashion designers of the 20th century and an outstanding innovator of the Swinging Sixties.

“She opened her first shop Bazaar in the Kings Road in 1955 and her far-sighted and creative talents quickly established a unique contribution to British fashion.”

Bazaar was one of the few shops in London that offered a radically different shopping experience – with loud music, free drinks and late opening hours.

Mary Quant. Pic: AP
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The fashion designer at Selfridges in London in 1987. Pic: AP

Alexandra Shulman, former editor-in-chief of British Vogue, paid tribute to Dame Mary, writing on Twitter: “RIP Dame Mary Quant. A leader of fashion but also in female entrepreneurship – a visionary who was much more than a great haircut.”

The V&A Museum, which recently hosted an exhibition about Dame Mary’s designs, tweeted: “It’s impossible to overstate Quant’s contribution to fashion.

“She represented the joyful freedom of 1960s fashion, and provided a new role model for young women.

“Fashion today owes so much to her trailblazing vision.”

Mary Quant
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Dame Mary pictured in 1970. Pic: AP

Jenny Lister, the curator of the Dame Mary Quant exhibition at the V&A, said the fashion designer “blasted through barriers of snobbery and tradition” and will “always represent the joyful freedom of fashion in the 1960s”.

“With her unique sense of humour, style, and determination to democratise and share the fun and creativity of her designs, she provided a new kind of role model for young women, creating a space for them to be themselves,” she said.

“She helped to define Britain’s global identity as a centre of streetstyle and innovation, with signature looks such as PVC macs, colourful tights, and the skinny-rib sweater.”

Dame Mary was the daughter of two Welsh teachers but was born in Blackheath, London, in 1930.

She gained a diploma in the 1950s in art education at Goldsmiths College, where she met her husband Alexander Plunket Greene, who later helped establish her brand.

She was married to him until his death in 1990. The couple had a son, Orlando, who was born in 1970.

In 2014, she was made a dame for services to British fashion in the Queen’s New Year Honours list.

The same year, Dame Mary, who named the mini-skirt after her favourite make of car, recalled its “feeling of freedom and liberation”.

File photo dated 01/08/67 of models showing off their footwear with fashion designer Mary Quant (kneeling)
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Dame Mary (foreground), with models showcasing her new shoe designs at a 1967 fashion show

She said: “It was the girls on King’s Road who invented the mini. I was making clothes which would let you run and dance and we would make them the length the customer wanted.

“I wore them very short and the customers would say, ‘shorter, shorter’.”

Dame Mary also revolutionised the high street with trousers for women, as well as accessories, tights and make-up, while using the daisy brand design that became synonymous with her creations.

Her clothes were popularised by models Twiggy, Jean Shrimpton and Pattie Boyd, and singer Cilla Black.

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Government accused of ‘cover-up’ over collapse of China spy trial

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Government accused of 'cover-up' over collapse of China spy trial

Kemi Badenoch has accused the government of a “cover-up” over the collapse of a China spy trial.

The Tory leader said there were a “lot of questions to answer” as to why the trial involving two men did not proceed.

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It is expected that ministers will have to answer questions about the case today, as parliament returns from recess.

In particular, there are questions around the role played by Jonathan Powell, the prime minister’s national security adviser, in the trial not going ahead.

Ministers have repeatedly said Mr Powell played no role in the decisions that led to the collapse of the trial – but Ms Badenoch said she was “worried that there is a cover up taking place”.

Speaking to broadcasters in Grantham today, Ms Badenoch said: “We will be making sure that we ask questions in parliament about exactly who knew what, where and when, but Jonathan Powell certainly has questions to answer.”

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She refuted suggestions from ministers that Mr Powell had had no involvement in the collapse of the trial, saying: “We are seeing information that contradicts that.

“That is why it is very important that the government come clean about who knew what, where, when, and why this has happened.”

Former parliamentary researcher Christopher Cash, 30, of Whitechapel, east London, and teacher Christopher Berry, 33, of Witney, Oxfordshire, were charged with passing politically sensitive information to a Chinese intelligence agent between December 2021 and February 2023. They have both denied the allegations.

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Over the past week, Sir Keir Starmer, his ministers and Mr Powell have faced accusations they were involved in the trial being dropped.

Last week Stephen Parkinson, the director of public prosecutions and the head of the Crown Prosecution Service, took the unusual step of sending MPs a letter to claim that the government repeatedly refused to provide evidence that China represented a national security threat at the time of the allegations.

Mr Parkinson said the CPS had tried “over many months” to get the evidence it needed to carry out the prosecution, but it had not been forthcoming from the government.

Downing Street also said today it was “entirely false” to suggest the government influenced the collapse of the case because of concerns Beijing could withdraw investment in the UK.

Asked about reports in the Sunday Times which suggested a decision was taken high up in government to abandon the case, the prime minister’s official spokesman told reporters: “It is entirely false. The CPS (Crown Prosecution Service) decision to drop the case was entirely a matter for the CPS.

“There was no role for any member of this government, no minister, or special adviser, to take any decision in relation to this case. That is entirely for the CPS.”

The government had argued that China needed to have been branded an “enemy” during the period it was accused of spying for the prosecution to go ahead – effectively blaming the previous Conservative government.

The Conservatives claim the government’s rationale is an excuse because it had said many times Beijing was a national security threat while it was in government.

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The prime minister has said he wanted to be “absolutely clear no ministers were involved” in any decisions relating to the case, but notably sidestepped answering whether Mr Powell was involved.

Bridget Phillipson, the education secretary, yesterday gave the government’s most definitive answer yet about whether Mr Powell was part of the reason the case was dropped weeks before they were set to go on trial.

Asked on Sunday Morning with Trevor Phillips if she could assure him that the national security adviser played no role in the decision, Ms Phillipson said: “Yes, I can give that assurance.

“We’re very disappointed that the CPS were not able to take forward the prosecution.”

The Liberal Democrats have called on the government to hold an inquiry into the collapse of the case.

Calum Miller, the party’s foreign affairs spokesman, said the case had “exposed appalling gaps in our government’s ability and willingness to challenge China’s espionage efforts”.

“We cannot let the government sweep this case under the rug in its efforts to cosy up to President Xi. An inquiry – preceded by rigorous scrutiny through parliament – would provide the answers the public deserves.”

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Tommy Robinson refused to give phone pin to police as he drove his Bentley to Benidorm, court hears

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Tommy Robinson refused to give phone pin to police as he drove his Bentley to Benidorm, court hears

Tommy Robinson refused to hand over his phone pin when police stopped his Bentley on the way to Benidorm, a court has heard.

He allegedly told officers “Not a chance, bruv” and said he was a journalist when they pulled him aside at the Channel Tunnel at Folkestone in July 2024.

Robinson, real name Stephen Yaxley-Lennon, is accused of “frustrating” counter-terrorism powers by refusing to give access to the phone.

He denies the charge.

The right-wing political activist was flanked by security guards as he arrived at Westminster Magistrates Court for the opening of the trial on Monday.

The 42-year-old faces three months in prison and/or a £2,500 fine if found guilty.

Robinson had £13,000 and 1,900 euros on him when he was stopped and told police he was going to Benidorm in Spain for a few days, said prosecutor Jo Morris.

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He allegedly refused to give the pin as he claimed the phone had sensitive “journalist material” on it.

He’s said to have told police: “It’s my work, I’m a journalist,” claiming it contained information about “vulnerable girls”.

The court heard Robinson was stopped in his silver Bentley SUV because he gave “short, vague replies” about what he was doing and “made no eye contact”.

PC Mitchell Thorogood told the court it was also “unusual” he bought tickets on the day rather than in advance and was in an expensive car not registered in his name.

Pic: PA
Image:
Pic: PA

When police took Robinson into an interview room and demanded his phone, he allegedly told them: “Not a chance bruv… you look like a c*** so you ain’t having it.”

Officers said they recognised Robinson when they stopped him and his lawyer, Alisdair Williamson KC, suggested the stop may have been “discriminatory” against his political beliefs.

Police can stop anyone at a UK port and hold them for six hours if they suspect they may be involved in planning or committing acts of terrorism.

They are legally obliged to answer questions and must give access to their electronic devices or face a criminal charge.

In a video on X before the hearing, Robinson said Elon Musk had “picked up the legal bill” for “this absolute state persecution”.

The case comes a month after Robinson led a huge rally in central London under the banner ‘Unite the Kingdom’.

The trial continues.

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Man arrested over 1994 murder of 13-year-old Lindsay Rimer

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Man arrested over 1994 murder of 13-year-old Lindsay Rimer

A man has been arrested on suspicion of the 1994 murder of 13-year-old Lindsay Rimer.

Police said the man was arrested at an undisclosed prison where he is serving a sentence for other offences.

The man, who is being interviewed today and tomorrow, is expected to be bailed and returned to prison while enquires continue.

Officers are also interviewing a number of potential witnesses in the Hebden Bridge and wider Halifax area.

Lindsay left her home to buy a box of corn flakes late during the evening of 7 November, 1994, but didn’t return home.

Her body was then found in a canal close to her home six months later.

Following today’s arrest, senior investigating officer, detective chief inspector James Entwistle, said: “We remain very firmly committed to doing everything we can to get justice for Lindsay, and to give her family the answers they still so desperately need after all these years.

Lindsay Rimer's body was found in a canal close to her home six months later. Pic: West Yorkshire Police
Image:
Lindsay Rimer’s body was found in a canal close to her home six months later. Pic: West Yorkshire Police

“The arrest we have made today comes as a result of our continued focus on progressing the investigation.

“We are keeping Lindsay’s family updated and, while we appreciate the understandable public interest that today’s arrest will bring, we do not anticipate any immediate developments at this stage.

“Although it is now more than thirty years since Lindsay was murdered, we remain convinced there is someone out there who has vital information that could finally help to ease her family’s pain, and we urge them do the right thing and tell us what they know.”

Anyone with further information has been urged to contact police by calling 101 quoting Operation Posemill, or sending a text or voicemail to 07707147314.

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