An activist fund manager has been building a stake in Dr Martens, the globally renowned bootmaker which has seen its valuation slump amid supply chain bottlenecks and a slowdown in US sales.
Sky News has learnt that Sparta Capital has quietly accumulated stock worth tens of millions of pounds in London-listed Dr Martens, and has been engaging with its board in an attempt to improve its financial and operating performance.
City sources said this weekend that Sparta – which was launched in 2021 by Franck Tuil, a longstanding executive at the prominent investor Elliott Management – was now a top ten shareholder in the footwear brand.
Dr Martens has seen its value plunge since its initial public offering two-and-a-half years ago.
At its listing price of 370p-a-share, the business was valued at £3.7bn, but in the past year it has been beset by challenges including deteriorating margins, weakening demand in some key markets and a troubled new US distribution centre.
On Friday, its shares closed at 146.1p, having nearly halved during the last year.
It now has a market capitalisation of just £1.46bn.
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The company is chaired by Paul Mason, a veteran of retailers and consumer brands, and run by chief executive Kenny Wilson, a former boss of Cath Kidston.
Mr Wilson has been in charge since July 2018, overseeing its transition from private to listed company.
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Image: The company has seen its value plunge since its initial public offering
Bankers and investors have been suggesting for months that Dr Martens’ weak share price performance has left it vulnerable to an activist investor or an opportunistic takeover approach.
‘Constructive activist’
Sparta styles itself as a “constructive activist” which engages with the boards of the companies it invests in, in order to aid value creation for shareholders.
At Elliott, Mr Tuil led its investments in AC Milan, the Serie A football club, and the French drinks giant Pernod Ricard.
His new fund’s most prominent appearance on the share register of a London-listed business came at Wood Group, the oil engineering company which engaged in a months-long takeover negotiation with Apollo Global Management, the private equity firm.
In May, Apollo walked away from a deal and Wood’s shares have slumped while the company has continued to refuse to buy back its shares.
One institutional investor suggested that Sparta was likely to have pressed Dr Martens to launch a buyback, with the company announcing a £50m initiative to do so alongside its results earlier this summer.
The fund manager is also said by City insiders to have urged the company’s board to focus on improving the execution of its strategy and addressing the problems at its US distribution site more robustly.
Permira, the buyout firm, retains a 39% stake in Dr Martens, with management owning close to 10%.
Cause for optimism
Investors were given some cause for optimism this month when Dr Martens said in a trading update that direct-to-consumer sales had seen strong growth in its European and Asia-Pacific regions, while revenues in the Americas were lower, albeit in line with expectations.
“Addressing our performance in this region remains our number one priority for FY24,” it said.
“In Americas [direct-to-consumer], the actions we’re taking are progressing to plan, and we continue to expect that it will take until the second half to see a meaningful improvement here.”
Dr Martens announced during the spring that Jon Mortimore would retire as finance chief after seven years in the role.
It is now conducting an external search for his successor.
Revenue up
One person close to the company said its revenue had virtually trebled in the five years since Mr Wilson took over, with earnings before interest, tax, depreciation and amortisation soaring during the same period from £48m to £245m.
A Dr Martens spokesman said: “We engage with all our shareholders on a frequent basis and met with Sparta as part of the regular roadshow after our full-year results.”
UK economic growth slowed as US President Donald Trump’s tariffs hit and businesses grappled with higher costs, official figures show.
A measure of everything produced in the economy, gross domestic product (GDP), expanded just 0.3% in the three months to June, according to the Office for National Statistics (ONS).
It’s a slowdown from the first three months of the year when businesses rushed to prepare for Mr Trump’s taxes on imports, and GDP rose 0.7%.
Caution from customers and higher costs for employers led to the latest lower growth reading.
This breaking news story is being updated and more details will be published shortly.
Prospective bidders for Claire’s British arm, including the Lakeland owner Hilco Capital, backed away from making offers in recent weeks as the scale of the chain’s challenges became clear, a senior insolvency practitioner said.
Claire’s has now filed a formal notice to administrators from advisory firm Interpath.
Administrators are set to seek a potential rescue deal for the chain, which has seen sales tumble in the face of recent weak consumer demand.
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Claire’s UK branches will remain open as usual and store staff will stay in their positions once administrators are appointed, the company said.
Will Wright, UK chief executive at Interpath, said: “Claire’s has long been a popular brand across the UK, known not only for its trend-led accessories but also as the go-to destination for ear piercing.
“Over the coming weeks, we will endeavour to continue to operate all stores as a going concern for as long as we can, while we assess options for the company.
“This includes exploring the possibility of a sale which would secure a future for this well-loved brand.”
The development comes after the Claire’s group filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy in a court in Delaware last week.
It is the second time the group has declared bankruptcy, after first filing for the process in 2018.
Chris Cramer, chief executive of Claire’s, said: “This decision, while difficult, is part of our broader effort to protect the long-term value of Claire’s across all markets.
“In the UK, taking this step will allow us to continue to trade the business while we explore the best possible path forward. We are deeply grateful to our employees, partners and our customers during this challenging period.”
Susannah Streeter, head of money and markets at Hargreaves Lansdown, said: “Claire’s attraction has waned, with its high street stores failing to pull in the business they used to.
“While they may still be a beacon for younger girls, families aren’t heading out on so many shopping trips, with footfall in retail centres falling.
“The chain is now faced with stiff competition from TikTok and Insta shops, and by cheap accessories sold by fast fashion giants like Shein and Temu.”
Claire’s has been a fixture in British shopping centres and on high streets for decades, and is particularly popular among teenage shoppers.
Founded in 1961, it is reported to trade from 2,750 stores globally.
The company is owned by former creditors Elliott Management and Monarch Alternative Capital following a previous financial restructuring.
Not since September 2022 has the average been at this level, before former prime minister Liz Truss announced her so-called mini-budget.
The programme of unfunded spending and tax cuts, done without the commentary of independent watchdog the Office for Budget Responsibility, led to a steep rise in the cost of government borrowing and necessitated an intervention by monetary regulator the Bank of England to prevent a collapse of pension funds.
It was also a key reason mortgage costs rose as high as they did – up to 6% for a typical two-year deal in the weeks after the mini-budget.
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Why?
The mortgage borrowing rate dropped on Wednesday as the base interest rate – set by the Bank of England – was cut last week to 4%. The reduction made borrowing less expensive, as signs of a struggling economy were evident to the rate-setting central bankers and despite inflation forecast to rise further.
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2:47
Bank of England cuts interest rate
It’s that expectation of elevated price rises that has stopped mortgage rates from falling further. The Bank had raised interest rates and has kept them comparatively high as inflation is anticipated to rise faster due to poor harvests and increased employer costs, making goods more expensive.
The group behind the figures, Moneyfacts, said “While the cost of borrowing is still well above the rock-bottom rates of the years immediately preceding that fiscal event, this milestone shows lenders are competing more aggressively for business.”
In turn, mortgage providers are reluctant to offer cheaper products.
A further cut to the base interest rate is expected before the end of 2025, according to London Stock Exchange Group (LSEG) data. Traders currently bet the rate will be brought to 3.75% in December.
This expectation can influence what rates lenders offer.