It’s dusk in Mudlada in Panypat, a city at the heart of India’s cow belt – a state at the centre of a wave of recent communal clashes in India.
Hindus consider cows to be sacred and some in Haryana are so desperate to protect them that they’re allegedly willing to kill.
At a watering hole, we meet a group of men who speak proudly about going on patrol to pull over Muslims they suspect of trying to transport and slaughter cows illegally. Violence, they say, is sometimes just necessary.
By night, we meet members of the Haryana Gau Raksha Dal, a group of so-called cow vigilantes who patrol highways trying to track down suspects.
Image: Cows are sacred to Hindus
They insist their patrols are co-coordinated with the police.
“We have weapons only for self-defence and to save the cows…every Indian, it is their moral duty to save the cows from [being slaughtered],” Naryan Deswal tells me.
He claims Muslims are trying to cast them as terrorists, when he is just a student trying to do his religious duty.
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Just a few hours away is Nuh, a Muslim majority district where deadly clashes took place in July.
Image: Burned out vehicles are pictured following clashes between Hindus and Muslims in Nuh district
Image: Cars destroyed during violence in Haryana
Image: Buses were also set alight during the violence
Hindu nationalists decided to run a religious parade through the area, but locals say a rumour that well-known cow vigilante Monu Manesar might be going lit the fuse.
He’s been accused of the involvement in the murder of two Muslim men, which he strongly denies. In Nuh, Muslims threw stones, cars were set on fire and six people died.
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Among them was Jaina Devi’s husband Shakti, who was Hindu.
She weeps in front of her house as she tells me: “Without your man, is there any life? We have four children. It’s all on me. There is no work.
“When he was here, he used to do labour and feed the children.
I ask her if she thinks it was provocative to hold a hardline Hindu nationalist march here.
“Yes, that is why the riots happened. Nothing like this has ever happened before,” she replies.
What followed though was familiar; bulldozers sent in by the BJP-ruled state to destroy Muslim-owned businesses it claimed were illegal.
A few minutes drive from Nuh is a mass of rubble with around 40 businesses destroyed.
Image: Harkesh Sharma, a Hindu shopkeeper in Haryana
Harkesh Sharma, a Hindu shopkeeper, says most of the businesses were Muslim-owned but had Hindu tenants. He says they were given no warning and that both communities were hit hard.
Under Hindu nationalist leaders, sectarian violence has flared in India. Critics of the government say the bulldozers have become a symbol of anti-Muslim hate, a vehicle for injustice.
Outside the mosque, one Muslim worshipper tells me, Hindu nationalism is intensifying a religious divide in the country.
“They are hating other communities, so this is disturbing to any nation,” he says.
“Because if hate will be a cure, the nation will not progress.”
Image: A worshipper at a mosque in Haryana
The violence in Nuh, he accepts, was in part carried out by Muslims. But he insists they were clearly provoked.
India’s prime minister, Narendra Modi, has strongly denied encouraging religious polarisation and anti-Muslim hate speech.
Recently in fact, he hailed India as the “mother of democracy”.
This week it hosts world leaders at the G20. Many members are looking to India as a powerful partner and counterbalance to China.
Modi has certainly embraced the image as a global mentor. The global demand for his leadership is a powerful force and a potentially powerful distraction from whatever is happening domestically.
Ten explosions have been heard near Srinagar International Airport in India-administered parts of Kashmir, officials have told Reuters news agency.
The blasts followed blackouts caused by multiple projectiles, which were seen in the sky above the city of Jammu earlier on Friday.
Explosions were also heard in the Sikh holy city of Amritsar, in the neighbouring Punjab state, according to Reuters.
An Indian military official told the agency that “drones have been sighted” and “they are being engaged”.
It comes as tensions between Indiaand Pakistanacross the line of control around the region of Kashmirhave boiled over this week, leading to fears of a wider conflict.
On Wednesday morning, Indiacarried out missile strikes in Pakistan and Pakistan-administered parts of the disputed region.
The government in India said it hit nine “terrorist infrastructure” sites, while Pakistan said it was not involved in the April attack and the sites were not militant bases.
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Explained: India-Pakistan conflict
Around 48 people have been killed since Wednesday, according to casualty estimates on both sides – which have not been independently verified.
India also suspended its top cricket tournament, the Indian Premier League, as a result of rising tensions, while the Pakistan Super League moved the remainder of its season to the United Arab Emirates.
Meanwhile, White House press secretary Karoline Leavitt said at a conference on Friday that the US is in constant contact with both India and Pakistan.
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Conclaves are famously unpredictable affairs – and once again the election of Cardinal Robert Francis Prevost as the new pope caught many by surprise.
The newly elected Pope Leo XIV won the consensus of the 133 cardinal electors after only four ballots – a fast process for a diverse college of cardinals.
Though his name had circulated among some Vatican watchers, other cardinals had emerged as clear front-runners, including Pietro Parolin – the Vatican’s number two who would have been the first Italian in almost 50 years to become pontiff – or Luis Tagle, a Filipino cardinal looking to become the first Asian pope.
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What are the conclave’s secrecy measures?
Instead, it was the first North American to win the highly secretive process.
So, what went on behind the closed doors of the Sistine Chapel?
Until Thursday lunchtime, Cardinal Parolin was ahead, gathering between 45 and 55 votes, sources say.
A substantial number, but well short of the 89 votes he needed for a two-thirds majority.
At this point, Cardinal Prevost had between 34 and 44 votes.
But as the Italian struggled to grow his support during the first three rounds of voting, he stepped down from the race, endorsing Prevost instead, Sky News understands.
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Who is Pope Leo?
An internal battle between Luis Tagle and Pablo Virgilio David – both cardinals hailing from Asia – cancelled out both of their chances.
And a contender from Africa – the most conservative sector of the church – was never likely for a conclave where the overwhelming majority of cardinals had been appointed by Francis, a progressive pontiff, sources say.
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Moment new pope emerges on balcony
An American pope has long been seen as highly improbable, given the geopolitical power of the US.
But Cardinal Prevost was able to draw from across the groups making up the electors: moderate US cardinals, South American cardinals and many European cardinals all coalesced around him.
Italian newspaper La Repubblica said Prevost “certainly attracted cross-party preferences, both ideologically and geographically”.
“In the conclave he was the least American of Americans: Born in Chicago, he lived 20 years in Peru,” the newspaper said.
It added: “As a man used to teamwork, Prevost appeared to many as the right man to make the papacy evolve into a more collegial form.”
Standing on Red Square, this was an intimidating sight, which felt much more like a celebration of war rather than peace.
I could feel the ground shake as the tanks rolled past, their caterpillar tracks on the ancient cobbles providing a deafening clatter.
The hairs on the back of my neck stood up in fear as the phalanxes of troops roared “Hurrah” in response to their commander in chief.
And the sight of combat drones being paraded on their launchers was actually quite sickening. Weapons that have been at the forefront of Russia’s invasion of Ukraine were paraded in a show of pomp and patriotism.
Image: Xi Jinping and Vladimir Putin watch the procession. Pic: Reuters
For the rest of Europe, the 80th anniversary of the end of the Second World War has been a celebration of peace, but this felt much more like a celebration of war.
And it wasn’t just military hardware on display here, but the very identity of modern Russia.
Image: Pic: Reuters
For this is a country that is now defined by its military and its memory. The glory and sacrifice of 1945 have been weaponised to give credence to Russia’s current course and to make people believe that victory is their right.
For Russians, it served as a rallying cry and there was applause when the troops who have fought against Ukraine marched past.
But for those watching in Kyiv and other European capitals, it was an overt warning that Moscow has no intention of backing down.
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Putin hails sacrifice of Russian troops
The parade was considerably larger in scale than in recent years, when units and hardware have been needed on the battlefield. I think it was a deliberate attempt to project an image of confidence, and so was Vladimir Putin‘s positioning of his guests.
China’s Xi Jinping was given a prime position on the Kremlin leader’s right-hand side. It was no surprise given the economic lifeline Beijing has provided, but it felt like a particularly pointed gesture to the West – that they were looking at a new world order.
Despite that appearance of confidence, there were signs of Moscow’s unease that the parade could be disrupted.
There were snipers on every rooftop. Security was extremely tight. And the mobile internet signal across the city centre was completely shut down for fear of Ukrainian drone attacks, meaning none of the international media that had gathered could broadcast any live transmissions.
After the parade finished, Putin saluted the crowds as they spontaneously erupted into rhythmic shouts of “Rus-si-ya” at the sight of him.
Another PR coup complete without interruption, he will have departed as a very happy man.