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If you have protected bike lanes in your city, then you have a great reason to get out on a bicycle or e-bike and replace many car miles with fun, fresh air-filled joy rides. If your streets are mostly devoid of bike lanes though, then you may find the idea of riding alongside cars to be a daunting scenario.

You should never push yourself to ride somewhere you don’t feel comfortable, but if you do want to improve your city riding confidence on public roads, then these tips may be helpful for you.

There are plenty of good cycling resources out there, but these are all tips and tricks I’ve personally picked up over many years of riding e-bikes in urban areas. They may not all apply to you in your area, but several of them likely will.

If you’d like to see these tips in action, I just posted a video where I demonstrate every single one of these tips, so make sure you check that out too for a demo.

amsterdam dutch insurance fat tire bikes

Tip 1: Avoid riding with cars unless necessary

This might sound like an odd tip for a guide on riding with cars, but hear me out. Just like in War Games, sometimes the only winning move is not to play. As much as Western car culture tries to deny it, the most dangerous thing on the road are cars themselves. They are the cause for nearly every cyclist death. The best way to get away with murder in the US (or many other countries) is to do it with a car.

So if you have bike lanes, please use them. If your city doesn’t have bike lanes, lobby your city council to install them.

This also doesn’t mean ride on the sidewalk, unless that’s the only safe option on the side of major roads with car traffic too fast to safely share (and in that case ride slowly and considerately around pedestrians). Instead, put an effort into finding a route that maximizes your use of safe, protected bike lanes whenever possible.

This isn’t meant to capitulate to dangerous drivers. In most areas, cyclists have every bit as much right to be on the road as drivers. But it doesn’t matter how right we are when Karen blows through us with a 6,000-pound SUV.

For those times when there just aren’t any good, safe bike lanes around, that’s what the rest of these tips are for.

Tip 2: Be visible on the road

Getting seen is half the battle. Compared to cars, we’re a tiny little meat sack on a thin-tubed bike. Drivers simply aren’t looking for us. So we have to make sure they see us.

For me, being visible comes down to two things: my physical appearance and my physical placement. For the first issue, bright-colored clothing, bright-colored bikes (my favorite), and bright front/rear/side LED lights are a great start. Some cyclists wear anti-high visibility clothing because they consider it to be a form of victim-blaming or putting the onus on us to be seen by drivers. Well, I’ve got a news flash for you: Drivers aren’t looking for us and so we need to make ourselves be seen. I usually don’t opt for high-vis clothing myself, but instead usually ride a high-vis bike with bright paint and lots of lighting. My personal bikes are often orange or yellow.

For the second issue, road placement is key. Where I live in Tel Aviv, bicycles and motorbikes roll up to the front of the red light and wait directly in front of the cars. They can’t not see us because we’re literally in front of their faces at the front of the line. When the light turns green, we all roll off first because we’re quicker and more agile, helping us get away from the cars who already know we’re there because they’ve been staring at our backs for the last 45 seconds.

In other cases when traffic backs up and I don’t have space to move around the cars due to narrow lanes (known as filtering), I pull directly in front of cars for the same reason: They see me. I’m just like every other vehicle on the road – I’m behind the car in front of me and in front of the car behind me. I can always see at least two of the mirrors of the car ahead of me, meaning they can see me too, and we’re all waiting there in a line like well-behaved citizens not trying to murder each other with our vehicles. If a car driver gets angry at seeing a cyclist in front of them while they are both standing still in traffic, then they should ask themselves why they harbor such hate in their heart. We’re all just waiting to go, man!

The last part of this is the idea of “owning your lane.” Check your local laws, but in many areas bicycles are treated like any other road-going vehicle when they’re on city streets. If I’m moving slower than the speed of traffic and there is enough space for cars to safely pass me, I’ll slide over to the right and let them do it. If there’s not enough space for a safe pass, I hang farther out towards the middle of my lane to prevent drivers from endangering me or anyone in the oncoming traffic lane by trying to squeeze through. There is nuance here though and it also depends on your local culture. Bikes are common here, so this is sort of understood. If the car behind you has a Texas license plate though, they may just decide the fastest way forward is through you, so use this concept with some discretion. There are times to own your lane and there are times to just pull the hell over and let a dangerous driver go past so they can go be dangerous somewhere else that isn’t around you.

Being visible to cars with bright lights and colors is a good start, but placing your bike in the proper spot in the lane to make yourself visible in traffic and at intersections is just as important.

Tip 3: Communicate effectively with drivers

There are several ways to communicate with drivers, but the best ways I have found are with your arms and your eyes, in that order. Riding in Amsterdam taught me how effective eye contact is with other cyclists, but car drivers seem to be simpler creatures that usually require a blunter approach. Broad arm gestures are best because they are highly visible.

Typical bicycle hand signals for turns are good (though I don’t use the left arm at a right angle pointing up to indicate a right turn because no one knows what that means). Point with your arm in the direction you plan to turn. But don’t just point – stick your arm way out there. Wave it a little if you have to. Get the driver’s attention with it. E-bikes with turn signals are cute, but they’re largely ineffective.

When I’m crossing in a crosswalk at an intersection, especially when it’s a side street connecting to a main street where drivers are only looking for cross car traffic, I will wave at the drivers with my hand straight up in the air, wait until they make eye contact with me, then I’ll proceed forward. I usually give them a thumbs up and a smile as I go by, reinforcing that smug little “I just saved that guy’s life” feeling they get from communicating with a cyclist and allowing him to pass. Positive reinforcement never hurts.

When you have to cross multiple lanes of traffic, usually to get into a left turn lane, that is where things get dicey. Again, I use very broad arm gestures that can’t be mistaken. You can see this clearly in my video at 3:53 where I make an obvious left turn signal to show a car coming up on my tail that I’ll be moving over, then I begin moving over to show him that I’m not asking for permission but rather informing him of the fact that I’m moving over, but I balance that with only making enough progress to ensure he starts braking from seeing me, just in case I need to bail back into my lane if he’s a jerk about it. Again, there’s a lot of nuance here and it will take some time and confidence to get practiced at these types of maneuvers. Cars have the luxury of throwing on a blinker and blindly swerving between lanes all willy-nilly. As cyclists, we still have to change lanes sometimes but we must be much more clear and calculated about it.

The last note on communication is about horns. I’ve gone back and forth about this. There’s no stock e-bike horn that is effective, at least that I’ve seen. They are mostly wimpy little noisemakers that sound like they came out of a toy store keyboard. I used an AirZounds airhorn for many years, and also rigged a motorcycle horn on my e-bike, both to great effect. But for the last several years I’ve been hornless. They can be effective, don’t get me wrong, but they can also be problematic. When you sound a horn, drivers look for other cars. They don’t expect you to be the horn owner (what with your silly little non-car thing you’re riding around on), and so sometimes a horn simply causes more momentary confusion. In an emergency, more confusion is often the last thing you want. So if you want to use a horn, use a loud one. But in most cases, an extra helping of foresight can prevent the need for getting to the point of using a horn on a bike.

Tip 4: Follow traffic laws (seriously)

This might either sound obvious or annoying, depending on your personal feelings on this, but I recommend following traffic laws to the best of your ability. The simple reason is not to protect others, but to protect yourself.

Car driver’s aren’t expecting you to blow through red lights or come the wrong way up a one-way street. For your own safety, following traffic laws gives you the best bet that drivers won’t be surprised by you.

That being said, there are few things sillier than a cyclist sitting at a red light for several minutes without a car going by. Traffic lights exist to prevent cars from plowing into each other. Purely cycle-only streets rarely have traffic lights because A) cyclists can communicate and figure it out between themselves, and B) getting hit by a bike is nearly immeasurably safer than getting hit by a car. That’s why rules like the “Idaho stop” exist in several places, allowing cyclists to treat red lights like stop signs and stop signs like yield signs. But in those cases, for your own safety it’s still critical that you actually confirm there’s no cross traffic before proceeding. It sounds obvious, but it bears repeating.

Tip 5: Be aware of your surroundings

Riding a bike around cars requires maintaining situational awareness. Mirrors are great, but I don’t use them much anymore because they make it harder to lane split by widening my handlebars too much (and the in-board ones just show me my shoulder). If you don’t lane split, a mirror is a great addition, though helmet mirrors can work for lane splitters too.

For everyone else, keep that head on a swivel. Shoulder checks are a must to know what’s going on around you. Use your eyes and your ears.

Also, for the love all things good in this world, take the dang ear phones off. If you want to wear them while riding on a bike path… well, that’s still a bad idea but it’s not as egregious. But when you’re on the road with cars, skip the ear phones. When I was in the army we weren’t allowed to wear two earbuds at any time. If we wore them at all, we had to always have one out to maintain awareness of our surroundings. That’s still how I wear them to this day. If I’m running, biking or anywhere in public, I’ve only got one ear bud in if I need them at all. When you’re sharing the road with 6,000-pound murder machines, you don’t need any additional handicaps like not being able to hear them coming.

Tip 6: Don’t get doored

Getting doored is when a car opens a door right in front of you, causing you to crash into it. It can and has been deadly.

It’s usually the case of someone exiting a parallel parked car but sometimes happens when a driver stops in the traffic lane to let a passenger get out.

The best way to avoid this is to maintain one door-width of distance when you pass parked cars. When this isn’t possible due to narrow lanes, I slow down enough that I can hopefully react with enough time.

xtracycle stoker electric cargo bike

Tip 7: Use appropriate speed

Don’t go too fast, but don’t go too slow, whenever possible.

One major advantage of e-bikes and bicycles in general is that they can flow so much faster than the snail’s pace of city traffic. But don’t overdo it when passing cars, since you never know when a driver is going to do something unexpected.

On the flip-side, sometimes faster bikes are actually safer, especially when they can better keep up with the speed of traffic. If cars are doing 25-30 mph (40-48 km/h), then I’m going to match that speed as long as road conditions are safe to do so. That means I can still own my lane instead of getting repeatedly passed on the side of the road.

Going faster means less reaction time though, so keep that in mind. Leave enough following distance when you’re going faster. It’s not just about preventing a car from slamming on their brakes and hitting you. I once ruined a really nice motor wheel in one of my e-bikes when I was following too close and couldn’t avoid hitting a sudden pot hole. Things sneak up on you much quicker at higher speeds.

Tip 8: Be predictable

Drivers are dumb. I’m sorry, but they just are. I know this because I occasionally drive and I am dumber during those minutes inside the car. There’s something about being inside a steel cage that puts people on varying levels of autopilot. When I’m on my bicycles and motorcycles, I’m much more aware of everything around me, but in a car I can still fall victim to that autopilot effect.

That means you have to make it easy for drivers by being predictable. Don’t make any sudden quick turns or swerve between lanes. Instead, make broad and purposeful movements that indicate clear direction. Don’t suddenly slam your brakes, even though you’ve got those awesome hydraulic stoppers. Make smoother stops that are easier for drivers to gauge your deceleration (and use hand signals if necessary).

Basically, don’t surprise drivers because they tend to spook easily, especially when their subconscious mind had all but ignored you as a cyclist.

Tip 9: Look for driver decision cues

This is another nuanced one, but it will develop for you over time. As I ride, I’m constantly looking for cues and scenarios that will impact drivers around me so that I can predict their behavior instead of reacting to it.

If I’m rolling up to an intersection, I’m scanning for blinkers but I’m also looking for car behavior indicative of a turn even without blinkers. If the car in front of me going through an intersection doesn’t have its turn signal on but suddenly moves a foot or two to the left, there’s a high chance it is making space to turn right. I’ll instantly slow down so they don’t right hook me into the great bike shop in the sky. (Side note to drivers, even BMW drivers: You should always use your turn signals. Just because “there aren’t any cars around” doesn’t mean there isn’t a bicycle that you didn’t see.)

I don’t just look at the road in front of me, I also look at what is going on a few cars in front of me so I know if the column of cars will need to brake shortly.

If I’m lane splitting or just riding on the right side of my lane and I see a motorcycle is about to pass on the left, I roll forward or backward to make sure the motorcycle doesn’t “push” the car into me.

If there is debris in the road, I look for which side of the car column it is closer to in order to know which way they’ll move around it.

At intersections, I look at a car’s hubcap to see if it is really stopped or is actually slowly crawling forward (spinning motion is easier to pick up on with a quick glance from a moving vantage point).

Anticipating the behavior of drivers can be difficult, but small cues like these can help.

Tip 10: Safety equipment

This one is unfortunately a bit controversial, but safety equipment is probably a good idea. I always wear a helmet at a bare minimum but also try to ride in pants and close-toed shoes. You may also want to consider gloves or protective pads, depending on your own personal preferences.

When I first started riding e-bikes around 2010 or so, I wore a full face motorcycle helmet. I still wear my motorcycle gear sometimes when riding out of class e-bikes that go extra fast, but I generally just wear a “normal” bike helmet most of the time. There are several good full face bicycle helmets now, often popular with downhill mountain bike riders, but I see more and more people wearing them in the city. It’s a great idea if you want your face to still look pretty in addition to keeping your brain from getting scrambled.

My personal thought process is that skin grows back, broken bones heal, brain injuries don’t heal. Ultimately, your level of safety equipment is a choice that only you can make. I’m amazed every time I’m in Amsterdam and I’m the only one wearing a helmet, but I understand that location and culture make a big difference in how much safety gear is advisable.

xtracycle stoker electric cargo bike
A helmet only works if it fits properly (kids) and is buckled (dad)

Bonus tip: Dust in your eyes

Here’s a little extra tip I’ve found that is super specific but I wind up using it a lot. If you don’t wear sun glasses, then clear safety glasses like from a machine shop are a good way to keep dust out of your eyes. I almost never have them when I need them though, so when I see that I’m about to pass through a dust cloud, I preemptively close one eye.

Sure, you briefly lose depth perception. But if you get dust in your eyes then the bodily reflex is to immediately slam shut your eyes. That’s… not good when you’re flying down the road at 28 mph (45 km/h). With one of my eyes already closed, if the other eye gets dust in it then I can close it and open my “spare” eye so I maintain vision. Then I have time to work on the blinking, watery mess of the other eye. It’s also useful for swarms of flying bugs like gnats.

Stay safe out there

Wow, I can’t believe you made it to the end. You either really care about bike safety or you’re my copy editor. Nice!

To put a pretty bow on this, the take-home message here should be that riding an e-bike can be a fast, fun, and efficient way to travel your city. But riding with cars is also fraught with potential danger. Until our cities do a better job building protected bike lanes, the best we can do is protect ourselves with the knowledge and skills needed to interact with those cars safely.

Stay safe out there and ride on!

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I tried the Strutt EV1 – the autonomous robot-chair that might redefine mobility

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I tried the Strutt EV1 – the autonomous robot-chair that might redefine mobility

I recently attended Strutt’s Demo Day to check out the company’s new EV1 mobility device, and even if you’ve never paid attention to electric wheelchairs before, you’ll still probably find this interesting.

The EV1 isn’t really a wheelchair in the traditional sense. It’s closer to an autonomous robot that just happens to take the form of a chair. Imagine a self-driving car fused with a humanoid robot, shrunk down to indoor-outdoor mobility scale. That’s the EV1. And after having spent some seat time in it, I can tell you that this technology is going to change lives.

This isn’t my normal scene – you’re much more likely to see me testing out wild new e-bikes or powerful electric motorcycles. But I was intrigued by the idea of a new type of electric mobility device that had the potential to change not just the way people get around, but the way they live. And I’m glad I followed that hunch and visited Strutt’s Demo Day.

If you want to experience the demos and live testing yourself, or rather vicariously through me, then check out my video below. It’s a fascinating experience.

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Then keep reading for my complete thoughts.

At its core, the EV1 is a mobility device that can drive itself and think for itself. But the level of tech onboard goes far beyond basic autonomy. It uses a full suite of sensors – lidar, vision cameras, ultrasonic sensors, and more – to constantly map its environment.

As the engineers explained to us, it’s actually a much trickier problem to solve than a self-driving car like Waymo, since self-driving cars generally stick to the simplified world of car lanes. But a mobility device needs to be able to autonomously navigate everything from a packed shopping mall to a grassy park path to the livingroom – all without accidentally driving itself down the stairs or over the family dog. That means the EV1 gets an array of overlapping sensors that would make a Tesla jealous.

And despite all that tech, the entire machine breaks down into five major pieces without tools, without unplugging wires, and without any fuss. In about 30 seconds, it’s ready to be lifted into the trunk of a car. Or for those with a vehicle large enough, it can just drive itself up the ramp and park itself in a vehicle all by itself.

It also includes built-in AI navigation. You can literally tell it where you want to go, like asking it to take you into the kitchen to grab a drink, and it will plan the route and drive you to your fridge. That may sound like a demo-party gimmick until you consider how transformative it could be for people who currently have to navigate narrow, cluttered, or inaccessible spaces by carefully inching forward with both hands on a joystick. Hands-free indoor navigation could be a game changer.

You can even tap a location on the live-view map shown on the display and the EV1 will just start taking you there, completely hands-free. Or you can summon it from another room, for example if you’re sleeping in bed and need the chair to come pick you up in the bedroom. This is autonomous driving on another level.

There’s also a mode called Co-Pilot, which lets the user take control to navigate themselves, but will constantly monitor for obstacles and make corrections if the user is about to hit something. For example, you can drive right through a narrow doorway without worrying about precision steering, since it won’t let you graze the edges of the door frame (and if you’ve ever seen the doorframes in the home of a wheelchair user, you’ll know what a game changer that would be).

Strutt demonstrated this mode by having a user blindfolded while driving through a curved hallway. He was simply pressing forward on the controls, but the EV1 smoothly followed a curved path on its own instead of letting him run into the wall when it began to curve. I tried it myself, and it’s uncanny how natural it feels.

But the EV1 isn’t limited to indoor environments. Strutt built in several clever innovations that make it surprisingly capable off pavement. There’s real suspension. The front wheels are actually dual wheels, helping them roll over gaps and rails such as those found in city trolley systems. Those same front wheels aren’t passive casters; they each have their own motors, giving the EV1 proper power steering instead of relying on tank-turning from the rear wheels. It drives like something purpose-built rather than hacked together. And that allows it to handle terrain and inclines not possible from other devices, such as off-camber turns that would send others sliding sideways down an incline.

During the demo, I asked if I could take the EV1 outside the fancy exhibition hall to see how it handled the real world. As I approached the door, trying to figure out how to open it while driving through at the same time, one of the Strutt staff told me, “Just ram it.”

I hesitated, worried I’d scratch up their expensive prototype, but he assured me it would be fine. Turns out, it was very fine. Then I remembered the clip in the presentation they shared of the EV1 towing a Tesla with a tow strap, so I guess the power was never really going to be an issue.

Speed-wise, Strutt had the units limited to 12 km/h (7.5 mph), but even at that speed they feel legitimately fast. Fast enough, in fact, that I switched into manual mode to really get a feel for it.

With a bunch of YouTubers flying around in fancy electric mobility devices, you can imagine that a drag race pretty quickly materialized. I won’t tell you who won, you’ll have to watch the video above to see. But let’s just say that my putting it in manual override mode to remove all the safety features temporarily might have been a dirty trick that gave me an advantage.

All the while, though, I found myself ping-ponging emotionally. On one hand, I’m having a blast riding a futuristic robot-chair hybrid. On the other hand, I’m constantly reminded that for many people, devices like this aren’t toys – they’re essential tools that allow them to navigate a world that wasn’t built for them. Many of the very people who helped Strutt beta test the device during development were there at the presentation, EV1), it was also a stark reminder that while I’m goofing off racing these things, this is technology meant to help people that need it in order to navigate a world not designed for them.

But maybe those two feelings don’t have to be in conflict. Why shouldn’t a device that empowers people also be enjoyable to use? Why can’t a life-changing device like this bring more than just mobility? Why can’t it actually be… fun? I’ve never looked at a mobility chair and thought it looked like a blast to use. This one genuinely is!

But the last bit here that will be critical, and something we just don’t yet know yet, is what it will cost. Considering traditional powered wheelchairs already run a few thousand dollars for relatively clunky designs, this level of advanced robotics likely won’t come cheap.

Strutt says pricing will be revealed early next year, and has just launched an early reservation program offering 35% off the first 200 units (more info in their Facebook group here). Hopefully the final price ends up within reach for the people who most need it. And like many early-stage technologies, costs will likely come down over time as production scales.

For now, though, the EV1 represents something new in mobility: a device that’s powerful, capable, intuitive, and – unexpectedly – pretty darn fun.

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Putin says Russia is willing to supply ‘uninterrupted’ fuel to India, as U.S. pressures New Delhi to cut back

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Putin says Russia is willing to supply 'uninterrupted' fuel to India, as U.S. pressures New Delhi to cut back

Russian President Vladimir Putin is welcomed by Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi upon arrival at the Palam Air Base in New Delhi, India December 4, 2025.

Grigory Sysoev | Via Reuters

Russian President Vladimir Putin has underlined Moscow’s willingness to provide “uninterrupted shipments of fuel” to India, as the U.S. pressures New Delhi to give up importing their oil.

Putin made the offer during a joint address with Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi on Friday, part of his first visit to the country since Russia’s full-scale invasion of Ukraine in 2022, which triggered widespread sanctions.

The sanctions forced Russia to seek new customers for its exports. India has become the second biggest buyer of Russian crude oil, after China, with a report Finland-based Centre for Research on Energy and Clean Air showing India bought 38% of Russian crude exports in October.

In October, President Donald Trump sanctioned two of Russia’s largest oil companies, Rosneft and Lukoil. This followed a tariff of 25% on India for buying Russian oil in August. But India has to walk a tightrope because it has close ties to the U.S. while also relying on Russia for fuel and access to military hardware.

Putin questioned U.S. pressure on India in an interview to an Indian television channel on Thursday.

The United States still buys nuclear fuel from Russia for its own nuclear power plants, Putin said in the interview, adding: “If the U.S. has the right to buy our fuel, why shouldn’t India have the same privilege?” 

While Trump has acknowledged that India has cut back its Russian oil imports, experts told CNBC that this may be a temporary trend.

Russian oil exports to China and India: Kpler expects short-term dip before normalizing

Apart from crude oil, Russia’s Rosatom is also delivering reactors and reportedly fuel for India’s Kudankulam nuclear power plant in Tamil Nadu, which has a combined capacity of 6000MW.

India and Russia have an energy partnership, the Russian president said, adding that Moscow had been is reliable supplier of “oil, gas, coal and everything that is required for the development of India’s energy”.

Last month, India announced a “historic deal” with Washington, in which Indian state-owned oil companies signed a one-year deal to import around 2.2 million tonnes per annum of liquefied petroleum gas from the U.S.

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From $189 a month: 5 of the best EV lease deals in December 

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From 9 a month: 5 of the best EV lease deals in December 

Yes, Virginia, there are still great EV lease deals to be had in December. Hyundai continues to offer EV leases for under $200 a month, and the BMW i4 can be leased for the same price it was when the federal tax credit was still in effect. With 2025 models disappearing fast, this might be your last shot to snag a year-end lease deal on an EV. Check out the standouts below.

Hyundai-discounting-EVs
Hyundai IONIQ 6 (Source: Hyundai)

2025 Hyundai IONIQ 6 lease from $189/month

The 2025 Hyundai IONIQ 6 remains a fantastic deal: the IONIQ 6 SE Standard Range can be leased from $189 per month for 24 months with a $3,999 due at signing (12,000 miles per year). Its effective cost is just $356, and this month’s IONIQ 6 SE lease includes $13,000 in lease cash that you can’t get elsewhere. The offer is good until January 2.

Our friends at CarsDirect report that the SEL trim is actually a better deal at $239 with $3,999 at signing, with an effective cost of $406. Even though its MSRP is over $7,700 higher than the SE, it’s just $50 more a month to lease. The SE Standard Range has a range of 240 miles, whereas other styles have a range of up to 342.

As usual, offers vary according to location, and this is a regional offer based in California.

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Click here to find a local dealer that may have the Hyundai IONIQ 6 in stock. –trusted affiliate link

Hyundai-IONIQ-5-lease-deal
Photo: Hyundai

2025 Hyundai IONIQ 5 lease from $189/month

Believe it or not, the 2025 Hyundai IONIQ 5 SE Standard Range RWD, which starts at $44,200, can still be leased through January 2 for $189 a month for 36 months (10,000 miles per year) with $3,999 due at signing. That works out to an effective monthly cost of about $300.

The IONIQ 5 SE RWD Standard Range offers an EPA-estimated 245 miles of range, and this particular offer is available in the Los Angeles and greater California metro areas (I’ve seen it at dealers in Carlsbad and Santa Monica, for example). And if you’re tempted by an upgrade, the SEL RWD trim is just $50 more per month under the same terms. 

Click here to find a local dealer that may have the Hyundai IONIQ 5 in stock. –trusted affiliate link

Subaru-EV-plans
2026 Subaru Solterra EV (Source: Subaru)

2026 Subaru Solterra 5 lease from $299/month

In several regions, the 2026 Subaru Solterra Premium can be leased for $299 per month for 36 months, with a down payment of $2,799 due at signing, resulting in an effective monthly cost of $377. That makes it $95 per month cheaper to lease than a 2026 Toyota bZ, which is $472. (These figures are for California.)

A $500 loyalty discount is available to returning lessees. It doesn’t require a trade-in and can be transferred to household members. If you factor in the loyalty discount, the Solterra’s effective cost drops to $363. The offer ends January 2.

Subaru’s advertised lease prices are based on 10,000 miles a year, but that’s changeable. However, a larger mileage allowance will lower the EV’s residual value, making it more expensive.

Click here to find a local dealer that may have the Subaru Solterra in stock. –trusted affiliate link

Ford Mustang Mach-e
2025 Ford Mustang Mach-E (Source: Ford)

2025 Ford Mustang Mach-E from $219/month

The 2025 Ford Mustang Mach-E can still be leased for $219 per month for 24 months with a $4,499 due at signing (10,500 miles per year) until January 5. In this configuration, the Mach-E has a range of up to 300 miles.

This is a regional offer for California, but the great deal isn’t limited to just that state. The example includes a total of $8,750 in lease cash; however, the catch is that if you opt for the lease cash, you have to decline the free home charger with installation or Ford’s $2,000 public charging credit.

Click here to find a local dealer that may have the Ford Mustang Mach-E in stock. –trusted affiliate link

Photo: BMW

2025 BMW i4 from $399/month

Remarkably, the 2025 BMW i4 is still leasing for the same price as it was when the federal tax credit was still in effect. In many regions, the eDrive40 can be leased for $399 for 36 months with $4,999 due at signing (10,000 miles per year). Its effective cost is just $538 per month, which is impressive when you consider that the i4’s retail price is over $60,000.

The offer, available until January 2, includes a $7,500 lease credit, and a $1,000 loyalty discount is also available for returning lessees. With the loyalty bonus, the i4’s effective monthly cost could be as low as $510.

In this configuration, the i4 has an EPA-estimated range of 318 miles. As before, BMW’s lease includes two years or 1,000 kWh of free charging with Electrify America.

Click here to find a local dealer that may have the BMW i4 in stock. –trusted affiliate link


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