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If you have protected bike lanes in your city, then you have a great reason to get out on a bicycle or e-bike and replace many car miles with fun, fresh air-filled joy rides. If your streets are mostly devoid of bike lanes though, then you may find the idea of riding alongside cars to be a daunting scenario.

You should never push yourself to ride somewhere you don’t feel comfortable, but if you do want to improve your city riding confidence on public roads, then these tips may be helpful for you.

There are plenty of good cycling resources out there, but these are all tips and tricks I’ve personally picked up over many years of riding e-bikes in urban areas. They may not all apply to you in your area, but several of them likely will.

If you’d like to see these tips in action, I just posted a video where I demonstrate every single one of these tips, so make sure you check that out too for a demo.

amsterdam dutch insurance fat tire bikes

Tip 1: Avoid riding with cars unless necessary

This might sound like an odd tip for a guide on riding with cars, but hear me out. Just like in War Games, sometimes the only winning move is not to play. As much as Western car culture tries to deny it, the most dangerous thing on the road are cars themselves. They are the cause for nearly every cyclist death. The best way to get away with murder in the US (or many other countries) is to do it with a car.

So if you have bike lanes, please use them. If your city doesn’t have bike lanes, lobby your city council to install them.

This also doesn’t mean ride on the sidewalk, unless that’s the only safe option on the side of major roads with car traffic too fast to safely share (and in that case ride slowly and considerately around pedestrians). Instead, put an effort into finding a route that maximizes your use of safe, protected bike lanes whenever possible.

This isn’t meant to capitulate to dangerous drivers. In most areas, cyclists have every bit as much right to be on the road as drivers. But it doesn’t matter how right we are when Karen blows through us with a 6,000-pound SUV.

For those times when there just aren’t any good, safe bike lanes around, that’s what the rest of these tips are for.

Tip 2: Be visible on the road

Getting seen is half the battle. Compared to cars, we’re a tiny little meat sack on a thin-tubed bike. Drivers simply aren’t looking for us. So we have to make sure they see us.

For me, being visible comes down to two things: my physical appearance and my physical placement. For the first issue, bright-colored clothing, bright-colored bikes (my favorite), and bright front/rear/side LED lights are a great start. Some cyclists wear anti-high visibility clothing because they consider it to be a form of victim-blaming or putting the onus on us to be seen by drivers. Well, I’ve got a news flash for you: Drivers aren’t looking for us and so we need to make ourselves be seen. I usually don’t opt for high-vis clothing myself, but instead usually ride a high-vis bike with bright paint and lots of lighting. My personal bikes are often orange or yellow.

For the second issue, road placement is key. Where I live in Tel Aviv, bicycles and motorbikes roll up to the front of the red light and wait directly in front of the cars. They can’t not see us because we’re literally in front of their faces at the front of the line. When the light turns green, we all roll off first because we’re quicker and more agile, helping us get away from the cars who already know we’re there because they’ve been staring at our backs for the last 45 seconds.

In other cases when traffic backs up and I don’t have space to move around the cars due to narrow lanes (known as filtering), I pull directly in front of cars for the same reason: They see me. I’m just like every other vehicle on the road – I’m behind the car in front of me and in front of the car behind me. I can always see at least two of the mirrors of the car ahead of me, meaning they can see me too, and we’re all waiting there in a line like well-behaved citizens not trying to murder each other with our vehicles. If a car driver gets angry at seeing a cyclist in front of them while they are both standing still in traffic, then they should ask themselves why they harbor such hate in their heart. We’re all just waiting to go, man!

The last part of this is the idea of “owning your lane.” Check your local laws, but in many areas bicycles are treated like any other road-going vehicle when they’re on city streets. If I’m moving slower than the speed of traffic and there is enough space for cars to safely pass me, I’ll slide over to the right and let them do it. If there’s not enough space for a safe pass, I hang farther out towards the middle of my lane to prevent drivers from endangering me or anyone in the oncoming traffic lane by trying to squeeze through. There is nuance here though and it also depends on your local culture. Bikes are common here, so this is sort of understood. If the car behind you has a Texas license plate though, they may just decide the fastest way forward is through you, so use this concept with some discretion. There are times to own your lane and there are times to just pull the hell over and let a dangerous driver go past so they can go be dangerous somewhere else that isn’t around you.

Being visible to cars with bright lights and colors is a good start, but placing your bike in the proper spot in the lane to make yourself visible in traffic and at intersections is just as important.

Tip 3: Communicate effectively with drivers

There are several ways to communicate with drivers, but the best ways I have found are with your arms and your eyes, in that order. Riding in Amsterdam taught me how effective eye contact is with other cyclists, but car drivers seem to be simpler creatures that usually require a blunter approach. Broad arm gestures are best because they are highly visible.

Typical bicycle hand signals for turns are good (though I don’t use the left arm at a right angle pointing up to indicate a right turn because no one knows what that means). Point with your arm in the direction you plan to turn. But don’t just point – stick your arm way out there. Wave it a little if you have to. Get the driver’s attention with it. E-bikes with turn signals are cute, but they’re largely ineffective.

When I’m crossing in a crosswalk at an intersection, especially when it’s a side street connecting to a main street where drivers are only looking for cross car traffic, I will wave at the drivers with my hand straight up in the air, wait until they make eye contact with me, then I’ll proceed forward. I usually give them a thumbs up and a smile as I go by, reinforcing that smug little “I just saved that guy’s life” feeling they get from communicating with a cyclist and allowing him to pass. Positive reinforcement never hurts.

When you have to cross multiple lanes of traffic, usually to get into a left turn lane, that is where things get dicey. Again, I use very broad arm gestures that can’t be mistaken. You can see this clearly in my video at 3:53 where I make an obvious left turn signal to show a car coming up on my tail that I’ll be moving over, then I begin moving over to show him that I’m not asking for permission but rather informing him of the fact that I’m moving over, but I balance that with only making enough progress to ensure he starts braking from seeing me, just in case I need to bail back into my lane if he’s a jerk about it. Again, there’s a lot of nuance here and it will take some time and confidence to get practiced at these types of maneuvers. Cars have the luxury of throwing on a blinker and blindly swerving between lanes all willy-nilly. As cyclists, we still have to change lanes sometimes but we must be much more clear and calculated about it.

The last note on communication is about horns. I’ve gone back and forth about this. There’s no stock e-bike horn that is effective, at least that I’ve seen. They are mostly wimpy little noisemakers that sound like they came out of a toy store keyboard. I used an AirZounds airhorn for many years, and also rigged a motorcycle horn on my e-bike, both to great effect. But for the last several years I’ve been hornless. They can be effective, don’t get me wrong, but they can also be problematic. When you sound a horn, drivers look for other cars. They don’t expect you to be the horn owner (what with your silly little non-car thing you’re riding around on), and so sometimes a horn simply causes more momentary confusion. In an emergency, more confusion is often the last thing you want. So if you want to use a horn, use a loud one. But in most cases, an extra helping of foresight can prevent the need for getting to the point of using a horn on a bike.

Tip 4: Follow traffic laws (seriously)

This might either sound obvious or annoying, depending on your personal feelings on this, but I recommend following traffic laws to the best of your ability. The simple reason is not to protect others, but to protect yourself.

Car driver’s aren’t expecting you to blow through red lights or come the wrong way up a one-way street. For your own safety, following traffic laws gives you the best bet that drivers won’t be surprised by you.

That being said, there are few things sillier than a cyclist sitting at a red light for several minutes without a car going by. Traffic lights exist to prevent cars from plowing into each other. Purely cycle-only streets rarely have traffic lights because A) cyclists can communicate and figure it out between themselves, and B) getting hit by a bike is nearly immeasurably safer than getting hit by a car. That’s why rules like the “Idaho stop” exist in several places, allowing cyclists to treat red lights like stop signs and stop signs like yield signs. But in those cases, for your own safety it’s still critical that you actually confirm there’s no cross traffic before proceeding. It sounds obvious, but it bears repeating.

Tip 5: Be aware of your surroundings

Riding a bike around cars requires maintaining situational awareness. Mirrors are great, but I don’t use them much anymore because they make it harder to lane split by widening my handlebars too much (and the in-board ones just show me my shoulder). If you don’t lane split, a mirror is a great addition, though helmet mirrors can work for lane splitters too.

For everyone else, keep that head on a swivel. Shoulder checks are a must to know what’s going on around you. Use your eyes and your ears.

Also, for the love all things good in this world, take the dang ear phones off. If you want to wear them while riding on a bike path… well, that’s still a bad idea but it’s not as egregious. But when you’re on the road with cars, skip the ear phones. When I was in the army we weren’t allowed to wear two earbuds at any time. If we wore them at all, we had to always have one out to maintain awareness of our surroundings. That’s still how I wear them to this day. If I’m running, biking or anywhere in public, I’ve only got one ear bud in if I need them at all. When you’re sharing the road with 6,000-pound murder machines, you don’t need any additional handicaps like not being able to hear them coming.

Tip 6: Don’t get doored

Getting doored is when a car opens a door right in front of you, causing you to crash into it. It can and has been deadly.

It’s usually the case of someone exiting a parallel parked car but sometimes happens when a driver stops in the traffic lane to let a passenger get out.

The best way to avoid this is to maintain one door-width of distance when you pass parked cars. When this isn’t possible due to narrow lanes, I slow down enough that I can hopefully react with enough time.

xtracycle stoker electric cargo bike

Tip 7: Use appropriate speed

Don’t go too fast, but don’t go too slow, whenever possible.

One major advantage of e-bikes and bicycles in general is that they can flow so much faster than the snail’s pace of city traffic. But don’t overdo it when passing cars, since you never know when a driver is going to do something unexpected.

On the flip-side, sometimes faster bikes are actually safer, especially when they can better keep up with the speed of traffic. If cars are doing 25-30 mph (40-48 km/h), then I’m going to match that speed as long as road conditions are safe to do so. That means I can still own my lane instead of getting repeatedly passed on the side of the road.

Going faster means less reaction time though, so keep that in mind. Leave enough following distance when you’re going faster. It’s not just about preventing a car from slamming on their brakes and hitting you. I once ruined a really nice motor wheel in one of my e-bikes when I was following too close and couldn’t avoid hitting a sudden pot hole. Things sneak up on you much quicker at higher speeds.

Tip 8: Be predictable

Drivers are dumb. I’m sorry, but they just are. I know this because I occasionally drive and I am dumber during those minutes inside the car. There’s something about being inside a steel cage that puts people on varying levels of autopilot. When I’m on my bicycles and motorcycles, I’m much more aware of everything around me, but in a car I can still fall victim to that autopilot effect.

That means you have to make it easy for drivers by being predictable. Don’t make any sudden quick turns or swerve between lanes. Instead, make broad and purposeful movements that indicate clear direction. Don’t suddenly slam your brakes, even though you’ve got those awesome hydraulic stoppers. Make smoother stops that are easier for drivers to gauge your deceleration (and use hand signals if necessary).

Basically, don’t surprise drivers because they tend to spook easily, especially when their subconscious mind had all but ignored you as a cyclist.

Tip 9: Look for driver decision cues

This is another nuanced one, but it will develop for you over time. As I ride, I’m constantly looking for cues and scenarios that will impact drivers around me so that I can predict their behavior instead of reacting to it.

If I’m rolling up to an intersection, I’m scanning for blinkers but I’m also looking for car behavior indicative of a turn even without blinkers. If the car in front of me going through an intersection doesn’t have its turn signal on but suddenly moves a foot or two to the left, there’s a high chance it is making space to turn right. I’ll instantly slow down so they don’t right hook me into the great bike shop in the sky. (Side note to drivers, even BMW drivers: You should always use your turn signals. Just because “there aren’t any cars around” doesn’t mean there isn’t a bicycle that you didn’t see.)

I don’t just look at the road in front of me, I also look at what is going on a few cars in front of me so I know if the column of cars will need to brake shortly.

If I’m lane splitting or just riding on the right side of my lane and I see a motorcycle is about to pass on the left, I roll forward or backward to make sure the motorcycle doesn’t “push” the car into me.

If there is debris in the road, I look for which side of the car column it is closer to in order to know which way they’ll move around it.

At intersections, I look at a car’s hubcap to see if it is really stopped or is actually slowly crawling forward (spinning motion is easier to pick up on with a quick glance from a moving vantage point).

Anticipating the behavior of drivers can be difficult, but small cues like these can help.

Tip 10: Safety equipment

This one is unfortunately a bit controversial, but safety equipment is probably a good idea. I always wear a helmet at a bare minimum but also try to ride in pants and close-toed shoes. You may also want to consider gloves or protective pads, depending on your own personal preferences.

When I first started riding e-bikes around 2010 or so, I wore a full face motorcycle helmet. I still wear my motorcycle gear sometimes when riding out of class e-bikes that go extra fast, but I generally just wear a “normal” bike helmet most of the time. There are several good full face bicycle helmets now, often popular with downhill mountain bike riders, but I see more and more people wearing them in the city. It’s a great idea if you want your face to still look pretty in addition to keeping your brain from getting scrambled.

My personal thought process is that skin grows back, broken bones heal, brain injuries don’t heal. Ultimately, your level of safety equipment is a choice that only you can make. I’m amazed every time I’m in Amsterdam and I’m the only one wearing a helmet, but I understand that location and culture make a big difference in how much safety gear is advisable.

xtracycle stoker electric cargo bike
A helmet only works if it fits properly (kids) and is buckled (dad)

Bonus tip: Dust in your eyes

Here’s a little extra tip I’ve found that is super specific but I wind up using it a lot. If you don’t wear sun glasses, then clear safety glasses like from a machine shop are a good way to keep dust out of your eyes. I almost never have them when I need them though, so when I see that I’m about to pass through a dust cloud, I preemptively close one eye.

Sure, you briefly lose depth perception. But if you get dust in your eyes then the bodily reflex is to immediately slam shut your eyes. That’s… not good when you’re flying down the road at 28 mph (45 km/h). With one of my eyes already closed, if the other eye gets dust in it then I can close it and open my “spare” eye so I maintain vision. Then I have time to work on the blinking, watery mess of the other eye. It’s also useful for swarms of flying bugs like gnats.

Stay safe out there

Wow, I can’t believe you made it to the end. You either really care about bike safety or you’re my copy editor. Nice!

To put a pretty bow on this, the take-home message here should be that riding an e-bike can be a fast, fun, and efficient way to travel your city. But riding with cars is also fraught with potential danger. Until our cities do a better job building protected bike lanes, the best we can do is protect ourselves with the knowledge and skills needed to interact with those cars safely.

Stay safe out there and ride on!

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Chinese quality: BYD launches ‘Zero Defects’ as it crosses 113 GWh in Q3

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Chinese quality: BYD launches 'Zero Defects' as it crosses 113 GWh in Q3

This week, BYD crossed a major manufacturing milestone as its battery production crossed 113 GWh in the first three quarters of 2025 – but instead of celebrating, the company is doubling down with a new “Zero Defects” initiative to bring battery quality to an even higher level.

CarNewsChina reports that the new “Zero Defects” plan at BYD was launched internally at the start of Q3, with a focus on minimizing manufacturing defects across all stages of the battery’s life, from the manufacturing line to the end user.

The initiative coincides with BYD’s growing role as a battery supplier to other automakers and its expanding battery energy storage system (BESS) business, which are giving BYD both an international footprint and global benchmarks.

In its ongoing bid to prove itself even further in the global battery market, BYD will reportedly emphasize operational efficiency, error reduction, and standardization across manufacturing, process control, and customer service, with the end goal believed to be, “management practices comparable to those of Toyota.”

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BYD on a charge


BYD-EV-growth
Sealion 7 midsize electric SUV; by BYD.

The Chinese automaker seems to be going from strength to strength in 2025, having overtaken EV sales leader Tesla in China back in June and repeating the trick again by overtaking Tesla sales in Europe in August.

Combine those EV sales with the fact that its domestic traction battery production reached 113.42 GWh in just the first three quarters of the year (with 23.65 GWh, or ~20%, being supplied to outside customers – including Tesla), and you might agree that betting against BYD seems to be a bad idea.

Note that BYD has not released official details regarding performance metrics or milestones for its new Zero Defects goal, but the message is clear: BYD plans to keep getting better.

SOURCE: CarNewsChina; images via BYD.


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DOT opens public comment on plan to hike fuel costs during affordability crisis

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DOT opens public comment on plan to hike fuel costs during affordability crisis

This week, the US Environmental Protection Agency proposed a plan to make cars less efficient when Americans are already paying record-high energy bills during an affordability crisis fueled by tariff-driven inflation. That plan is now up for public comment.

Since the beginning of this year, the occupants of the White House have been on a mission to raise costs for Americans.

This mission has encompassed many different moves, most notably through unwise tariffs.

But another effort has focused on changing policy in a way that will raise fuel costs for Americans, adding to already-high energy prices.

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This specific rollback focuses on a rule passed under President Biden which would save Americans $23 billion in fuel costs by requiring higher fuel economy from auto manufacturers. By making cars use less fuel on average, Americans would not only save money on fuel, but reduce fuel demand which means that prices would go down overall.

The effort to roll back this rule was initially announced on the first day that Sean Duffy started squatting in the head office of the Department of Transportation. Duffy notably earned his transportation expertise by being a contestant on Road Rules: All Stars, a reality TV travel game show.

Then in June, Duffy formally reinterpreted the Corporate Average Fuel Economy (CAFE) standard, claiming falsely that his department does not have authority to regulate fuel economy.

Republicans in Congress even got into effort to raise your fuel costs, as part of their ~$4 trillion giveaway to wealthy elites included a measure to make CAFE rules irrelevant by setting penalties for violating them to $0. In addition, it eliminated a number of other energy efficiency and domestic advanced manufacturing incentives.

Duffy’s department then told automakers that they would not face any fines retroactively to 2022, which saved the automakers (mostly Stellantis) a few hundred million dollars and cost American consumers billions in fuel costs.

Then, finally, earlier this week, Duffy formally announced the proposed changes to the CAFE rules, lowering the required fuel economy for 2022-2031 model year vehicles, even despite all of the other changes in trying to make the rules unenforceable.

The theory behind this would be to make it harder to later enforce the rules, and to allow automakers to get off with more pollution, and to increase fuel demand and fuel prices for longer until a real government returns to power and starts doing its job to regulate pollution.

Specifically, the announcement changes the planned 2031 50.5 mpg target to 34.5 mpg, cutting vehicle efficiency by nearly a third, which will lead to a commensurate increase in your fuel costs (note: CAFE numbers are calculated differently, and tend to look higher than actual mpg numbers).

The regulation even explicitly describes ballooning vehicle sizes in a positive light, which is ironic given that at the same event, Mr. Donald Trump, the convicted felon who directed this change to begin with, also quipped that he wants to bring tiny Japanese kei cars to the US, displaying his lack of knowledge of why he was even in the room to begin with.

If President Biden’s regulations were retained through 2031, average fuel economy would have tripled since the 1970s, when CAFE targets were first put in place. In the last two decades, CAFE targets helped drive a 30% improvement in average fuel economy, saving an average of $7,000 over the lifetime of an average vehicle – and they did this without increasing vehicle prices.

Despite that the dictatorial regime proposing such braindead rule changes would rather just push its oil company funders’ demands through without having to consult the people it will harm, these rulemaking procedures are still governed by the Administrative Procedures Act. This law requires the government to accept public comments and to take into account and respond to substantive comments posted to the docket related to the rulemaking procedure.

And so, you can now leave your own comments on whether or not you think this plan to make cars larger, more dangerous and less efficient, thus raising your fuel costs, is a good one or not.

Comments can be submitted through this link. Information for the docket can be found at docket number NHTSA-2025-0491. The comment period ends on Jan 20 at 2026 at 11:59 PM EST (yes, that superfluous “at” is from the NHTSA’s docket, wonderful attention to detail from the fake lawyers running the place).

Another of the administration’s recent plans to raise your fuel costs, the EPA’s plan to increase gas prices by $.76/gallon by deleting climate science, was recently posted and received 568,326 comments, the vast majority of which opposed the plan. Public comment on that plan is closed now and the EPA is sifting through the mountain of comments made, trying to figure out a way to kill people and raise energy costs in service of their oil masters despite massive public opposition in a country that is supposed to be a democracy.

That plan also received a virtual public hearing where commenters could call in with their thoughts, held over a few days, during which a vast majority opposed the plan. We’re not aware of a similar hearing for this plan yet, but we’ll let you know if we hear about one.

And despite many readers’ probable initial reaction that the unqualified dictator pushing these plans won’t be interested in hearing your comments, it should be noted that improper rulemaking has and will continue to result in certain rules being thrown out in court. There is a legally required method to how the government makes rules, and courts can throw out regulations that do not follow the proper method. Part of that method includes seeking public feedback, and this is your chance to enter your thoughts into the official government record on this regulation specifically.

Public comments on this ridiculous plan are open through Jan 20, 2026 at 11:59 PM EST, 8:59PM PDT. Comments can be submitted here. In case you get lost, the docket code is NHTSA-2025-0491. DOT/NHTSA has to respond to legitimate concerns made during public comment periods or else the rule could be voided (as was the case for 90% of the cases the NRDC challenged last go around), so the more substantive your comment, the better.


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I got a 5-ton electric tractor from China. Here’s what showed up

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I got a 5-ton electric tractor from China. Here’s what showed up

When a 40-foot container rolled up to my property and the doors swung open, I finally got to meet a machine I’d only last seen half-finished on a factory floor in China. Sitting up front, nose practically pressed against the container doors, was my new 10,000-plus-pound (4,700 kg) electric tractor: the NESHER L3000 wheel loader.

Technically, it’s part of a class known as articulating front loaders, a subset of the broader tractor family, and not a farm tractor like you may have seen before (though I’m working on a farm tractor!).

But if you need to lift, pull, drag, grapple, dump, drill, or dig things around your property, this is what these types of machines were made for.

And as wild as it was to see that giant electric machine roll down the ramps, it turns out that wasn’t the only “new toy” I got.

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Soon after the arrival of the big guy, I had a second surprise to unload: a slightly smaller, much more approachable NESHER L2500, tipping the scales at a more manageable 6,400 lb (2,900 kg).

NESHER L3000 with the pallet fork attachment mounted

Meet the 5-ton lb NESHER L3000

Unloading these things and getting to know them well has been an incredibly fun process, and one that I love getting the chance to share in videos and articles like this one.

The L3000 is the biggest machine I’ve ever brought into the NESHER lineup, and it’s very much a “because we can” kind of loader. It’s rated for a 3,000 lb (1,360 kg) lift capacity (and it’s underrated), but that stat doesn’t really hit home until you see what that looks like in real life.

Right away I put it to work moving all sorts of heavy equipment around the property, from lifting a wooden shipping crate with an entire mini-excavator inside, to carrying around a full-size golf cart in a steel shipping crate as if it was a grocery bag, to even pushing shipping containers around the property and into position (I’ve been welding on roof structures between them to create some nice covered parking).

NESHER L3000 moving my solar shipping container into position around the pasture

That last one is the moment you really feel the mass working in your favor. A 10,000 lb electric machine has the kind of traction and grunt where you barely notice the load. A tiny press on the accelerator and heavy objects just start moving.

I used a set of EZYwheels on one end of a shipping container and simply lifted the other end using the L3000’s pallet forks, allowing me to push and pull a roughly 5,000 lb (2,250 kg) solar shipping container that I built last year around a grassy pasture as if I were playing with toy cars in a sandbox.

We even used it to right a tree that had blown over in the last hurricane, but was still alive and lying on its side. Without the slightest protest, the L3000 pulled it vertically and let us get some bracing under it so the root structure could regrow and anchor it back the way nature intended.

NESHER L2500 with a bucket full of logs

Under the floorboards is a 40 kWh AGM battery pack, good for around 6 hours of typical use on a charge. This isn’t meant for 12-hour highway construction shifts… it’s designed for landowners, homesteaders, small businesses, and anyone with a list of jobs that can be knocked out in a few focused hours.

Charging is fairly straightforward and designed to be done anywhere: it uses standard North American 120VAC outlets, with twin onboard chargers to feed that big pack from a pair of household circuits overnight. The onboard chargers can accept 240V, but the 120V option allows for Level 1 charging anywhere a typical electrical outlet can be found.

I get a lot of questions about batteries, and one reason I liked the AGMs over lithium iron phosphate batteries is the ease of future work. While not rivaling LFP charge cycles, these should last for many years (my oldest NESHER tractors are around 2.5 years old and showing very minimal battery degradation), but when the batteries do eventually need to be replaced, AGM modules can be found much more easily and from local suppliers, even big box stores like Tractor Supply or Home Depot. They can also be removed one pack at a time by a single (strong) individual. Other advantages include better cold-weather performance without needing battery heaters, extra weight that serves as ballast and increases the lifting capacity of the machine, and lower total vehicle cost. Of course there are different unique advantages to LFP batteries, and like everything in life, there are tradeoffs, but this seems to be a good balance so far in our experience.

NESHER L2500 with the excavator attachment mounted

But wait… there’s a “smaller” one too

As fun as a 10,000 lb loader is, it’s honestly more machine than a lot of people want to maneuver around their property. That’s where my second new arrival comes in.

This smaller beast, my NESHER L2500, is rated for a 2,500 lb (1,140 kg) lift but weighs in at roughly 6,400 lb (2,900 kg). On paper, that sounds like a small step down from the L3000. In practice, it feels like a different category: more compact, more nimble, and more approachable for someone who doesn’t want their “yard tool” to weigh nearly as much as a school bus. It’s also even quieter than the L3000, as it uses a dedicated electric motor on each axle instead of a larger mid-mounted motor with dual drive shafts like the L3000.

Between the two, I actually prefer it. The machine has nearly as much capability, but is around 1/3 lighter and thus easier to maneuver and operate.

We’ve already used the L2500 for some creative jobs around the place. At one point, my dad and I basically turned it into a freight elevator, raising an old couch more than 10 feet up to a mezzanine of his shop. Another day, we used it to drag a massive tree trunk out of a pond after a hurricane turned that long-leaning tree into a floating navigation hazard. The loader treated that water-logged tree trunk like a toothpick.

The L2500 shares the same concept as the bigger machine: enclosed cab and heater, around 6 hours of use from a 25 kWh battery, easy residential charging, and enough lift and pull to make most homesteader and small farm tasks feel trivial. For a lot of people, this is the sweet spot. And in fact, I actually prefer it at this size. The L3000 is fun but more machine than most people need. The L2500 seems like the best balance of power, size, and value.

Left to right: NESHER L3000, NESHER L2500, NESHER L1400, and NESHER L880

Attachments turn them into Swiss Army tractors

All of the loaders use quick-hitch front attachments, which is where things get fun. From the operator’s seat, you can drive up to a bucket, drop it, roll right into a pallet fork, and latch it without climbing down every time.

For attachments with their own hydraulics, like augers, grapples, and the excavator-style digging attachment, you do still have to hop out to connect hoses, but the tradeoff is big. With the excavator attachment on the larger loaders, you can dig down around 6 feet (nearly 2 meters). That’s a major upgrade compared to my smaller NESHER machines that give closer to about 3.5 feet (around 1 meter) of digging depth from their excavator attachments. That covers a surprising amount of real-world work: laying pipe, planting trees, digging drainage, and shaping land.

That’s the real magic with these: you don’t need separate dedicated machines for every task. One electric loader, a handful of attachments, and suddenly you’re lifting shipping containers, pulling trees upright, digging trenches, moving mountains of dirt or mulch, and doing oddball jobs you never expected to do with a conventional tractor.

Adjusting the width of the heavy forks is sometimes helped with a kick or two

Why go electric for heavy equipment?

Regular Electrek readers will already know the big advantages of going electric, and our own Jo Borràs has often covered some of the most interesting new additions to the world of electric heavy equipment from trucking to tractors to tools, but electrification is still a niche part of the industry.

And while I’ve talked a lot about what these machines can do, a question I still often get from curious neighbors and onlookers is, “Why electric?”

Part of it is maintenance. A diesel loader has a lot of ways to ruin your day: fuel system, injectors, emissions equipment, warm-ups, oil changes, filters, and so on. An electric drivetrain is basically a cordless drill scaled up: battery, motor, controller. The maintenance you do have – hydraulic oil, greasing the joints – is for the mechanical bits, not the engine. The powertrain, historically the worst part of owning any vehicle, just quietly works.

Then there’s sound. When you’re walking around an electric loader, you hear your own footsteps in the dirt as much as you hear the machine. You can talk to someone standing nearby without shouting over a clattering diesel engine. As the operator, you can talk to your crew or your family members in the yard without needing walkie-talkies. The reduced noise means you can even work around animals and livestock without spooking them. I can work right alongside the cows in my family’s pasture without bothering them. It’s just a calmer experience.

Health is another big one. If you spend hours a day sitting a few feet from a diesel tailpipe, that exhaust is going into your lungs. Diesel particulates are not something you want to marinate in for years. Electric loaders eliminate that constant stream of fumes.

And of course, there’s the environmental angle too. If you’re working the land because you love it and want to live with it, not just from it, then it feels a little odd to be coating it in exhaust and oil. Electric loaders don’t drip fuel, don’t belch smoke, and don’t add to greenhouse emissions the same way, especially if you’re charging from clean energy.

Towing out my dad’s currently-not-running diesel farm tractor

Final thoughts

I’ve talked at length about this process before, but for those who may be new around here, allow me to provide full disclosure: these are my machines. I helped design them, I walk the factory floor where I build them in China, I import them, I maintain the local spare parts warehouse, I wrote the operator’s manual, and I spend a ridiculous amount of time thinking about how to make electric machinery like this more accessible to average folks who want to manage their land instead of just for large contractors and businesses who can afford the six-figure machines from the big guys.

I’m proud of the work that has gone into getting them to this point, and of the fact that they are starting to become available in more countries (the first NESHER dealer in Canada just opened recently and a few other countries are in the works).

As a society, even a well-intentioned one looking for electric alternatives to replace our polluting legacy machines, we often spend so much time focusing on flashier vehicles, such as electric cars, trucks, and even bikes and scooters, that it’s easy to forget how much diesel is idling away on farms, work sites, and homesteads. Machines like these show that electric isn’t just possible in this space, but that it can actually be better, quieter, cleaner, and easier to live with.

Sure, that big NESHER L3000 loader isn’t for everyone. Most people would probably be better served by the L2500 or even the smaller L1400 or L880. And if you’re running round-the-clock road crews, you’ll still have a diesel fleet for a while, as there aren’t many electric machines that can do 16 or 20-hour shifts yet.

But for the growing number of landowners, small contractors, and homesteaders who want serious capability without the headaches and fumes of diesel, electric loaders are finally becoming a real option.

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