Connect with us

Published

on

If you have protected bike lanes in your city, then you have a great reason to get out on a bicycle or e-bike and replace many car miles with fun, fresh air-filled joy rides. If your streets are mostly devoid of bike lanes though, then you may find the idea of riding alongside cars to be a daunting scenario.

You should never push yourself to ride somewhere you don’t feel comfortable, but if you do want to improve your city riding confidence on public roads, then these tips may be helpful for you.

There are plenty of good cycling resources out there, but these are all tips and tricks I’ve personally picked up over many years of riding e-bikes in urban areas. They may not all apply to you in your area, but several of them likely will.

If you’d like to see these tips in action, I just posted a video where I demonstrate every single one of these tips, so make sure you check that out too for a demo.

amsterdam dutch insurance fat tire bikes

Tip 1: Avoid riding with cars unless necessary

This might sound like an odd tip for a guide on riding with cars, but hear me out. Just like in War Games, sometimes the only winning move is not to play. As much as Western car culture tries to deny it, the most dangerous thing on the road are cars themselves. They are the cause for nearly every cyclist death. The best way to get away with murder in the US (or many other countries) is to do it with a car.

So if you have bike lanes, please use them. If your city doesn’t have bike lanes, lobby your city council to install them.

This also doesn’t mean ride on the sidewalk, unless that’s the only safe option on the side of major roads with car traffic too fast to safely share (and in that case ride slowly and considerately around pedestrians). Instead, put an effort into finding a route that maximizes your use of safe, protected bike lanes whenever possible.

This isn’t meant to capitulate to dangerous drivers. In most areas, cyclists have every bit as much right to be on the road as drivers. But it doesn’t matter how right we are when Karen blows through us with a 6,000-pound SUV.

For those times when there just aren’t any good, safe bike lanes around, that’s what the rest of these tips are for.

Tip 2: Be visible on the road

Getting seen is half the battle. Compared to cars, we’re a tiny little meat sack on a thin-tubed bike. Drivers simply aren’t looking for us. So we have to make sure they see us.

For me, being visible comes down to two things: my physical appearance and my physical placement. For the first issue, bright-colored clothing, bright-colored bikes (my favorite), and bright front/rear/side LED lights are a great start. Some cyclists wear anti-high visibility clothing because they consider it to be a form of victim-blaming or putting the onus on us to be seen by drivers. Well, I’ve got a news flash for you: Drivers aren’t looking for us and so we need to make ourselves be seen. I usually don’t opt for high-vis clothing myself, but instead usually ride a high-vis bike with bright paint and lots of lighting. My personal bikes are often orange or yellow.

For the second issue, road placement is key. Where I live in Tel Aviv, bicycles and motorbikes roll up to the front of the red light and wait directly in front of the cars. They can’t not see us because we’re literally in front of their faces at the front of the line. When the light turns green, we all roll off first because we’re quicker and more agile, helping us get away from the cars who already know we’re there because they’ve been staring at our backs for the last 45 seconds.

In other cases when traffic backs up and I don’t have space to move around the cars due to narrow lanes (known as filtering), I pull directly in front of cars for the same reason: They see me. I’m just like every other vehicle on the road – I’m behind the car in front of me and in front of the car behind me. I can always see at least two of the mirrors of the car ahead of me, meaning they can see me too, and we’re all waiting there in a line like well-behaved citizens not trying to murder each other with our vehicles. If a car driver gets angry at seeing a cyclist in front of them while they are both standing still in traffic, then they should ask themselves why they harbor such hate in their heart. We’re all just waiting to go, man!

The last part of this is the idea of “owning your lane.” Check your local laws, but in many areas bicycles are treated like any other road-going vehicle when they’re on city streets. If I’m moving slower than the speed of traffic and there is enough space for cars to safely pass me, I’ll slide over to the right and let them do it. If there’s not enough space for a safe pass, I hang farther out towards the middle of my lane to prevent drivers from endangering me or anyone in the oncoming traffic lane by trying to squeeze through. There is nuance here though and it also depends on your local culture. Bikes are common here, so this is sort of understood. If the car behind you has a Texas license plate though, they may just decide the fastest way forward is through you, so use this concept with some discretion. There are times to own your lane and there are times to just pull the hell over and let a dangerous driver go past so they can go be dangerous somewhere else that isn’t around you.

Being visible to cars with bright lights and colors is a good start, but placing your bike in the proper spot in the lane to make yourself visible in traffic and at intersections is just as important.

Tip 3: Communicate effectively with drivers

There are several ways to communicate with drivers, but the best ways I have found are with your arms and your eyes, in that order. Riding in Amsterdam taught me how effective eye contact is with other cyclists, but car drivers seem to be simpler creatures that usually require a blunter approach. Broad arm gestures are best because they are highly visible.

Typical bicycle hand signals for turns are good (though I don’t use the left arm at a right angle pointing up to indicate a right turn because no one knows what that means). Point with your arm in the direction you plan to turn. But don’t just point – stick your arm way out there. Wave it a little if you have to. Get the driver’s attention with it. E-bikes with turn signals are cute, but they’re largely ineffective.

When I’m crossing in a crosswalk at an intersection, especially when it’s a side street connecting to a main street where drivers are only looking for cross car traffic, I will wave at the drivers with my hand straight up in the air, wait until they make eye contact with me, then I’ll proceed forward. I usually give them a thumbs up and a smile as I go by, reinforcing that smug little “I just saved that guy’s life” feeling they get from communicating with a cyclist and allowing him to pass. Positive reinforcement never hurts.

When you have to cross multiple lanes of traffic, usually to get into a left turn lane, that is where things get dicey. Again, I use very broad arm gestures that can’t be mistaken. You can see this clearly in my video at 3:53 where I make an obvious left turn signal to show a car coming up on my tail that I’ll be moving over, then I begin moving over to show him that I’m not asking for permission but rather informing him of the fact that I’m moving over, but I balance that with only making enough progress to ensure he starts braking from seeing me, just in case I need to bail back into my lane if he’s a jerk about it. Again, there’s a lot of nuance here and it will take some time and confidence to get practiced at these types of maneuvers. Cars have the luxury of throwing on a blinker and blindly swerving between lanes all willy-nilly. As cyclists, we still have to change lanes sometimes but we must be much more clear and calculated about it.

The last note on communication is about horns. I’ve gone back and forth about this. There’s no stock e-bike horn that is effective, at least that I’ve seen. They are mostly wimpy little noisemakers that sound like they came out of a toy store keyboard. I used an AirZounds airhorn for many years, and also rigged a motorcycle horn on my e-bike, both to great effect. But for the last several years I’ve been hornless. They can be effective, don’t get me wrong, but they can also be problematic. When you sound a horn, drivers look for other cars. They don’t expect you to be the horn owner (what with your silly little non-car thing you’re riding around on), and so sometimes a horn simply causes more momentary confusion. In an emergency, more confusion is often the last thing you want. So if you want to use a horn, use a loud one. But in most cases, an extra helping of foresight can prevent the need for getting to the point of using a horn on a bike.

Tip 4: Follow traffic laws (seriously)

This might either sound obvious or annoying, depending on your personal feelings on this, but I recommend following traffic laws to the best of your ability. The simple reason is not to protect others, but to protect yourself.

Car driver’s aren’t expecting you to blow through red lights or come the wrong way up a one-way street. For your own safety, following traffic laws gives you the best bet that drivers won’t be surprised by you.

That being said, there are few things sillier than a cyclist sitting at a red light for several minutes without a car going by. Traffic lights exist to prevent cars from plowing into each other. Purely cycle-only streets rarely have traffic lights because A) cyclists can communicate and figure it out between themselves, and B) getting hit by a bike is nearly immeasurably safer than getting hit by a car. That’s why rules like the “Idaho stop” exist in several places, allowing cyclists to treat red lights like stop signs and stop signs like yield signs. But in those cases, for your own safety it’s still critical that you actually confirm there’s no cross traffic before proceeding. It sounds obvious, but it bears repeating.

Tip 5: Be aware of your surroundings

Riding a bike around cars requires maintaining situational awareness. Mirrors are great, but I don’t use them much anymore because they make it harder to lane split by widening my handlebars too much (and the in-board ones just show me my shoulder). If you don’t lane split, a mirror is a great addition, though helmet mirrors can work for lane splitters too.

For everyone else, keep that head on a swivel. Shoulder checks are a must to know what’s going on around you. Use your eyes and your ears.

Also, for the love all things good in this world, take the dang ear phones off. If you want to wear them while riding on a bike path… well, that’s still a bad idea but it’s not as egregious. But when you’re on the road with cars, skip the ear phones. When I was in the army we weren’t allowed to wear two earbuds at any time. If we wore them at all, we had to always have one out to maintain awareness of our surroundings. That’s still how I wear them to this day. If I’m running, biking or anywhere in public, I’ve only got one ear bud in if I need them at all. When you’re sharing the road with 6,000-pound murder machines, you don’t need any additional handicaps like not being able to hear them coming.

Tip 6: Don’t get doored

Getting doored is when a car opens a door right in front of you, causing you to crash into it. It can and has been deadly.

It’s usually the case of someone exiting a parallel parked car but sometimes happens when a driver stops in the traffic lane to let a passenger get out.

The best way to avoid this is to maintain one door-width of distance when you pass parked cars. When this isn’t possible due to narrow lanes, I slow down enough that I can hopefully react with enough time.

xtracycle stoker electric cargo bike

Tip 7: Use appropriate speed

Don’t go too fast, but don’t go too slow, whenever possible.

One major advantage of e-bikes and bicycles in general is that they can flow so much faster than the snail’s pace of city traffic. But don’t overdo it when passing cars, since you never know when a driver is going to do something unexpected.

On the flip-side, sometimes faster bikes are actually safer, especially when they can better keep up with the speed of traffic. If cars are doing 25-30 mph (40-48 km/h), then I’m going to match that speed as long as road conditions are safe to do so. That means I can still own my lane instead of getting repeatedly passed on the side of the road.

Going faster means less reaction time though, so keep that in mind. Leave enough following distance when you’re going faster. It’s not just about preventing a car from slamming on their brakes and hitting you. I once ruined a really nice motor wheel in one of my e-bikes when I was following too close and couldn’t avoid hitting a sudden pot hole. Things sneak up on you much quicker at higher speeds.

Tip 8: Be predictable

Drivers are dumb. I’m sorry, but they just are. I know this because I occasionally drive and I am dumber during those minutes inside the car. There’s something about being inside a steel cage that puts people on varying levels of autopilot. When I’m on my bicycles and motorcycles, I’m much more aware of everything around me, but in a car I can still fall victim to that autopilot effect.

That means you have to make it easy for drivers by being predictable. Don’t make any sudden quick turns or swerve between lanes. Instead, make broad and purposeful movements that indicate clear direction. Don’t suddenly slam your brakes, even though you’ve got those awesome hydraulic stoppers. Make smoother stops that are easier for drivers to gauge your deceleration (and use hand signals if necessary).

Basically, don’t surprise drivers because they tend to spook easily, especially when their subconscious mind had all but ignored you as a cyclist.

Tip 9: Look for driver decision cues

This is another nuanced one, but it will develop for you over time. As I ride, I’m constantly looking for cues and scenarios that will impact drivers around me so that I can predict their behavior instead of reacting to it.

If I’m rolling up to an intersection, I’m scanning for blinkers but I’m also looking for car behavior indicative of a turn even without blinkers. If the car in front of me going through an intersection doesn’t have its turn signal on but suddenly moves a foot or two to the left, there’s a high chance it is making space to turn right. I’ll instantly slow down so they don’t right hook me into the great bike shop in the sky. (Side note to drivers, even BMW drivers: You should always use your turn signals. Just because “there aren’t any cars around” doesn’t mean there isn’t a bicycle that you didn’t see.)

I don’t just look at the road in front of me, I also look at what is going on a few cars in front of me so I know if the column of cars will need to brake shortly.

If I’m lane splitting or just riding on the right side of my lane and I see a motorcycle is about to pass on the left, I roll forward or backward to make sure the motorcycle doesn’t “push” the car into me.

If there is debris in the road, I look for which side of the car column it is closer to in order to know which way they’ll move around it.

At intersections, I look at a car’s hubcap to see if it is really stopped or is actually slowly crawling forward (spinning motion is easier to pick up on with a quick glance from a moving vantage point).

Anticipating the behavior of drivers can be difficult, but small cues like these can help.

Tip 10: Safety equipment

This one is unfortunately a bit controversial, but safety equipment is probably a good idea. I always wear a helmet at a bare minimum but also try to ride in pants and close-toed shoes. You may also want to consider gloves or protective pads, depending on your own personal preferences.

When I first started riding e-bikes around 2010 or so, I wore a full face motorcycle helmet. I still wear my motorcycle gear sometimes when riding out of class e-bikes that go extra fast, but I generally just wear a “normal” bike helmet most of the time. There are several good full face bicycle helmets now, often popular with downhill mountain bike riders, but I see more and more people wearing them in the city. It’s a great idea if you want your face to still look pretty in addition to keeping your brain from getting scrambled.

My personal thought process is that skin grows back, broken bones heal, brain injuries don’t heal. Ultimately, your level of safety equipment is a choice that only you can make. I’m amazed every time I’m in Amsterdam and I’m the only one wearing a helmet, but I understand that location and culture make a big difference in how much safety gear is advisable.

xtracycle stoker electric cargo bike
A helmet only works if it fits properly (kids) and is buckled (dad)

Bonus tip: Dust in your eyes

Here’s a little extra tip I’ve found that is super specific but I wind up using it a lot. If you don’t wear sun glasses, then clear safety glasses like from a machine shop are a good way to keep dust out of your eyes. I almost never have them when I need them though, so when I see that I’m about to pass through a dust cloud, I preemptively close one eye.

Sure, you briefly lose depth perception. But if you get dust in your eyes then the bodily reflex is to immediately slam shut your eyes. That’s… not good when you’re flying down the road at 28 mph (45 km/h). With one of my eyes already closed, if the other eye gets dust in it then I can close it and open my “spare” eye so I maintain vision. Then I have time to work on the blinking, watery mess of the other eye. It’s also useful for swarms of flying bugs like gnats.

Stay safe out there

Wow, I can’t believe you made it to the end. You either really care about bike safety or you’re my copy editor. Nice!

To put a pretty bow on this, the take-home message here should be that riding an e-bike can be a fast, fun, and efficient way to travel your city. But riding with cars is also fraught with potential danger. Until our cities do a better job building protected bike lanes, the best we can do is protect ourselves with the knowledge and skills needed to interact with those cars safely.

Stay safe out there and ride on!

FTC: We use income earning auto affiliate links. More.

Continue Reading

Environment

BMW updates its best-selling EV with more range and power

Published

on

By

BMW updates its best-selling EV with more range and power

The 2026 BMW i4 is bringing a few key improvements, including a longer driving range and added power. Here’s what to expect.

The 2026 BMW i4 can drive further with added range

BMW is giving the people what they want. The German luxury brand upgraded its most popular EV lineup for the 2026 model year with new silicon carbide (SiC) inverters that unlock greater driving range while improving efficiency.

The 2026 i4 uses the same SiCs as the i5, which BMW said are not only more efficient but also more powerful and more heat-resistant than traditional semiconductors.

BMW said that regardless of what wheels and tires you choose, the 2026 i4 eDrive40 is now expected to have over 300 miles of range.

Advertisement – scroll for more content

The new 2026 BMW i4 eDrive40 with 18″ wheels is now estimated to have 333 miles of range, 15 miles more than the outgoing model. With 19″ wheels, BMW estimates the base i4 can drive 307 miles on a full charge, 12 miles more than the 2025 version.

2026-BMW-i4-range
The 2026 BMW i4 (Source: BMW)

Thanks to the new SICs, BMW’s range-topping i4 M60 gains a notable boost in power. The 2026 BMW i4 M60 now delivers up to 510 hp, 41 hp more than the outgoing model.

When My Modes Sport is activated, the i4 packs up to 592 hp, 57 hp more than the M50. The added power is good for a 0-to-60-mph sprint in just 3.6 seconds.

Other upgrades include a new Seal & Drive Tire Kit included as standard. BMW also added Drive Recorder to its Parking Assistant Professional Package and Glass Controls as an option across all i4 trims.

 2026 BMW i4 trim Estimated Blended Range Improvement Over 2025 Model
 Wheel Size 18” 19” 20” 18” 19” 20”
i4 eDrive40 333 mi 307 mi 15 mi 12 mi
i4 M60 278 mi 232 mi 11 mi 5 mi
2026 BMW i4 driving range compared to the 2025 model (Source: BMW)

The i4 eDrive40 and xDrive40 now offer black mirror caps and M Sport brakes if you choose the Shadowline package.

The 2026 BMW i4 eDrive40 starts at $57,900, while the 2026 xDrive40 Gran Coupe is priced from $62,300. The range-topping 2026 i4 M60 starts at $70,700.

With the 2026 model year arriving at dealerships, BMW is offering clearance prices on 2025 models. The 2025 BMW i4 is available to lease for as low as $399 per month.

Are you interested in test-driving BMW’s electric sedan? You can use our link to find BMW i4 models available in your area.

FTC: We use income earning auto affiliate links. More.

Continue Reading

Environment

Formula E’s new car is twice as powerful and has all-wheel drive, a first in racing

Published

on

By

Formula E's new car is twice as powerful and has all-wheel drive, a first in racing

Formula E revealed its new “GEN4” vehicle for next season, with a huge step up in performance – the series’ biggest advancement yet.

Formula E is the FIA’s biggest top-level electric racing series, having started all the way back in 2014 and hosting open-wheel all-electric races all around the world.

It started with somewhat modest performing vehicles, with around 250hp and a top speed of 140mph. The cars also had relatively small 28kWh batteries, which meant they couldn’t complete a full race – drivers would actually get out and swap into a new car with a fully charged battery halfway through, then continue the race.

In Gen 2, things got a little less silly, and batteries got better enough to allow for a full race distance. Power went up and the cars got faster around the track.

Advertisement – scroll for more content

Gen 3 was another improvement, with a more angular look and an innovative braking system which removed the front friction brakes entirely, instead using a front motor for more regenerative braking. Later on in the car’s lifecycle, that motor was activated for drive power, not just regen, and it became the only all-wheel drive open-wheel racecar. But, it could only be used in qualifying or specific circumstances within a race.

Now, with the Gen 4 car, Formula E is throwing caution to the wind and going all-time all-wheel drive, which no other open-wheel racing series does (it’s been tried a few times, but never stuck). There are other types of vehicles that race with all-wheel drive, but no other open-wheel single-seaters.

But that’s not all, there have also been a lot of spec improvements from the new vehicle.

Max power improves from 350kW to a whopping 600kW (805hp) – a near doubling. The Gen 3 cars were limited to 300kW in race mode, but the Gen 4 will have that boosted to 450kW (603hp). Max 600kW will be available in qualifying and in “attack mode,” a temporary boost that drivers can activate during the race.

With the higher performance, Formula E will offer new downforce packages. In the beginning, Formula E cars didn’t quite travel fast enough for downforce to matter a whole lot (especially since it also harms efficiency), but now that the series is getting more powerful, there will be more options available to optimize bodywork for certain racetracks.

All that fits into a package thats just 1,012kg (2,230lbs), and accelerates from 0-60 in 1.8 seconds. That’s about 30% faster than an F1 car can make the same sprint – though, admittedly, racecars only go 0-60 one time per race. But it’s still useful to zip out of a turn real quick.

All-wheel drive will also help corner exit speed, as it allows drivers to put the power down earlier without spinning out. Another new feature on the Gen 4 cars which will enhance driveability is the addition of anti-lock brakes and traction control – features that aren’t seen on most racecars (and, to be quite honest, I’m not a fan of this – makes the car too easy to drive, and numbs the racing).

More importantly, in initial testing, a Gen 4 car was clocked at 211mph, which is, uh, fast as hell:

Regenerative braking capacity is boosted to 700kW from the previous 600kW, so more energy will be recaptured throughout the race, enhancing efficiency. That might also translate into faster mid-race charging speeds, as Formula E finally got its mid-race charging plans working this last season with a feature it calls “pit boost.”

Formula E says that the goal of this car was to build “the world’s most sustainable race car”, and says that 100% of the materials used in its construction are recyclable, and at least 20% of the materials used in it are recycled content, which is double the amount of the outgoing generation.

The car will start racing next season, in late 2026. Formula E’s 12th season, the last season of the Gen 3 cars, starts on December 6 in São Paulo.

Electrek’s Take

It’s exciting to see the advancements in electric racing, and having such a huge jump in power from one generation to another is quite impressive. Remember, the first FE cars in 2014 had just 250hp, and now we’re here at 805hp – more than three times as much as where we started. For comparison, today’s F1 cars have around 1,000 horsepower.

I’m less enthused about the addition of driver’s aids. Traction control and anti-lock braking take a lot of the skill out of driving, make races less unpredictable, and restrict performance of the vehicles as compared to a perfectly-driven car (well, traction control does at least – because it cuts motor power when it detects wheel slippage).

These aids are great for road cars and unpracticed drivers, but for professional drivers seeking to extract every tiny bit of performance, and to do so in an exciting way that is entertaining to watch, I think these are a big step down. We hope they reconsider this, or add some sort of restriction on the use of the systems.

Nevertheless, it’s always exciting to see what these new cars can do after each upgrade, and this one seems like more of a doozy than ever. We’re looking forward to seeing it all at the end of 2026.


The 30% federal solar tax credit is ending this year. If you’ve ever considered going solar, now’s the time to act. To make sure you find a trusted, reliable solar installer near you that offers competitive pricing, check out EnergySage, a free service that makes it easy for you to go solar. It has hundreds of pre-vetted solar installers competing for your business, ensuring you get high-quality solutions and save 20-30% compared to going it alone. Plus, it’s free to use, and you won’t get sales calls until you select an installer and share your phone number with them.

Your personalized solar quotes are easy to compare online and you’ll get access to unbiased Energy Advisors to help you every step of the way. Get started here.

FTC: We use income earning auto affiliate links. More.

Continue Reading

Environment

Nissan is finally showing signs of a recovery, but it’s not out of the woods yet

Published

on

By

Nissan is finally showing signs of a recovery, but it's not out of the woods yet

Nissan is selling its global headquarters and trimming production as part of its recovery efforts. Although the Japanese automaker is starting to show signs of life, it still has a long way to go. Nissan is betting on new vehicles, including the next-gen LEAF, to help it turn things around.

Nissan is ramping up its recovery efforts

After reporting first-half earnings on Thursday, Nissan gave an update on its recovery efforts. As part of its comeback plan, “Re:Nissan,” the company aims to return to operating profitability and positive free cash flow by fiscal year 2026.

Despite a challenging first half, Nissan’s CEO Ivan Espinosa claimed that the company is “firmly on the path to recovery.”

Nissan’s sales revenue fell nearly 7% to 5.6 trillion yen ($36.5 billion) due to lower global vehicle sales, particularly in Japan. Espinosa said sales are improving in the US and China, with new vehicles launching, including the 2026 LEAF and the Roox kei car.

Advertisement – scroll for more content

In the first half of the fiscal year, Nissan reported an operating loss of 27.7 billion yen ($180.7 million), a stark contrast from the 32.09 billion operating profit it generated in the first half of fiscal 2024.

Nissan-recovery
The new Nissan LEAF (Source: Nissan)

However, the loss was significantly lower than the 180 billion yen ($1.1 billion) loss Nissan had forecast just a few months ago.

Nissan said it has identified 200 billion yen ($1.3 billion) in potential variable cost savings. It has already reduced fixed costs by over 80 billion yen ($500 million) and is on track to hit its goal of 250 billion yen ($1.6 billion) by fiscal 2026.

Nissan-lower-priced-LEAF
Nissan unveils the new LEAF in Japan (Source: Nissan)

As part of its recovery efforts, Nissan announced it’s selling and leasing back its global headquarters in Yokohama.

With a new 20-year leaseback agreement, Nissan said it will have no impact on employees and operations at the facility. It will use the funds to support its recovery efforts.

Nissan has now closed or consolidated six of the seven planned manufacturing plants. The company said it has significantly improved efficiency, and the engineering cost-per-hour improvement is now 12%, well on its way toward its 20% goal.

Nissan-recovery
2026 Nissan Rogue Rock Creek edition (Source: Nissan)

Espinosa added that the second half will “bring its own hurdles,” but Nissan is confident it will “deliver even stronger results.”

Nissan confirmed it’s still on track to generate an operating profit in fiscal 2025, excluding the impact of tariffs. The company expects to take a 275 billion yen ($1.8 billion) hit from US tariffs in the fiscal year.

According to reports, Nissan is also planning to cut production of its best-selling Rogue SUV in Japan due to a supply shortage from chipmaker Nexperia. Nissan plans to cut Rogue output by about 900 vehicles, starting next week, a source told Reuters.

FTC: We use income earning auto affiliate links. More.

Continue Reading

Trending