The main road into Bethlehem is closed. What is normally a simple 20-minute journey from Jerusalem now takes us an hour, as cars queue to get through the one Israeli military checkpoint open further south.
It’s been like this since the war began, and it’s just one way that life in the West Bank has become much harder for Palestinians.
In Manger Square, the shops selling Christmas decorations and souvenirs are mostly closed, shutters pulled down.
We find one shop open, it has been owned by three generations of the Tabash family since 1927, but they haven’t done any business for months and say that even during the coronavirus pandemic, it was never as bad as it is now.
“We never have this situation. Even in COVID time, we used to have a little bit of some people coming,” Rony Tabash tells me.
“Usually we are full of pilgrims, full of tourists. Now we can see Bethlehem. It’s like the desert, we are almost two months without any business.
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“We open every day because this place is part of our heart, part of our history, so we come here. Me and my father, my brother, to greet the people, to stay, to drink coffee.
“Because really, this place is part of our heart. We always hope for a better future for all the world, especially not for us, for our children, for our future, for our real future.”
The Church of the Nativity, normally heaving with tourists and pilgrims, is quiet, even during a Sunday mass in December.
A few Palestinian Christians attend the weekly service and pray in the grotto where Jesus is said to have been born, but the excitement and joy of Christmas time are absent this year.
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For the first time in living memory, there won’t be a Christmas tree in Manger Square this year.
“This year we will pray at Christmas and we will celebrate the progress. But there will be no festivals, nothing. So we hope that after Christmas it will be good. I hope so,” says Rony.
A few hundred metres away, through the market and up the hill is the Church of Lutheran Christmas.
Inside they have made a crib of rubble and laid in it a baby wrapped in the black and white Palestinian kufiyah – an image that has gone around the world as a sign of the suffering in Gaza this Christmas.
Image: An installation of a scene of the Nativity of Christ with a figure symbolising baby Jesus lying amid the rubble inside the Evangelical Lutheran Church in Bethlehem. Pic: AP
“Every year at this place, we have a Christmas tree with lights and gifts,” Reverend Munther Isaac explains.
“However, this year there are no celebrations in Palestine and Bethlehem, for it is impossible to celebrate with a genocide taking place in our land against our people.
“No one is in a mood to celebrate, yet at the same time in our church we wanted to bring the meaning of Christmas to life and to explain what Christmas means to our people.
Image: A priest walks at the Church of the Nativity. Pic: AP
“We want to send a message to the world that in the homeland of Christmas, that this is what Christmas looks like. The world is celebrating Christmas right now in different ways, with joyful celebrations, lighting of Christmas trees and celebrations and events, but in the home of Christmas, this is what Christmas looks like.
“Children being pulled from under the rubble.”
The holy land is a place of hope and miracles for many, and they will be praying for a ceasefire here this Christmas.
But amid the echoes of Gaza, the sounds of war and the images of death, peace feels a long way away.
England have booked their place in the semi-finals of the Women’s Euros after knocking out Sweden.
The Lionesses won 3-2 on penalties at Stadion Letzigrund in Zurich, Switzerland, after clawing their way back to take the game into extra-time.
The defending champions had been 2-0 down at half-time after goals from Sweden’s Kosovare Asllani and Stina Blackstenius in the quarter-final clash.
England then levelled matters towards the end of normal time. Lucy Bronze delivered the first England goal on 79 minutes, assisted by substitute Chloe Kelly. Two minutes later, Michelle Agyemang followed suit, taking the score to 2-2.
Image: England goalkeeper Hannah Hampton (R) celebrates with teammates after the side beat Sweden. Pic: AP
After a goalless extra-time, it was time for penalties.
Alessia Russo kicked things off, finding the back of the net for England, before Lauren James, Alex Greenwood, Beth Mead and Grace Clinton had their attempts saved by Sweden’s Jennifer Falk.
The game was sent into sudden death after Falk went face-to-face with England’s Hannah Hampton but sent the ball flying over the crossbar.
Image: Pic: Reuters
Image: A devastated Sweden. Pic: Reuters
It all came down to Sweden’s seventh penalty after Bronze sensationally scored, with 18-year-old Smilla Holmberg missing the chance to send her team through.
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England will next face Italy in the semi-finals in Geneva on Tuesday.
‘That was crazy’
England boss Sarina Wiegman described the action as “one of the hardest games I’ve ever watched”.
Image: Sarina Wiegman after the match. Pic: Reuters
“We could have been out of the game three or four times, when you’re 2-0 at half-time it’s not good,” she said after the match.
“Although we started really bad, at the end it got better, but we didn’t create anything so we had to change shape, and we score two goals – that was crazy.
“We miss a lot [of penalties], and they miss even more. I need to decompress, I think.”
Image: Hannah Hampton still delivered with one nostril down. Pic: Reuters
Goalkeeper Hampton added that it was “stressful watching” and “stressful playing”.
The 24-year-old, who was left with a bloodied nose in extra-time, said: “Every time I saved one, I was just thinking ‘please put it in, so we have a bit of a cushion!’
“To be honest, I think I was better in the game when I had one nostril than when I was completely fine!”
She said it was the support of the England fans that helped the team push on. She said: “They were definitely behind me and I appreciate all the support.”
Image: Michelle Agyemang reacts after levelling the game for the Lionesses. Pic: Reuters
Their journey in the group stages started with a 2-1 defeat to France, but hopes were lifted after England sailed past the Netherlands and Wales to reach the knockout stages, finishing second in Group D.
Sweden on the other hand went into Thursday’s game unbeaten in the tournament so far, having already defeated Germany, Poland and Denmark in the group stages.
By the time Hannah Hampton appeared in the news conference, the England goalkeeper was relieved, ecstatic and wanting to share this night far and wide.
So when her phone started ringing with a FaceTime call, she broke off speaking to the media about reaching the Euros semi-finals to answer it.
And then share the call with the room in Zurich.
After such a nerve-shredding night, this was the moment to relax and just savour it all.
Savour how close they came to throwing it all away against Sweden before staging a stirring comeback inspired by Lucy Bronze.
The 33-year-old scored the goal that began the fightback with 11 minutes to go and converted England’s final penalty in the shootout.
Image: Lucy Bronze converted England’s final penalty. Pic: Reuters
“Lucy Bronze is one of a kind,” England manager Sarina Wiegman said. “It’s that resilience, that fight. I think the only way to get her off the pitch is in a wheelchair.”
The Lionesses looked down and out, 2-0 down after 25 minutes.
Completely outplayed. A defence run ragged. Just too sloppy.
“We said at half-time we don’t want to go home,” Hampton said. “So it’s up to us to turn the game around.”
Image: Things were not looking good for England by half-time. Pic: Reuters
Image: But the team managed to turn things around. Pic: Reuters
That only came after Wiegman deployed the substitutes the manager calls “finishers”.
They fulfilled their mission.
“Sweden in that moment had to adapt to some different things in the game,” Wiegman said, “before they could, it was 2-2.”
Within seconds of coming on, match-winner Chloe Kelly showed the missing spirit. The spirit that saw her score the Euro 2022 winner.
Image: Pic: Reuters
A creator of two goals in 103 seconds.
A cross headed in with 11 minutes to go by Bronze – the only player still playing from the Euro 2013 group-stage elimination.
It was a lifeline seized on so quickly.
Another cross from Kelly was this time brought down by Beth Mead before Michelle Agyemang.
The timeliest of goals from the teen – a first tournament goal on her third appearance as a sub.
Image: Teenager Michelle Agyemang reacts after scoring England’s second goal in normal time. Pic: Reuters
But there would be the anxiousness of extra time to follow, unable to find a breakthrough.
So to the shootout that lasted 14 penalties between them.
Hampton said: “It was stressful watching and playing, I thought every single time when I saved one, ‘Please score and give us a cushion’. I feel so happy and relieved.”
Around Alessia Russo and Kelly scoring there were four England misses before Bronze converted England’s seventh and Sweden missed a fifth.
Felix Baumgartner, the extreme athlete who once jumped from the edge of space, has died in a paragliding crash in Italy.
The 56-year-old Austrian lost control of his motorised paraglider while flying over Porto Sant’Elpidio in the central Marche region.
He then fell to the ground near the swimming pool of a hotel. The reasons for the accident were unclear.
According to reports, he fell ill and lost control.
Image: Pic: AP
During the fall, he is thought to have hit a hotel employee, who was taken to hospital with neck injuries, according to Sky Sports Austria.
She was reportedly injured by a piece of debris that had been dislodged during the vehicle’s impact.
The mayor of Porto Sant’Elpidio, Massimiliano Ciarpella, offered the town’s condolences for the death of “a symbol of courage and passion for extreme flights”.