There is a long queue of people waiting to board the ferry from the coastal city of Xiamen in southeast China.
There are families with children, a number of older people and many others lugging huge suitcases laden with cheap goods.
They board quickly and take seats inside the small boat, there’s a sense many of them take this trip regularly.
Their journey is a short one, fewer than 10 miles lasting only about half an hour, but they are passing between two places with an increasingly tense and fractious relationship: China and Taiwan.
Indeed, this ferry links Chinese Xiamen with the Kinmen Islands, an outlying territory of Taiwan situated over 100 miles from the Taiwanese mainland, but just a few miles from China’s coast.
They are so close that even on a misty day you can see one from the other, at low tide the very closest points are a mere two kilometres apart and there is a history of defectors successfully swimming between them.
But these islands and the short journey between them offer a vantage point of sorts, a perspective on the complex, intertwined relationship between China and Taiwan, the struggle over what their future should be and, crucially, the threat that one poses to the other.
Those issues are coming into sharp focus this week as Taiwan heads to the polls to pick a new president.
As a self-governing island that China views as a breakaway province, elections are always contentious, and this time promises to be no exception.
The current ruling party’s candidate, Lai Ching-te, is most likely to win, his Democratic Progressive Party (DPP) takes the hardest line against China, and with a history of making pro-independence statements, his election will be highly provoking to Beijing.
In the run-up China has maintained military pressure on Taiwan such as flying warplanes towards the island, while one official framed the vote as a choice between “war and peace”.
On Kinmen itself an awareness of its vulnerability is everywhere.
The beaches are lined with historic defensive spikes and bunkers, there are multiple imposing army bases and military trucks are a regular sight on the roads.
Experts say that while Kinmen would not be a key focus of any Chinese invasion, it would likely be a first port of call.
Image: Historic defences on a beach on Taiwan’s Kinmen Islands, just across the water from China
Image: An historic bunker on a beach on the Kinmen Islands, which could be re-used if China invaded
‘People are unhappy and angry’
This is what 36-year-old Wenchi Lan believes. He previously served in the army and is now a keen follower of military issues and an expert on Kinmen’s historic military sites.
He thinks that while war isn’t imminent, it is possible and shows us a bag he has prepared for that eventuality, including torches, medicine and a wallet stuffed with Chinese currency to “pay-off the invading troops”, he says.
As a young voter his support lies with Lai Ching-te, the DPP, he believes, is the party most likely stand up to the Chinese threat.
“Emotionally due to the constant state of intimidation, people are definitely unhappy and angry,” he says, “China’s continuous showing of military threat is counter-productive.
“The threat from China directly influences my families’ assessment of the candidates and their attitudes towards cross-strait relations.
“Older people tend to believe that the country should prioritise peace over the nation, consider peace first and then the nation second.”
He continues: “However my family and I believe the order should be reversed, we think the nation should come first and then we can discuss how to engage in equal exchanges.”
Image: Wenchi Lan has prepared an emergency kit for him and his wife for if China invades
Image: Taiwan’s current vice president and DPP candidate for president Lai Ching-te alongside his running mate Hsiao Bi-khim on a campaign poster
‘Both Taiwan and the mainland belong to Chinese culture’
But the views of many on Kinmen are a little more nuanced, heavily influenced by the deep historical as well as cultural and linguistic ties with the mainland.
In fact many here continue to see themselves as culturally Chinese, “I am a Fujian person”, one woman proudly tells us.
And that closeness means that many here vote for the opposition KMT party which advocates more dialogue and a closer relationship with Beijing.
This is also a place where Chinese efforts to win the hearts and minds of Taiwanese people have made significant inroads.
State supported cultural exchanges are just one tactic.
Shih Tsung Chen’s choir has taken part in such exchanges, journeying to the mainland to perform.
At the small church in Kinmen where they gather to practice a mixture of Taiwanese and Chinese cultural songs, he tells us that most people here want a relationship with China, but one based on peace.
“Politically, we belong to Taiwan, but in terms of culture, I feel that we are quite close to the mainland. This closeness may even surpass Taiwan itself,” he says.
Image: Shih Tsung Chen is critical of the ruling DPP for ’emphasising Taiwan’s independence’
In fact when it comes to rising tensions with China, he blames the DPP.
“Taiwan’s main issue now is because the ruling party has been emphasising Taiwan’s independence,” he says.
“I think that the division between the two sides, Taiwan and the mainland, is not correct. Both Taiwan and the mainland belong to Chinese culture. So, fundamentally, trying to separate them is not right. From my perspective, Taiwan’s ruling party bears a larger responsibility.”
A KMT victory might reduce tensions across the strait for a time, but it almost certainly won’t resolve the underlying disagreement.
It is unclear at the moment how China will respond to the vote, but any escalation of tensions may well be felt first by the people of Kinmen.
China’s status as a military superpower was on full display as Beijing marked the 80th anniversary of the end of the Second World War.
Tens of thousands of troops, tanks and armoured vehicles moved through Tiananmen Square on Wednesday, along with a fearsome array of missiles. Fighter jets soared overhead.
“They want to advertise to the world that they’re doing old and new,” military analyst Michael Clarke told Sky News. “So they were showing the enormity of what they’ve got in in traditional terms, but also some of the new things.”
Indeed, the event featured many weapons and equipment that had never been seen in public before.
In this story, Sky News looks at what units and military hardware were on display in the Chinese capital.
Image: Flags flutter as soldiers participate in a military parade to mark the 80th anniversary of the end of the Second World War. Pic: Reuters
Land forces
Huge numbers of soldiers from various wings of China’s armed forces made up the bulk of the parade, marching in perfect lockstep in neat rows.
As well as the traditional elements from the army and navy, the procession also featured newer pieces like the cyberspace unit.
The new unit is in charge of cybersecurity defence measures, the Xinhua state news agency says, and also took part in live-fire drills.
Another new unit was the information support force, which was created in 2024 to build network information systems to support military combat readiness.
Image: Tanks as part of the military parade
Nuclear triad on display for the first time
Also rolling through the square were an array of missiles, including those that form China’s strategic nuclear capability.
For the first time, Beijing unveiled its nuclear triad of air, land and sea-based missiles.
This included the JL-1 air-based long-range missile, JL-3 submarine-launched intercontinental missile, DF-61 land-based intercontinental missile, and the new type DF-31 land-based intercontinental missile.
The weapons are China’s strategic “ace” power to safeguard the country’s sovereignty and nation’s dignity, according to Xinhua.
China is one of four countries known to possess a nuclear triad, along with the US, Russia and India.
Other missiles on display included hypersonic anti-ship missiles that China has previously tested against mockups of US aircraft carriers, such as the Yingji-19, Yingji-17 and Yingji-20.
“These are designed to frighten the United States,” Mr Clarke says, with reference to the Pacific Ocean where US warships patrol from their 7th Fleet headquarters in Japan.
China also put a number of its unmanned weapon systems on display, evidence of the changing nature of modern warfare.
Arguably the most interesting were the so-called ‘robot wolves’.
Image: ‘Robot wolves’ carried on vehicles
There were also underwater drones such as the AJX002, a long, black tube-shaped craft that looks like a narrow submarine with a rear propeller.
The military also showed off unmanned helicopters that are designed to be launched from ships.
Image: Air-defence laser weapons that have been recently developed. Pic: Reuters
Like other militaries, China has also been developing laser weapons to defend against drone attacks – one of which was on display today as well.
As attack drones get more advanced – and numerous – a counter drive to develop cheaper ways of shooting them down is ongoing.
“The one that they kept under wraps was this laser gun,” Mr Clarke said. “It was all under tarpaulin in the rehearsals – and suddenly there it was. It was like a big searchlight on a vehicle.
“Laser guns, despite James Bond films, are not quite as ground-breaking as people think, but there it was: a new laser gun.”
Air force
Beijing has developed a number of advanced aircraft in recent years, and several of them were on display on Wednesday.
Soaring above the parade were China’s two fifth-generation fighter jets, the Chengdu J-20 and Shenyang J-35A.
Image: J-16D, J-20, and J-35A fighter jets fly over Tiananmen Square. Pic: Reuters
Both have stealth capabilities and are designed to try to rival the US air force’s F-35 jet.
China has two of the five fifth-generation fighter jets currently known to operate globally. The others are the American F-35 (also operated by the UK and other allies) and F-22, as well as the Russian Su-57.
China showing off its range – and numbers
“What they’re showing here is that they’ve got a full panoply of weapons systems,” Mr Clarke says, pointing to the various land, sea and air assets.
“Whether they can link them together in combined arms warfare, we don’t know, because they haven’t fought a major war since the 1950s… but on paper it’s extremely impressive.”
He added: “It’s not as big as the American military yet, but it certainly rivals it. And it certainly worries American military planners.”
The stamp of boots, the rumble of the tanks and the roar of the jet engines literally reverberated through the stand where we were sitting.
“We serve the people” came the cries when called on; the passion, of course, had been practised, but it felt authentic too.
The security to get here spoke volumes about just how tightly controlled this whole event has been.
Our meet time, dictated by the Chinese government, was over seven hours before the start of the parade itself, bussed in at the dead of night, no fewer than three separate rigorous security scans.
But once onto Beijing’s historic Tiananmen Square, we were free to film in places that are normally strictly off limits.
And that is because today, nothing less than Chinaitself, in all its prowess, is on show.
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Xi: ‘We can avoid repetition of tragedy’
A projection of power
While this parade is officially to mark 80 years since the official surrender of Japan in the Second World War, it is about so much more than that.
It is about the projection of power, both internally and around the world, too.
To the domestic audience, it is about showing just how far China has come since the war.
From a country invaded and ‘humiliated’ by Japan, to a global superpower, all thanks, they say, to the Chinese Communist Party and the vision of President Xi.
It is notable that even in official communications to the foreign media, the objective of “demonstrating loyalty to the party” was listed as a more important motivation than “commemorating” victory in the war and the sacrifices of the Chinese people.
But be in no doubt, they know the world is watching too, and this was also about projecting power internationally.
Image: Pic: Reuters
Close company
That is largely about the military might, of course, the huge array of Chinese-produced, cutting-edge new weaponry was notable. So is the fact that Xi’s reorganisation and modernisation of the military has been a key theme.
But the messaging was also about the power of China’s allegiances and its political heft too.
Indeed, today was especially notable not just for what was on show, but also for who was here.
No accident at all that Xi Jinping was continually staged with Russia’s Vladimir Putin on his right and North Korea’s Kim Jong Un to his left.
Image: Pic: Reuters
There has been speculation that the recent blossoming alliance between Putin and Kim has irked China somewhat. No sign of that today, the signals were all that this is a trio in lockstep.
Indeed, Kim rarely leaves his hermit kingdom, and he has never been to a multilateral event as big as this. His presence speaks volumes about his confidence in this company.
All of this comes after four days of intense diplomacy here, where China has hosted leaders from across the world in an attempt to cast itself as a great convener of nations and a preserver of a peaceful global order.
It’s a message perhaps a little undermined when stood before such a show of military might, with one leader wanted by the International Criminal Court for war crimes and another sanctioned by much of the world for its accumulation of nuclear weapons.
But perhaps to many, disillusioned with America, this simply doesn’t matter, and that is the gap Xi is successfully exploiting.
Not everyone will be buying in, but this was in some ways a vision for a future Xi would like to see, and it is a vision that’s centred on Chinese power.
Xi Jinping hailed the “great regeneration of China” as he hosted Vladimir Putin and Kim Jong Un for Beijing’s biggest ever military parade.
The three leaders, who have been labelled the “axis of upheaval”, watched on as troops, tanks, and other military hardware put on a show of force in the Chinese capital.
After being flanked by his Russian and North Korean counterparts as they emerged together at the start of the ceremony, Mr Xi paid tribute to his country’s soldiers who fought “the Japanese invaders” during World War Two.
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Xi, Putin, and Kim walk out for parade
Xi: We will defend our sovereignty
The parade marked the 80th anniversary of Japan’s defeat, which brought the conflict to an end.
“It is an important part of our history, and we made our contribution to saving the people, defending peace, and ensuring victory,” Mr Xi said.
He called on countries to “look after each other” to “avoid the repetition of tragedy”, before declaring China would “accelerate our development and defend our national integrity and sovereignty”.
Mr Putin and Mr Kim represent two of the Chinese president’s closest allies, with both leaning heavily on Beijing for trade – the former especially reliant since being ostracised by the West over the war in Ukraine.
Image: Tens of thousands of troops took part in the parade. Pic: Reuters
Trump sends a message
Donald Trump’s attempts to smooth over US-Russia relations, and bring an end to that conflict, have so far not achieved anything significant.
Posting on Truth Social as soldiers marched through Tiananmen Square, the US president suggested China and its allies were conspiring against Washington.
“May President Xi and the wonderful people of China have a great and lasting day of celebration,” he said.
“Please give my warmest regards to Vladimir Putin and Kim Jong Un, as you conspire against the United States.”
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‘China needs us more than we need them’
For Mr Xi, the parade was a chance not just to commemorate its role in World War Two, but to showcase itself as a significant alternative to a postwar world order dominated by the US.
Mr Trump’s isolationist foreign policy, including cuts to overseas aid, has – according to his critics – given China a tantalising opportunity to flex its muscle.
Concerns remain about whether Beijing may one day make a move on Taiwan, while other nations – notably India – become more drawn into its trade orbit due to Mr Trump’s aggressive tariffs.
The parade came after an economic summit in Beijing, with Indian PM Narendra Modi among the attendees.
Image: Hardware including tanks and fighter jets were on show. Pic: Reuters
China could pose ‘huge threat’ to US
Philip Shetler-Jones, a senior research fellow at the Royal United Services Institute, told Sky News that China’s impressive military – if allied with Russia’s – could “pose a huge threat to American forces” in the Pacific.
“In Japan particularly, people are quite mindful there are joint exercises between Chinese and Russian forces using nuclear-capable bombers, ships, and more recently submarines,” he said.
“I think the intention is to imply that if it came to full-scale conflict involving the US, then China would expect to have collaboration with Russia – and perhaps North Korea as well.”