‘My misery, your paradise’: The problem with tourism in the Canary Islands

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1 year ago

April 27, 2024

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A wave of demonstrations have swept the Canary Islands as locals protested against a tourism model they say has plundered the environment, priced them out of housing and forced them into precarious work.

The seven main Canary Islands are home to 2.2 million people – and welcomed almost 14 million international visitors in 2023, up 13% from the previous year.

The protests were not aimed at individual tourists, activists say, but at the governments that have created a system that skews so much in favour of investors at the expense of local communities.

The tourism industry accounts for 35% of gross domestic product (GDP) in the Canary Islands and local residents who spoke to Sky News agree the islands can’t survive without tourism.

But they are also questioning whether local communities and the environment can survive if things stay the way they are.

What’s the problem? Tourism is a ‘cash cow’ – but not for locals

If you’re looking for what’s behind the wave of protests, you need to look back decades, Sharon Backhouse tells Sky News.

Along with her Canarian husband, she owns GeoTenerife, which runs science field trips and training camps in the Canary Islands and conducts research into sustainable tourism.

The tourism model in the Canary Islands hasn’t been updated since before the tourism boom of the 1980s, when the islands were “trying desperately” to attract investment, she explains.

The answer back then was a model that was “incredibly generous” to investors, who only pay 4% tax and can send the profits earned in the Canaries back to the firm’s home country, Ms Backhouse explains.

But the model hasn’t changed.

That’s created a situation where “more and more of these giant, all inclusive resort hotels” are being built, and the proceeds of this “incredible cash cow” aren’t shared equitably with the local population, she says.

“It is absurd to have a system where so much money is in the hands of a very few extremely powerful groups, and is then funnelled away from the Canary Islands,” she says.

“We’re seeing really low salaries, zero-hour contracts and awful working conditions in some of these hotels.”

Ms Backhouse was at the 20 April protest in Tenerife and says she has “never seen anything like it” in terms of Canarians being united for a single cause.

‘My misery, your paradise’

Earlier this year there was a spate of graffiti in Tenerife.

Andy Ward, director of Tenerife Estate Agents, tells Sky News the media coverage of a smattering of “tourists go home” graffiti has been “100x greater than the on-the-ground reality”, where there is little visible animosity.

But there was one spray-painted message that sums up the gulf between Canary Islands residents and the tourists who flock there: “My misery, your paradise”.

More than a third of the population of the Canary Islands – nearly 800,000 people – are at risk of poverty or social exclusion, according to a recent report from the environmental group Ecologists in Action.

The average wage for restaurant staff and cleaners is between €1,050 and €1,300 a month, Mr Ward says, while the cost of renting an apartment can be almost as much.

‘Shanty towns’ in the shadow of luxury

One of the main issues is the dearth of affordable or social housing, Mr Ward says.

“The governments here have completely neglected this need, instead selling land for more hotels and selling land for luxury villas and high-end apartments, which locals are unable to afford.”

What has caused anger is property managers renting out properties to tourists that are “completely inappropriate and inadequate”, such as small apartments in residential buildings.

The regulations on short-term lets “are a complete mess and a mish-mash”, he says. Landlords aren’t incentivised to let their properties long-term because they must sign up to long leases, and if tenants default on the rent it can take 18 months to evict them.

His views are echoed by Kris Jones, a British citizen who was born in Tenerife, taking over the bar his parents owned in Playa de la Americas, the Drunk’n Duck.

Many hotel employees are forced to live in the multiple motorhome sites that have popped up around the south of the island because they can’t afford anything else, he says.

“Shanty towns” is what Ms Backhouse calls them, built in the shadow of “uber luxury hotels”.

Mr Jones questions why planning permission has been granted to hotels without ensuring their employees will be able to live nearby.

He says the idea the island’s population hates foreign visitors is “utter garbage”.

He stresses that the protests were against the government – not tourists.

“It’s nothing to do with the behaviour of British tourists, and isn’t even part of the agenda at all,” he tells Sky News.

Hunger strike to stop hotels

Protesters say they are having to take increasingly drastic actions to have their voices heard.

Subsequently six members of Canarias Se Agota – which translates to the Canary Islands Are Exhausted – have been on hunger strike since 11 April.

As well as demanding a halt to new tourism developments and a limit to the number of visitors, the campaigners want to stop the development of two luxury resorts in Tenerife.

Both developments faced legal hurdles on environmental grounds that had paused construction, but stop work orders were lifted earlier this year.

Campaigners maintain the developments breach environmental laws – claims the developers deny – and have committed to continuing the hunger strike until the government intervenes, despite some strikers needing hospital treatment.

The hunger strikers, who have not been named, were among fellow protesters on the streets of Tenerife on 20 April.

A spokesperson for the campaign said: “If anything happens to any of our comrades… you (Fernando Clavijo – president of the Canary Islands) will have to face the fury of the people.”

The strikers met with the Canary Islands president on 23 April, but their demands were rejected.

Representatives of the strikers said on 26 April the “medical condition of the six is deteriorating, but they are determined to continue” until their demands are met.

Protesters are also demanding “access to respectable housing”, an “eco-tax” and “immediate measures to put an end to the raw sewage discharges into the sea”.

Salvar La Tejita, an environmental organisation which helped organise the mass protest, says: “It is vital to clarify that these protests are not against the tourists or tourism in general, but are against the political class, administrations, hotel chains, and constructors who are jointly responsible for the unsustainable circumstances which Tenerife is now in.

“This platform is not in any way responsible for the graffiti messages ‘Tourists Go Home’ which have been sprayed in and around many tourist resorts.

The environmental cost of tourism

The Canary Islands are a “biodiversity jewel in the Atlantic”, Ms Backhouse says – but they haven’t been fully protected or valued.

Politicians in the past have said the development of the controversial resorts can’t be stopped “just because of a weed”, she says.

“These aren’t just weeds. What they’re actually doing is interfering with an ecosystem which will have difficulty surviving if you plonk a resort right in the middle of it.”

The building of these resorts has an environmental costs as “beautiful landscapes are cemented over”, Ms Backhouse says – and the cost only mounts once they open.

“The problem with these resorts is that we just don’t have enough resources in terms of water, what happens to all the rubbish, how is it all recycled.

“Locals are feeling disenfranchised from their spaces because it all becomes tourist territory.

“Towns and villages that locals grew up in or would go on holiday in suddenly are completely unrecognisable.”

What solutions are on the table?

One of the proposals is a tourist tax which would be invested in protecting the environment.

Ms Backhouse says the hotel industry is against it and the government is nervous about it – but GeoTenerife’s research indicates it wouldn’t put tourists off.

“I think the reality is very few people will cancel their holiday because they have to pay a little bit of money that goes towards protecting the landscapes they’re coming to see.”

Hoteliers have proposed instead putting up IGIC, which is similar to VAT, but Ms Backhouse says that isn’t welcomed by campaigners “because again, that just puts the onus on the locals to prop up the system”.

A tourist tax is one part of the answer to protect the environment, but it doesn’t answer the question of job insecurity and unaffordable housing.

Ms Backhouse says it is encouraging to see solutions proposed, but “it’s going to take something far more wide-ranging to put this train on a more sustainable track”.

Impending crackdown on holiday homes

A draft law is expected to be passed this year which would ban newly built properties from becoming short-term rentals and toughen up the rules for existing properties.

It comes as official figures show the number of rental beds on the island reached 220,409 in March this year – an increase of more than 40,000 from the same point in 2023.

Canaries regional tourism chief Jessica de Leon told the Reuters news agency that enforcement support for the islands’ 35 inspectors is key to the success of the new rules.

“We are going to empower [the police] so that they can act when fraudulent behaviour is detected in homes,” she said, adding that the plan could involve 1,300 people, which would include all of the islands’ police forces.

“The first step is to contain the growth, the second is to clean up [existing listings],” said Canaries director of tourism Miguel Rodríguez.

An example of the crackdowns to come occurred on 16 April, when police raided a property in Tenerife after its owner was reported for listing the building’s rooftop as a campsite on Airbnb, offering renters tents for €12 (£10) a night.

The plans have not proved popular with landlords, who would be forced to comply with the new rules within five years.

“Everything that the government is trying to impose is problematic,” says a spokesperson for Ascav, the Canary Islands Vacation Rental Association, adding it is “the most restrictive” legislation of its kind in Europe.

They believe around 95% of the existing holiday homes that abide by current laws will not be able to meet the new criteria, which includes getting consent from local authorities to open, meeting higher energy classification thresholds, having a minimum surface area and more in a long list of “impossible compliance”.

“The consequences will be immediate,” they warn. “If holiday homes are banned on the islands, visitors who demand this type of accommodation will choose other destinations, Canary Islanders will be even poorer, bars, restaurants, rent a cars, supermarkets, leisure activities, etc. will lose economic activity. Undoubtedly, we all lose.”

Ascav acknowledges “something is going wrong” for the island’s economy, but argues it’s not down to those providing holiday homes, nor the tourists Canarians “love”.

“The message is for our governments, for their passivity, incompetence and lack of planning,” they say.

“They are the ones that have allowed that the resources of tourism has not to been shared with the local population. Locals has been excluded because governments preferred permitting to exploit the territory and tourism to the maximum, without any return for the islands and their inhabitants.

“The solution is to listen to ourselves, to listen to our visitors, to listen and protect to the Canary islanders, to integrate, to plan, to be sustainable, to grow with, not at the expense of, to be responsible for the territory and the well-being of its people, to diversify, to ensure the quality of the destination.

“Our problems have to be resolved by politicians, but they lack will and predisposition, that’s why we are fed up.”

What have politicians said?

The islands’ president said the day before the 20 April protests that he felt “proud” the region is a leading Spanish tourism spot, but acknowledged more controls are needed.

“We can’t keep looking away. Otherwise, hotels will continue to open without any control,” Fernando Clavijo told a news conference.

Two days after the protest, Mr Clavijo posted on X saying: “What happened last Saturday in the streets of Canarias leaves a message that we share. Canarias has to review its model, where we want to go.

“It had to be done during the pandemic, but it is a challenge that we assumed and on which we are already working with the councils, with the city councils and that we must face as a whole in society.”

He has called a meeting of island presidents and Canary Island administrators on 30 April in the hope of finding a solution.

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Hamas gives ‘positive’ response to ceasefire proposal but asks for amendments

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5 hours ago

July 5, 2025

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Hamas gives 'positive' response to ceasefire proposal but asks for amendments

Hamas has said it has “submitted its positive response” to the latest proposal for a ceasefire in Gaza to mediators.

The proposal for a 60-day ceasefire was presented by US President Donald Trump, who has been pushing hard for a deal to end the fighting in Gaza, with Israeli Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu set to visit the White House next week to discuss a deal.

Mr Trump said Israel had agreed to his proposed ceasefire terms, and he urged Hamas to accept the deal as well.

Hamas’ “positive” response to the proposal had slightly different wording on three issues around humanitarian aid, the status of the Israeli Defence Forces inside Gaza and the language around guarantees beyond the 60-day ceasefire, a source with knowledge of the negotiations revealed.

But the source told Sky News: “Things are looking good.”

Hamas said it is “fully prepared to immediately enter into a round of negotiations regarding the mechanism for implementing this framework” without elaborating on what needed to be worked out in the proposal’s implementation.

The US said during the ceasefire it would “work with all parties to end the war”.

A Hamas official said on condition of anonymity that the truce could start as early as next week.

But he added that talks were needed first to establish how many Palestinian prisoners would be released in return for each freed Israeli hostage and to specify the amount of humanitarian aid that will be allowed to enter Gaza during the ceasefire.

He said negotiations on a permanent ceasefire and the full withdrawal of Israeli troops from Gaza in return for the release of the remaining hostages would start on the first day of the truce.

Hamas has been seeking guarantees that the 60-day ceasefire would lead to a total end to the nearly 21-month-old war, which caused previous rounds of negotiations to fail as Mr Netanyahu has insisted that Israel would continue fighting in Gaza to ensure the destruction of Hamas.

The Hamas official said that Mr Trump has guaranteed that the ceasefire will extend beyond 60 days if necessary to reach a peace deal, but there is no confirmation from the US of such a guarantee.

Speaking to journalists on Air Force One, Mr Trump welcomed Hamas’s “positive spirit” to the proposal, adding that there could be a ceasefire deal by next week.

Hamas also said it wants more aid to flow through the United Nations and other humanitarian agencies, which comes as the UN human rights officer said it recorded 613 Palestinians killed in Gaza within a month while trying to obtain aid.

Most of them were said to have been killed while trying to reach food distribution points by the controversial US- and Israeli-backed Gaza Humanitarian Foundation (GHF).

The spokeswoman for the UN human rights office, Ravina Shamdasani, said the agency was not able to attribute responsibility for the killings, but added that “it is clear that the Israeli military has shelled and shot at Palestinians trying to reach the distribution points” operated by GHF.

Ms Shamdasani said that of the total tallied, 509 killings were “GHF-related”, meaning at or near its distribution sites.

The GHF accused the UN of taking its casualty figures “directly from the Hamas-controlled Gaza health ministry” and of trying “to falsely smear our effort”, which echoed statements to Sky News by the executive director of GHF, Johnnie Moore.

Mr Moore called the UN figures a “disinformation campaign” that is “meant to shut down our efforts” in the Gaza Strip.

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Gaza: The man in the room acting as backchannel for Hamas in negotiations with US

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5 hours ago

July 5, 2025

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Gaza: The man in the room acting as backchannel for Hamas in negotiations with US

Behind the efforts to secure the Gaza ceasefire and hostage release is the remarkable story of one man’s unlikely involvement.

His name is Bishara Bahbah, he’s a Harvard-educated economics professor from Phoenix, Arizona.

In April, his phone rang. It was Hamas.

Since that phone call, Dr Bahbah has been living temporarily in Qatar where he is in direct contact with officials from Hamas. He has emerged as an important back-channel American negotiator. But how?

An inauguration party

I first met Dr Bahbah in January. It was the eve of President Trump’s inauguration and a group of Arab-Americans had thrown a party at a swanky restaurant in Washington DC’s Wharf district.

There was a sense of excitement. Arab-Americans were crediting themselves for having helped Trump over the line in the key swing state of Michigan.

Despite traditionally being aligned with the Democrats, Arab-Americans had abandoned Joe Biden in large numbers because of his handling of the Gaza war.

I’d reported from Michigan weeks earlier and been struck by the overwhelming support for Trump. The vibe essentially was ‘it can’t get any worse – we may as well give Trump a shot’.

Mingling among diplomats from Middle Eastern countries, wealthy business owners and even the president of FIFA, I was introduced to an unassuming man in his late 60s.

We got talking and shared stories of his birthplace and my adopted home for a few years – Jerusalem.

He told me that he still has the deed to his family’s 68 dunum (16 acre) Palestinian orchard.

With nostalgia, he explained how he still had his family’s UN food card which shows their allocated monthly rations from their time living in a refugee camp and in the Jerusalem’s old city.

Dr Bahnah left Jerusalem in 1976. He is now a US citizen but told me Jerusalem would always be home.

He echoed the views I had heard in Michigan, where he had spent many months campaigning as the president of Arab-Americans for Trump.

He dismissed my scepticism that Trump would be any better than Biden for the Palestinians.

We exchanged numbers and agreed to meet for lunch a few weeks later.

A connection with Trump

Dr Bahbah invited two Arab-American friends to our lunch. Over burgers and coke, a block from the White House, we discussed their hopes for Gaza under Trump.

The three men repeated what I had heard on the campaign trail – that things couldn’t get any worse for the Palestinians than they were under Biden.

Trump, they said, would use his pragmatism and transactional nature to create opportunities.

Dr Bahbah displayed to me his own initiative too. He revealed that he got a message to the Palestinian Authority President, Mahmoud Abbas, to suggest he ought to write a personal letter of congratulations to President Trump.

A letter from Ramallah was on the Oval Office desk on 6 November, a day after the election. It’s the sort of gesture Trump notices.

It was clear to me that the campaigning efforts and continued support of these three wealthy men had been recognised by the Trump administration.

They had become close to key figures in Trump’s team – connections that would, in time, pay off.

There were tensions along the way. When Trump announced he would “own Gaza”, Dr Bahbah was disillusioned.

And then came the AI video of Trump and Israeli Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu sunning themselves in a Gazan wonderland.

“It is provocative and unacceptable,” he told me just after the president posted the video in February.

Trump must have thought it was funny, so he posted it. He loves anything with his name on it.”

Then came the Trump plan to resettle Palestinians out of Gaza. To this, he released a public statement titled Urgent Press Release.

“Arab-Americans for Trump firmly rejects President Donald J Trump’s suggestion to remove – voluntarily or forcibly – Palestinians in Gaza to Egypt and Jordan,” he said.

He then changed the name of his alliance, dropping Trump. It became Arab-Americans for Peace.

I wondered if the wheels were coming off this unlikely alliance.

Was he realising Trump couldn’t or wouldn’t solve the Palestinian issue? But Dr Bahbah maintained faith in the new president.

“I am worried, but at the same time, Trump might be testing the waters to determine what is acceptable…,” he told me in late February as the war dragged on.

“There is no alternative to the two-state solution.”

He told me that he expected the president and his team to work on the rebuilding of Gaza and work to launch a process that would culminate in the establishment of a Palestinian state, side by side in peace with Israel.

It was, and remains, an expectation at odds with the Trump administration’s official policy.

The phone call

In late April, Dr Bahbah’s phone rang. The man at the other end of the line was Dr Ghazi Hamad, a senior member of Hamas.

Dr Bahbah and Dr Hamad had never met – they did not know each other.

But Hamas had identified Dr Bahbah as the Palestinian-American with the most influence in Trump’s administration.

Dr Hamad suggested that they could work together – to secure the release of all the hostages in return for a permanent ceasefire.

Hamas was already using the Qatari government as a conduit to the Americans but Dr Bahbah represented a second channel through which they hoped they could convince President Trump to increase pressure on Israel.

There is a thread of history which runs through this story. It was the widow of former Palestinian leader Yasser Arafat who passed Dr Bahbah’s number to Dr Hamad.

In the 1990s, Dr Bahbah was part of a Palestinian delegation to the multilateral peace talks.

He became close to Arafat but he had no experience of a negotiation as delicate and intractable as this.

The first step was to build trust. Dr Bahbah contacted Steve Witkoff, Trump’s Middle East envoy.

Witkoff and Bahbah had something in common – one a real-estate mogul, the other an academic, neither had any experience in diplomacy. It represented the perfect manifestation of Trump’s ‘outside the box’ methods.

But Witkoff was sceptical of Dr Bahbah’s proposal at first. Could he really have any success at securing agreement between Israel and Hamas? A gesture to build trust was necessary.

Bahbah claims he told his new Hamas contact that they needed to prove to the Trump administration that they were serious about negotiating.

Within weeks a remarkable moment more than convinced Dr Bahbah and Witkoff that this new Hamas back-channel could be vitally important.

On 12 May, after 584 days in Hamas captivity, Israeli-American Edan Alexander was released.

We were told at the time that his release was a result of a direct deal between Hamas and the US.

Israel was not involved and the deal was described by Hamas as a “good faith” gesture. Dr Bahbah sees it as his deal.

Direct talks took place between Dr Bahbah and five Hamas officials in Doha who would then convey messages back to at least 17 other Hamas leadership figures in both Gaza and Cairo.

Dr Bahbah in turn conveyed Hamas messages back to Witkoff who was not directly involved in the Hamas talks.

A Qatari source told me that Dr Bahbah was “very involved” in the negotiations.

But publicly, the White House has sought to downplay his role, with an official telling Axios in May that “he was involved but tangentially”.

The Israeli government was unaware of his involvement until their own spies discovered the backchannel discussion about the release of Alexander.

Since that April phone call, Dr Bahbah has remained in the Qatari capital, with trips to Cairo, trying to help secure a final agreement.

He is taking no payment from anyone for his work.

As he told me when we first met back in January: “If I can do something to help to end this war and secure a future for the Palestinian people, I will.”

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Inside Iran’s notorious Evin Prison – as Tehran says damage shows Israel targeted civilians

Published

23 hours ago

July 4, 2025

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Inside Iran's notorious Evin Prison - as Tehran says damage shows Israel targeted civilians

It is one of the most notorious and secret places in Iran.

Somewhere foreign journalists are never allowed to visit or film. The prison where dissidents and critics of Iran’s government disappear – some never to be seen again.

But we went there today, invited by Iranian authorities eager to show the damage done there by Israel.

Evin Prison was hit by Israeli airstrikes the day before a ceasefire ended a 12-day war with Iran. The damage is much greater than thought at the time.

We walked through what’s left of its gates, now a mass of rubble and twisted metal, among just a handful of foreign news media allowed in.

A few hundred yards in, we were shown a building Iranians say was the prison’s hospital.

Behind iron bars, every one of the building’s windows had been blown in. Medical equipment and hospital beds had been ripped apart and shredded.

It felt eerie being somewhere normally shut off to the outside world.

On the hill above us, untouched by the airstrikes, the buildings where inmates are incarcerated in reportedly horrific conditions, ominous watch towers silhouetted against the sky.

Evin felt rundown and neglected. There was something ineffably sad and oppressive about the atmosphere as we wandered through the compound.

The Iranians had their reasons to bring us here. The authorities say at least 71 people were killed in the air strikes, some of them inmates, but also visiting family members.

Iran says this is evidence that Israel was not just targeting military or nuclear sites but civilian locations too.

But the press visit highlighted the prison’s notoriety too.

Iran’s critics and human rights groups say Evin is synonymous with the brutal oppression of political prisoners and opponents, and its practice of hostage diplomacy too.

British dual nationals, including Nazanin Zaghari-Ratcliffe were held here for years before being released in 2022 in exchange for concessions from the UK.

Interviewed about the Israeli airstrikes at the time, Ms Zaghari-Ratcliffe showed only characteristic empathy with her former fellow inmates. Trapped in their cells, she said they must have been terrified.

The Israelis have not fully explained why they put Evin on their target list, but on the same day, the Israeli military said it was “attacking regime targets and government repression bodies in the heart of Tehran”.

The locus of their strikes were the prison’s two entrances. If they were trying to enable a jailbreak, they failed. No one is reported to have escaped, several inmates are thought to have died.

The breaches the Israeli missiles made in the jail’s perimeter are being closed again quickly. We filmed as a team of masons worked to shut off the outside world again, brick by brick.