There is a long queue of people waiting to board the ferry from the coastal city of Xiamen in southeast China.
There are families with children, a number of older people and many others lugging huge suitcases laden with cheap goods.
They board quickly and take seats inside the small boat, there’s a sense many of them take this trip regularly.
Their journey is a short one, fewer than 10 miles lasting only about half an hour, but they are passing between two places with an increasingly tense and fractious relationship: China and Taiwan.
Indeed, this ferry links Chinese Xiamen with the Kinmen Islands, an outlying territory of Taiwan situated over 100 miles from the Taiwanese mainland, but just a few miles from China’s coast.
They are so close that even on a misty day you can see one from the other, at low tide the very closest points are a mere two kilometres apart and there is a history of defectors successfully swimming between them.
But these islands and the short journey between them offer a vantage point of sorts, a perspective on the complex, intertwined relationship between China and Taiwan, the struggle over what their future should be and, crucially, the threat that one poses to the other.
Those issues are coming into sharp focus this week as Taiwan heads to the polls to pick a new president.
As a self-governing island that China views as a breakaway province, elections are always contentious, and this time promises to be no exception.
The current ruling party’s candidate, Lai Ching-te, is most likely to win, his Democratic Progressive Party (DPP) takes the hardest line against China, and with a history of making pro-independence statements, his election will be highly provoking to Beijing.
In the run-up China has maintained military pressure on Taiwan such as flying warplanes towards the island, while one official framed the vote as a choice between “war and peace”.
On Kinmen itself an awareness of its vulnerability is everywhere.
The beaches are lined with historic defensive spikes and bunkers, there are multiple imposing army bases and military trucks are a regular sight on the roads.
Experts say that while Kinmen would not be a key focus of any Chinese invasion, it would likely be a first port of call.
Image: Historic defences on a beach on Taiwan’s Kinmen Islands, just across the water from China
Image: An historic bunker on a beach on the Kinmen Islands, which could be re-used if China invaded
‘People are unhappy and angry’
This is what 36-year-old Wenchi Lan believes. He previously served in the army and is now a keen follower of military issues and an expert on Kinmen’s historic military sites.
He thinks that while war isn’t imminent, it is possible and shows us a bag he has prepared for that eventuality, including torches, medicine and a wallet stuffed with Chinese currency to “pay-off the invading troops”, he says.
As a young voter his support lies with Lai Ching-te, the DPP, he believes, is the party most likely stand up to the Chinese threat.
“Emotionally due to the constant state of intimidation, people are definitely unhappy and angry,” he says, “China’s continuous showing of military threat is counter-productive.
“The threat from China directly influences my families’ assessment of the candidates and their attitudes towards cross-strait relations.
“Older people tend to believe that the country should prioritise peace over the nation, consider peace first and then the nation second.”
He continues: “However my family and I believe the order should be reversed, we think the nation should come first and then we can discuss how to engage in equal exchanges.”
Image: Wenchi Lan has prepared an emergency kit for him and his wife for if China invades
Image: Taiwan’s current vice president and DPP candidate for president Lai Ching-te alongside his running mate Hsiao Bi-khim on a campaign poster
‘Both Taiwan and the mainland belong to Chinese culture’
But the views of many on Kinmen are a little more nuanced, heavily influenced by the deep historical as well as cultural and linguistic ties with the mainland.
In fact many here continue to see themselves as culturally Chinese, “I am a Fujian person”, one woman proudly tells us.
And that closeness means that many here vote for the opposition KMT party which advocates more dialogue and a closer relationship with Beijing.
This is also a place where Chinese efforts to win the hearts and minds of Taiwanese people have made significant inroads.
State supported cultural exchanges are just one tactic.
Shih Tsung Chen’s choir has taken part in such exchanges, journeying to the mainland to perform.
At the small church in Kinmen where they gather to practice a mixture of Taiwanese and Chinese cultural songs, he tells us that most people here want a relationship with China, but one based on peace.
“Politically, we belong to Taiwan, but in terms of culture, I feel that we are quite close to the mainland. This closeness may even surpass Taiwan itself,” he says.
Image: Shih Tsung Chen is critical of the ruling DPP for ’emphasising Taiwan’s independence’
In fact when it comes to rising tensions with China, he blames the DPP.
“Taiwan’s main issue now is because the ruling party has been emphasising Taiwan’s independence,” he says.
“I think that the division between the two sides, Taiwan and the mainland, is not correct. Both Taiwan and the mainland belong to Chinese culture. So, fundamentally, trying to separate them is not right. From my perspective, Taiwan’s ruling party bears a larger responsibility.”
A KMT victory might reduce tensions across the strait for a time, but it almost certainly won’t resolve the underlying disagreement.
It is unclear at the moment how China will respond to the vote, but any escalation of tensions may well be felt first by the people of Kinmen.
“We call drones our loyal friends, because they never leave us.”
Tasneem hears Israeli drones overhead, a constant fact of life in Gaza. It gets into your head, into your chest, she says.
“You can’t think, you can’t sleep. You can’t even be.”
“It’s always there, hanging above our heads, like some kind of punishment,” she says. In the background, the slow, constant buzz of a drone is audible.
“The people here in Gaza know that when the drone gets very low, at this level, something will happen. We all know what that something is… I don’t want to mention it.”
Image: Tasneem al Iwini shared voicenotes with Sky News
Tasneem al Iwini is 24. Like her peers across the world, she splits her time between work, studying for a master’s degree and spending time with her family of six.
Except she also has to deal with warplanes screaming overhead, rocketing food prices and the possibility that any day could be the last for her or her loved ones as Israel continues its war in Gaza.
To give a sense of what day-to-day life is like for her in Deir al Balah, Tasneem recorded a series of audio diary entries over the course of a week as part of her work with ActionAid and shared them exclusively with Sky News.
Image: Smoke rises over Deir al Balah. Pic: Reuters
Day One: At least I’m still breathing
It’s incredibly hot today,Tasneem says. The kind of heat that makes your skin heavy and your thoughts slower.
I had so many things to do on my plate today, but honestly, I couldn’t move.
There’s no electricity and no fans, no air conditioner. So here I am just laying on my mattress and sweating.
My only relief is my plastic tray. I’m just using it as my personal fan…
I keep waving it back and forth, not to cool the room, but just to trick my brain into thinking I have control over this heat.
Sometimes I close my eyes and imagine I’m somewhere cold, as I actually prefer winter.
But then I hear the buzz of flies and mosquitoes in my ear and I remember this is Gaza, summer 2025. It’s exhausting, but at least I’m still breathing.
Day Two: Rocketing price of food
It’s Friday, which is a special day for us as it is the day we usually wait to cook something special. Today we are cooking maqluba (a traditional dish consisting of meat, rice and fried vegetables).
We haven’t tasted any kind of real protein like meat, chicken or fish for more than three months. I really miss chicken and fish badly.
But even this fake maqluba costs a lot, so many families can’t afford it… vegetables are very expensive.
Image: Tasneem prepares meals with what she can get. Pic: Tasneem/ActionAid
Before the war we used to cook maqluba with at least four kilos of eggplants, because we are crazy about eggplants and its taste in maqluba . Now, if we manage to cook it with only two eggplants, that’s considered a luxury.
The price of one kilo of eggplant is more than 45 shekels. That’s approximately $12.50. Talking about tomatoes, the price is more than 90 shekels, which is approximately $27 per kilo.
Here we go again. Our dear friend, the drone, Tasneem says as a buzzing noise hums in the background.
It just never leaves. It’s always there hanging above our heads like some kind of punishment.
The sound, I don’t even know how to describe it.
It’s not just noise. It gets into your head, into your chest. You can’t think, you can’t sleep, you can’t even be.
It drains something inside you slowly, and yet we live with it every day.
Later on:
Hi again. I’m just recording the gunfire. We are not sure what is happening outside, actually.
I can say that this is almost an every afternoon routine.
Image: Tasneem al Iwini speaking about conditions in Gaza
Day Four: A message to the world
Today I came across a small community kitchen, one of the very few still functioning.
Because of the current situation, especially the scarcity of food and the near-total blockade on the humanitarian aid, most of these kitchens have shut down…
Image: Smoke rises following an Israeli strike in Deir al Balah. Pic: Reuters
Tasneem says that just after she left the office, the community kitchen was hit in an Israeli strike.
Three youths were killed, and many children were injured.
Those children were playing around and nearby the kitchen…
This time I went to send a message to the world, with a heavy heart burdened by the challenges and the impossible conditions we live under.
I still hold on to hope that this war will end… Because honestly, here in Gaza, we have lost trust in the world, governments and every actor.
Day Five: How many children must die?
Good evening, dear friends. I don’t really know what to say. I feel like my heart is just a drain.
Yesterday I promised to take you through the rest of my day, but honestly, I came home feeling exhausted…
I bought just two cucumbers, and that cost me $8. Yes, $8 for two cucumbers.
This is what it means to say that even the basics have become impossible to get in Gaza.
I came home, washed the cucumbers and cut them into small pieces so all of us could taste what it feels like to eat cucumber.
Tomatoes are even worse. They are completely unaffordable in the market.
Image: Palestinians gather at an aid distribution centre. Pic: Reuters
And every time I think about the situation we are living through here in Gaza, I feel like I’m out of patience. I just can’t take more.
How many of us have to die before the world decides to intervene? And how many children must die, not from bombing or shelling, but from starvation and malnutrition?
Today, the telecommunications company in Gaza announced that in the next 24 hours it is expected that internet services will shut down again because of the fuel shortage and because of the occupation, who continue to block fuel from entering the Strip.
And this does not mean losing the internet only. It means patients in the ICUs will lose connection to life. It means ambulances, fridges for medications and blood, even water pumps for both drinking and domestic use will stop working.
I was planning today to come home and study for my final exams, but I just sat there for a moment thinking about our reality.
And I couldn’t, I couldn’t do anything. So instead, I decided to record this for you. This is what Gaza looks like right now.
Day Seven: The cemetery is full… and the horror of jets overhead
There are many types of weapons being used… and here in Gaza, we the people have learned to genuinely distinguish between them.
We know each sound by heart.
For example, we know the sound of the F-16 (fighter jet) very well. We can even guess when it has a target.
It has a special tone, like it’s rushing towards something. There is a tension in the air, and we feel it in our bodies.
Whenever I hear one of them, I swear I feel like this is the last moment of my life. I cover my ears with both hands and run to stay nearby my family, because in this moment my heart tells me, if something happens, let it happen to all of us together.
I know that’s not how it works, but that’s how I cope. That’s the only way I feel some false sense of control…
Sometimes it feels like the pilot is showing off, flying lower over the heads of women, children and civilians, as if to say: “Look at me. I can do this.”
Every time the jets go low, I start praying, I do everything I can as if it is the end of my life.
Image: A Palestinian boy walks amid debris after strikes in Deir al Balah. Pic: AP
In another voicenote from the same day, Tasneem talked about her walk to work.
I pass by the cemetery every day. Today, I saw a situation that truly broke my heart.
There was a group of angry people gathered around the person who is responsible for digging graves.
They were shouting, saying the cemetery is completely full, and now they have started opening all the graves without knowing who is buried there and without getting any consent from the families of the dead.
They are placing new dead bodies on the top of the old ones, whether they are men, women or children.
Please use Chrome browser for a more accessible video player
3:06
‘Many people here prefer death over displacement’
Most people were furious, and honestly, I was so disappointed and heartbroken when I saw this.
This is one of those things I wish I never had to witness, but I wanted to share it with you, because it says so much about how bad things have become.
‘Critical moment’ for Gaza
Tasneem works with the Palestinian NGOs Network in Gaza and has partnered with ActionAid in the UK.
A spokesperson for ActionAid UK said: “Humanitarian workers like Tasneem are risking their lives every day to support and advocate for their fellow Palestinians in Gaza, despite experiencing the same intolerable conditions that they are.
“Just imagine having to go to work when you haven’t had a proper meal in days, knowing that at any moment you could be killed by bombing: that is their daily reality. Yet still, people like Tasneem are bravely speaking out and telling their stories so that the world knows the truth about the horrors they are facing…
“This is a critical moment. It’s time for the world to take meaningful action and use every diplomatic lever available to bring about a permanent ceasefire and end the siege on Gaza immediately so that food and other aid can enter unhindered, rapidly and at scale.”
“We call drones our loyal friends, because they never leave us.”
Tasneem hears Israeli drones overhead, a constant fact of life in Gaza. It gets into your head, into your chest, she says.
“You can’t think, you can’t sleep. You can’t even be.”
“It’s always there, hanging above our heads, like some kind of punishment,” she says. In the background, the slow, constant buzz of a drone is audible.
“The people here in Gaza know that when the drone gets very low, at this level, something will happen. We all know what that something is… I don’t want to mention it.”
Image: Tasneem al Iwini shared voicenotes with Sky News
Tasneem al Iwini is 24. Like her peers across the world, she splits her time between work, studying for a master’s degree and spending time with her family of six.
Except she also has to deal with warplanes screaming overhead, rocketing food prices and the possibility that any day could be the last for her or her loved ones as Israel continues its war in Gaza.
To give a sense of what day-to-day life is like for her in Deir al Balah, Tasneem recorded a series of audio diary entries over the course of a week as part of her work with ActionAid and shared them exclusively with Sky News.
Image: Smoke rises over Deir al Balah. Pic: Reuters
Day One: At least I’m still breathing
It’s incredibly hot today,Tasneem says. The kind of heat that makes your skin heavy and your thoughts slower.
I had so many things to do on my plate today, but honestly, I couldn’t move.
There’s no electricity and no fans, no air conditioner. So here I am just laying on my mattress and sweating.
My only relief is my plastic tray. I’m just using it as my personal fan…
I keep waving it back and forth, not to cool the room, but just to trick my brain into thinking I have control over this heat.
Sometimes I close my eyes and imagine I’m somewhere cold, as I actually prefer winter.
But then I hear the buzz of flies and mosquitoes in my ear and I remember this is Gaza, summer 2025. It’s exhausting, but at least I’m still breathing.
Day Two: Rocketing price of food
It’s Friday, which is a special day for us as it is the day we usually wait to cook something special. Today we are cooking maqluba (a traditional dish consisting of meat, rice and fried vegetables).
We haven’t tasted any kind of real protein like meat, chicken or fish for more than three months. I really miss chicken and fish badly.
But even this fake maqluba costs a lot, so many families can’t afford it… vegetables are very expensive.
Image: Tasneem prepares meals with what she can get. Pic: Tasneem/ActionAid
Before the war we used to cook maqluba with at least four kilos of eggplants, because we are crazy about eggplants and its taste in maqluba . Now, if we manage to cook it with only two eggplants, that’s considered a luxury.
The price of one kilo of eggplant is more than 45 shekels. That’s approximately $12.50. Talking about tomatoes, the price is more than 90 shekels, which is approximately $27 per kilo.
Here we go again. Our dear friend, the drone, Tasneem says as a buzzing noise hums in the background.
It just never leaves. It’s always there hanging above our heads like some kind of punishment.
The sound, I don’t even know how to describe it.
It’s not just noise. It gets into your head, into your chest. You can’t think, you can’t sleep, you can’t even be.
It drains something inside you slowly, and yet we live with it every day.
Later on:
Hi again. I’m just recording the gunfire. We are not sure what is happening outside, actually.
I can say that this is almost an every afternoon routine.
Image: Tasneem al Iwini speaking about conditions in Gaza
Day Four: A message to the world
Today I came across a small community kitchen, one of the very few still functioning.
Because of the current situation, especially the scarcity of food and the near-total blockade on the humanitarian aid, most of these kitchens have shut down…
Image: Smoke rises following an Israeli strike in Deir al Balah. Pic: Reuters
Tasneem says that just after she left the office, the community kitchen was hit in an Israeli strike.
Three youths were killed, and many children were injured.
Those children were playing around and nearby the kitchen…
This time I went to send a message to the world, with a heavy heart burdened by the challenges and the impossible conditions we live under.
I still hold on to hope that this war will end… Because honestly, here in Gaza, we have lost trust in the world, governments and every actor.
Day Five: How many children must die?
Good evening, dear friends. I don’t really know what to say. I feel like my heart is just a drain.
Yesterday I promised to take you through the rest of my day, but honestly, I came home feeling exhausted…
I bought just two cucumbers, and that cost me $8. Yes, $8 for two cucumbers.
This is what it means to say that even the basics have become impossible to get in Gaza.
I came home, washed the cucumbers and cut them into small pieces so all of us could taste what it feels like to eat cucumber.
Tomatoes are even worse. They are completely unaffordable in the market.
Image: Palestinians gather at an aid distribution centre. Pic: Reuters
And every time I think about the situation we are living through here in Gaza, I feel like I’m out of patience. I just can’t take more.
How many of us have to die before the world decides to intervene? And how many children must die, not from bombing or shelling, but from starvation and malnutrition?
Today, the telecommunications company in Gaza announced that in the next 24 hours it is expected that internet services will shut down again because of the fuel shortage and because of the occupation, who continue to block fuel from entering the Strip.
And this does not mean losing the internet only. It means patients in the ICUs will lose connection to life. It means ambulances, fridges for medications and blood, even water pumps for both drinking and domestic use will stop working.
I was planning today to come home and study for my final exams, but I just sat there for a moment thinking about our reality.
And I couldn’t, I couldn’t do anything. So instead, I decided to record this for you. This is what Gaza looks like right now.
Day Seven: The cemetery is full… and the horror of jets overhead
There are many types of weapons being used… and here in Gaza, we the people have learned to genuinely distinguish between them.
We know each sound by heart.
For example, we know the sound of the F-16 (fighter jet) very well. We can even guess when it has a target.
It has a special tone, like it’s rushing towards something. There is a tension in the air, and we feel it in our bodies.
Whenever I hear one of them, I swear I feel like this is the last moment of my life. I cover my ears with both hands and run to stay nearby my family, because in this moment my heart tells me, if something happens, let it happen to all of us together.
I know that’s not how it works, but that’s how I cope. That’s the only way I feel some false sense of control…
Sometimes it feels like the pilot is showing off, flying lower over the heads of women, children and civilians, as if to say: “Look at me. I can do this.”
Every time the jets go low, I start praying, I do everything I can as if it is the end of my life.
Image: A Palestinian boy walks amid debris after strikes in Deir al Balah. Pic: AP
In another voicenote from the same day, Tasneem talked about her walk to work.
I pass by the cemetery every day. Today, I saw a situation that truly broke my heart.
There was a group of angry people gathered around the person who is responsible for digging graves.
They were shouting, saying the cemetery is completely full, and now they have started opening all the graves without knowing who is buried there and without getting any consent from the families of the dead.
They are placing new dead bodies on the top of the old ones, whether they are men, women or children.
Please use Chrome browser for a more accessible video player
3:06
‘Many people here prefer death over displacement’
Most people were furious, and honestly, I was so disappointed and heartbroken when I saw this.
This is one of those things I wish I never had to witness, but I wanted to share it with you, because it says so much about how bad things have become.
‘Critical moment’ for Gaza
Tasneem works with the Palestinian NGOs Network in Gaza and has partnered with ActionAid in the UK.
A spokesperson for ActionAid UK said: “Humanitarian workers like Tasneem are risking their lives every day to support and advocate for their fellow Palestinians in Gaza, despite experiencing the same intolerable conditions that they are.
“Just imagine having to go to work when you haven’t had a proper meal in days, knowing that at any moment you could be killed by bombing: that is their daily reality. Yet still, people like Tasneem are bravely speaking out and telling their stories so that the world knows the truth about the horrors they are facing…
“This is a critical moment. It’s time for the world to take meaningful action and use every diplomatic lever available to bring about a permanent ceasefire and end the siege on Gaza immediately so that food and other aid can enter unhindered, rapidly and at scale.”
More than 63,000 Palestinians have now reportedly been killed during Israel’s war in Gaza, a figure likely to rise after the IDF declared Gaza City a combat zone on Friday.
The number of people killed, reported by the Hamas-run Gaza health ministry, follows nearly 23 months of war.
Image: A mourner during the funeral of Palestinians killed while trying to receive aid. Pic: Reuters
Israel on Friday claimed the city was a Hamas stronghold and alleged that a network of tunnels remains in use despite several previous large-scale raids on the area.
Israeli army spokesperson Avichay Adraee urged Palestinians to flee south, calling evacuation of the city “inevitable”.
But the head of the Red Cross warned it would be impossible to keep people safe during such a mass evacuation.
Many people in Gaza City would not be able to follow evacuation orders because they are starving, sick or injured, Mirjana Spoljaric said.
Image: Palestinians are being urged to flee Gaza City by the Israeli military. Pic: Reuters
International humanitarian law requires Israel to ensure civilians have access to shelter, safety and nutrition, when evacuation orders are issued.
“These conditions cannot currently be met in Gaza. This makes any evacuation not only unfeasible but incomprehensible under the present circumstances,” Ms Spoljaric added.
Meanwhile, the Israel Defense Forces (IDF) announced it had targeted Abu Obeida, a spokesperson for Hamas’s armed wing, in a strike on Gaza City, according to Israeli media.
And Mr Netanyahu later said the body of hostage Idan Shtivi was retrieved from Gaza.
Image: A Palestinian child waits to receive food from a charity kitchen. Pic: Reuters
Four people were killed by Israeli gunfire on Saturday while trying to get aid in central Gaza, according to health officials at Awda hospital, where the bodies were brought.
Their deaths join the almost 1,900 people who the UN say have been killed while seeking food since 27 May, including more than 1,000 killed in the vicinity of the controversial Gaza Humanitarian Foundation sites.
“Most of these killings appear to have been committed by the Israeli military,” a spokesperson for the UN High Commissioner for Human Rights Thameen Al-Kheetan said.
Israel has previously blamed Hamas militants for fomenting chaos and endangering civilians at aid sites.
The conflict began with a Hamas-led attack on Israel on 7 October 2023, which saw around 1,200 people killed and about 250 people taken hostage.