The mile-long strip in Ecuador’s port city of Esmeraldas is rocking to the sound of Latin beats and laughter.
The main road on the beachfront is bordered by the blue sea and white sands of the Pacific Ocean on one side, and packed bars and restaurants on the other. It’s summertime, it’s carnival, and it’s party time.
The hotels have somewhere over 70% occupancy and in the best restaurants one has to queue for a table, albeit while nursing an ice-cold cocktail as you wait.
This could be any hot tourist destination, from Rio de Janeiro to the Caribbean, to Florida, to Spain. I’m fortunate enough to have visited all of them.
There is a difference here though.
As one crosses the road to get an ice cream, for example, you have to make sure you aren’t in the way of a patrol of heavily armed, balaclava-wearing, body-armoured marines who are a constant presence – sometimes patrolling in their vehicles, sometimes on foot.
It looks normal, it feels normal, but it isn’t.
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The city of Esmeraldas, and Ecuador as a whole, is at war with the drug gangs, and while the security forces are winning at the moment, the war is anything but over.
Just a few weeks ago Esmeraldas was a no-go zone, indeed even now very few international journalists or foreigners have visited this coastal city.
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The beaches and streets were empty then, and hotels had near zero occupancy.
Restaurants were shut and bars were open to just a few regulars.
Image: Heavily armed marines patrol the beach
Violence and insurrection spread across Ecuador
The drug gangs and their Mexican cartel bosses were murdering people, exploding car bombs, and promising insurrection after the president of Ecuador put in place a nationwide crackdown on their business interests and their complete disregard for the rule of law – even democracy.
Daniel Noboa, the 36-year-old president of Ecuador, launched the crackdown after notorious drug gangster Adolfo “Fito” Macias escaped from prison in Guayaquil.
Violence and insurrection spread across the country after his escape, and Esmeraldas quickly became a big problem. Its murder rate spiked, making it one of the most dangerous cities in the world at the time.
Image: Ecuador’s President Daniel Noboa. Pic: AP
‘They aren’t afraid anymore, they are free’
President Noboa needed someone to sort it out. He made the call one morning.
The man who answered was the retired former police chief of Esmeraldas, now living in the United States.
The president said he needed help. The man he rang nodded his agreement, hung up, told his wife, and took the next flight home to Ecuador.
Image: Javier Buitron talks to Stuart Ramsay as his bodyguard walks behind
I met Javier Buitron beside the sea in Esmeraldas, his bodyguards a constant presence.
He is now the governor of Esmeraldas.
“People didn’t leave their houses, they were scared they would be killed,” he told me.
“Now I am happy because they aren’t afraid anymore, they are free, the people are free and are now enjoying this place, in the bars, enjoying the streets, and now enjoying the beach.”
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Inside a high security prison in Esmeraldas
Authorities regain control
Working alongside the police and the military, Mr Buitron is credited with turning this whole place around in just 26 days.
The authorities now have control of the streets. They have also regained control of the local prison, and officers and soldiers can enter neighbourhoods they couldn’t go into before including an area where the gangs had aligned themselves to the Sinaloa and Jalisco New Generation cartels from Mexico.
Before, Mr Buitron said, for a few grim weeks, bodies were hanging from bridges in that part of Esmeraldas, a tell-tale sign of the presence of Mexico’s most powerful cartels in these very neighbourhoods.
Image: A bridge where bodies were hanged from
Residents celebrate changes
I visited the area and spoke to the residents, who said it was a nightmare, and that they were happy things were changing.
“I feel very grateful personally, because here before, at this time of the day, you couldn’t even be out here, bullets would rain down from the other side, from side to side, but now you see, we are calm, we are at peace,” a man named Leonardo told me, speaking from his front door.
Image: Leonardo says he is happy things are changing
His neighbour Andrea agreed: “Things have gotten a lot better, it has changed a lot,” she said. “Now you can go around, you no longer hear shootings like before, you don’t hear that anymore, it has changed a lot.”
Image: Andrea says ‘things have gotten a lot better’
Governor makes sure he is visible among public
Even though the gangs want the governor dead, he makes sure he is present and visible, day and night – with permanent security at his side.
People here in Esmeraldas treat him like a rockstar.
Image: Mr Buitron hugs a woman
At the beachfront we can’t walk for more than 10 minutes or so at a time on the main promenade without someone stopping him to talk, ask for a selfie, or simply say thanks.
I have never seen a politician treated with so much reverence before.
He said seeing people this happy makes him happy, and it encourages him to keep going.
“We need to recover people’s faith, we need to recover the economy, and we need good things for people, opportunities,” he said.
“Every day we are working, we don’t have time to rest, we have to work hard every day, because I am here to solve problems.”
A further 70 people have been injured, including more than 40 who were described as critically ill in hospital on Wednesday night. Around 900 people are also in shelters as a result of the blaze.
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Deadly blaze destroys Hong Kong tower blocks
Police have alleged its cause could have been a “grossly negligent” construction firm using unsafe materials.
Three people – two directors and an engineering consultant – have been arrested on suspicion of manslaughter.
“We have reason to believe that the company’s responsible parties were grossly negligent, which led to this accident and caused the fire to spread uncontrollably, resulting in major casualties,” said police superintendent Eileen Chung. Police have not named the company.
The complex, built in the 1980s, had been under renovation for a year.
Image: Smoke rising from the Wang Fuk Court residential complex. Pic: AP Photo/Chan Long Hei
Image: The fire broke out on Wednesday afternoon. Pic: Reuters
Image: Dozens of people remain in hospital, some are critically injured. Pic: AP Photo/Chan Long Hei
One firefighter was among those killed tackling the blaze, which broke out at 2.51pm local time on Wednesday.
Fire crews said they had doused the flames in all seven of the affected blocks by Thursday morning, and were searching each floor for survivors.
Records show the Wang Fuk Court site consists of eight blocks, with almost 2,000 flats housing around 4,800 residents, including many elderly people.
Image: A relative of a resident at the scene. Pic: Reuters
Families have been identifying the bodies of relatives while others have been visiting shelters in the area, searching for missing loved ones.
Hong Kong leader John Lee said on Thursday the government will set up a HK$300m (£29m) fund to help residents.
Image: Charred bamboo and plastic mesh covers the complex, which was undergoing renovation works. Pic: Reuters
Image: Firefighters searching between floors at one of the high-rise blocks. Pic: Reuters
The cause of the fire is being investigated, but it appears to have started in bamboo scaffolding and construction mesh sheets and then spread across seven of the complex’s eight buildings – likely aided by windy conditions.
Bamboo scaffolding is commonly used in Hong Kong, but is in the process of being phased out because of safety concerns.
Hong Kong’s Association for the Rights of Industrial Accident Victims said there have been at least three fires involving bamboo scaffolding this year.
Image: Temporary shelters have been set up for residents. Pic: AP
Image: Supplies are brought to a school which is serving as a shelter. Pic: Kyodo/AP
China’s state broadcaster CCTV said President Xi Jinping has urged an “all-out effort” to extinguish the fire and minimise casualties and losses.
Both the US and British Consulate Generals for Hong Kong have sent condolences to those affected, as has Taiwan’s president.
Image: Parts of the huge complex were still smouldering on Thursday. Pic: AP
Image: Firefighters work to extinguish the blaze. Pic: AP
The number of dead is the highest in a Hong Kong fire since 1948, when 176 people were killed in a warehouse blaze.
The fire has prompted comparisons to the Grenfell Tower blaze which killed 72 people in 2017, blamed on flammable cladding, as well as failings by the government and the construction industry.
“Our hearts go out to all those affected by the horrific fire in Hong Kong,” the Grenfell United survivors’ group said on social media.
“To the families, friends and communities, we stand with you. You are not alone.”
Donald Trump has called for every Afghan national who entered the US under the Biden administration to be investigated following the shooting of two National Guard troops near the White House.
The president said the “monstrous, ambush-style attack” was carried out by an Afghan national who arrived in September 2021 during America’s chaotic withdrawal from Kabul.
“This attack underscores the single greatest national security threat facing our nation,” Mr Trump said in an address to the nation from Florida.
He vowed to “reexamine every single alien” who has entered the US from Afghanistan under the previous government, and said: “I am determined to ensure the animal who perpetrated this atrocity will pay the steepest possible price.”
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Trump condemns ‘animal’ shooting suspect
Suspect to face terror probe
America’s citizenship and immigration office said it had stopped processing all immigration requests relating to Afghan nationals indefinitely.
The suspect in custody is 29-year-old Rahmanullah Lakanwal.
Both guardsmen were shot in the head, according to NBC, citing senior officials briefed on the investigation.
Wednesday’s shooting – carried out with a handgun – will be investigated by the FBI as a possible act of terror.
The White House was placed into lockdown following the incident, while Mr Trump is away for Thanksgiving.
Image: Pics: AP
Victims in ‘critical condition’
West Virginia’s governor initially said both victims were members of his state’s National Guard and had died from their injuries – but later posted to say there were “conflicting reports about the condition of our two Guard members”.
Patrick Morrisey had said: “These brave West Virginians lost their lives in the service of their country.”
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Hundreds of National Guard members have been patrolling the capital after Mr Trump issued an emergency order in August, which federalised the local police force and sent in the guard from eight states and the District of Columbia.
Mr Trump has announced an extra 500 troops will be deployed in the wake of Wednesday’s shooting.
FBI director Kash Patel said the troops were “brazenly attacked in a horrendous act of violence”.
At a news conference, he clarified they were in a “critical condition”.
Image: Pic: AP
Former president Joe Biden, who was heavily criticised by Mr Trump in his address, said he and his wife Jill were “heartbroken” by the shooting.
“Violence of any kind is unacceptable, and we must all stand united against it,” said a statement.
Analysis: Trump’s statement could embolden anti-immigration Americans
US correspondent Mark Stone said it was expected that Trump’s statement would have an update on the investigation and the victims’ condition.
“What struck me was the president’s decision to be so political and to make the point as he wanted to, it seemed, that this will now embolden him to find out who else might be here illegally, wherever they may be from,” Stone said.
“And he singled out Somalis in Minnesota, of course, a Democratic-run state.”
Stone said Trump’s statement could further embolden those who already hold anti-immigration sentiments.
“You might expect a leader in this sort of situation to deal with the facts as he knows them and to call for unity. But it’s not Trump’s style to do that.”
How the attack unfolded
Jeff Carroll, chief of the metropolitan police department in the area, said the attack began at 2.15pm local time (7.15pm in the UK) while National Guard members were on “high visibility patrols in the area”.
He said: “A suspect came around the corner, raised his arm with a firearm and discharged it at the National Guard.
“The National Guard members were… able to – after some back and forth – able to subdue the individual and bring them into custody.”
Washington DC mayor Muriel Bowser called the attack a “targeted shooting”.
Image: Pics: AP
Social media footage showed first responders attempting CPR on one of the soldiers as they treated the other on a pavement covered in glass.
Nearby other officers could be seen restraining an individual on the ground.
Image: Emergency personnel cordon off an area near where the National Guard soldiers were shot. Pics: AP
The scene was cordoned off by police tape, while agents from the US Secret Service and Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms and Explosives attended the scene, as National Guard troops stood sentry nearby.
The FBI was also on the scene, the agency’s director said.
Pope Leo has arrived in Turkey on his first foreign visit since his inauguration in May.
The pontiff wants to use the trip to push for world peace. His visit comes at a crucial time in efforts to end the war in Ukraineand ease Middle East tensions.
Ankara has hosted rounds of low-level talks between Russia and Ukraine and has offered to take part in the stabilisation force in Gaza to help uphold the fragile ceasefire.
Leo landed in the capital city on Thursday afternoon ahead of a meeting with president Recep Tayyip Erdogan, as he began a three-day itinerary in Turkey before a visit to Lebanon on Sunday.
Image: Pope Leo and Turkish President Recep Tayyip Erdogan at the presidential palace in Ankara, Turkey. Pic: Reuters
Leo, the first American pope, chose Turkey as his first overseas destination to mark the 1,700th anniversary of a landmark early Church council there that produced the Nicene Creed, which lays out what remain the core beliefs of most Christians today.
Speaking to journalists aboard the flight from Rome, Leo said: “We hope to… announce, transmit, proclaim how important peace is throughout the world. And to invite all people to come together, to search for greater unity, greater harmony.”
The Pope was welcomed on the tarmac of Ankara’s Esenboga Airport by a military guard of honour and was greeted by a delegation led by the nation’s culture and tourism minister.
Image: Pope Leo arrives in Ankara, Turkey. Pic: Reuters
The Pope went on to visit Anitkabir, the mausoleum of modern Turkey’s founder Mustafa Kemal Ataturk.
Image: Pope Leo visits Anitkabir, the mausoleum of modern Turkey’s founder Mustafa Kemal Ataturk. Pic: Reuters
Image: Pic: Reuters
Leo’s Mercedes limousine then received a horse-mounted escort to the presidential palace, where he was greeted by Mr Erdogan, officials and senior church members.
The pontiff praised Turkey’s historic role as a bridge between east and west and the crossroads of religions and cultures.
“May Turkey be a source of stability and rapprochement between peoples, in services of a just and lasting peace,” he said.
“Today, more than ever, we need people who will promote dialogue and practice it with firm will and patient resolve.”
Leo, 70, was elected in May by the world’s Catholic cardinals to succeed the late Pope Francis.
Francis had been planning to visit Turkey and Lebanon but was unable to go because of his worsening health.
In a departure from normal practice, Leo is expected to speak English in his speeches in Turkey, a country of more than 85 million predominantly Sunni Muslims.
Peace is also expected to be a key theme of Leo’s visit to Lebanon.
The country, which has the highest percentage of Christians in the Middle East, has been rocked by the spillover of the Gaza conflict.
Significantly, Leo will not visit Lebanon’s south, battered by last year’s war between Israel and the Lebanese militant group Hezbollah and the site of intensified Israeli strikes in recent weeks.
Foreign travel has become a major part of the modern papacy.
Popes can attract huge international attention as they head events with crowds sometimes in the millions, give foreign policy speeches and conduct international diplomacy.
Leo was a relative unknown on the world stage before his election. He spent decades as a missionary in Peru and only became a Vatican official in 2023.