The fashion designer Mary Quant has died, her family have said.
She was 93 and well-known as a pioneer of the mini-skirt and hot pants.
The Victoria & Albert Museum website says there is “no conclusive evidence” to say who first adopted a mini-skirt look.
But for Dame Mary, it became a trademark of her style.
She was one of the most influential figures in the fashion scene of the 1960s and is credited with making fashion accessible to the masses with her sleek, streamlined and vibrant designs.
Image: Dame Mary named the mini-skirt after her favourite make of car
A statement released on behalf of her family said: “Dame Mary Quant died peacefully at home in Surrey, UK, this morning.
“Dame Mary, aged 93, was one of the most internationally recognised fashion designers of the 20th century and an outstanding innovator of the Swinging Sixties.
“She opened her first shop Bazaar in the Kings Road in 1955 and her far-sighted and creative talents quickly established a unique contribution to British fashion.”
Bazaar was one of the few shops in London that offered a radically different shopping experience – with loud music, free drinks and late opening hours.
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Image: The fashion designer at Selfridges in London in 1987. Pic: AP
Alexandra Shulman, former editor-in-chief of British Vogue, paid tribute to Dame Mary, writing on Twitter: “RIP Dame Mary Quant. A leader of fashion but also in female entrepreneurship – a visionary who was much more than a great haircut.”
The V&A Museum, which recently hosted an exhibition about Dame Mary’s designs, tweeted: “It’s impossible to overstate Quant’s contribution to fashion.
“She represented the joyful freedom of 1960s fashion, and provided a new role model for young women.
“Fashion today owes so much to her trailblazing vision.”
Image: Dame Mary pictured in 1970. Pic: AP
Jenny Lister, the curator of the Dame Mary Quant exhibition at the V&A, said the fashion designer “blasted through barriers of snobbery and tradition” and will “always represent the joyful freedom of fashion in the 1960s”.
“With her unique sense of humour, style, and determination to democratise and share the fun and creativity of her designs, she provided a new kind of role model for young women, creating a space for them to be themselves,” she said.
“She helped to define Britain’s global identity as a centre of streetstyle and innovation, with signature looks such as PVC macs, colourful tights, and the skinny-rib sweater.”
Dame Mary was the daughter of two Welsh teachers but was born in Blackheath, London, in 1930.
She gained a diploma in the 1950s in art education at Goldsmiths College, where she met her husband Alexander Plunket Greene, who later helped establish her brand.
She was married to him until his death in 1990. The couple had a son, Orlando, who was born in 1970.
In 2014, she was made a dame for services to British fashion in the Queen’s New Year Honours list.
The same year, Dame Mary, who named the mini-skirt after her favourite make of car, recalled its “feeling of freedom and liberation”.
Image: Dame Mary (foreground), with models showcasing her new shoe designs at a 1967 fashion show
She said: “It was the girls on King’s Road who invented the mini. I was making clothes which would let you run and dance and we would make them the length the customer wanted.
“I wore them very short and the customers would say, ‘shorter, shorter’.”
Dame Mary also revolutionised the high street with trousers for women, as well as accessories, tights and make-up, while using the daisy brand design that became synonymous with her creations.
Her clothes were popularised by models Twiggy, Jean Shrimpton and Pattie Boyd, and singer Cilla Black.
Rachel Reeves has told Sky News she is looking at both tax rises and spending cuts in the budget, in her first interview since being briefed on the scale of the fiscal black hole she faces.
“Of course, we’re looking at tax and spending as well,” the chancellor said when asked how she would deal with the country’s economic challenges in her 26 November statement.
Ms Reeves was shown the first draft of the Office for Budget Responsibility’s (OBR) report, revealing the size of the black hole she must fill next month, on Friday 3 October.
She has never previously publicly confirmed tax rises are on the cards in the budget, going out of her way to avoid mentioning tax in interviews two weeks ago.
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12:04
Chancellor pledges not to raise VAT
Cabinet ministers had previously indicated they did not expect future spending cuts would be used to ensure the chancellor met her fiscal rules.
Ms Reeves also responded to questions about whether the economy was in a “doom loop” of annual tax rises to fill annual black holes. She appeared to concede she is trapped in such a loop.
Asked if she could promise she won’t allow the economy to get stuck in a doom loop cycle, Ms Reeves replied: “Nobody wants that cycle to end more than I do.”
Ms Reeves is expected to have to find up to £30bn at the budget to balance the books, after a U-turn on winter fuel and welfare reforms and a big productivity downgrade by the OBR, which means Britain is expected to earn less in future than previously predicted.
Yesterday, the IMF upgraded UK growth projections by 0.1 percentage points to 1.3% of GDP this year – but also trimmed its forecast by 0.1% next year, also putting it at 1.3%.
The UK growth prospects are 0.4 percentage points worse off than the IMF’s projects last autumn. The 1.3% GDP growth would be the second-fastest in the G7, behind the US.
Last night, the chancellor arrived in Washington for the annual IMF and World Bank conference.
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9:43
The big issues facing the UK economy
‘I won’t duck challenges’
In her Sky News interview, Ms Reeves said multiple challenges meant there was a fresh need to balance the books.
“I was really clear during the general election campaign – and we discussed this many times – that I would always make sure the numbers add up,” she said.
“Challenges are being thrown our way – whether that is the geopolitical uncertainties, the conflicts around the world, the increased tariffs and barriers to trade. And now this (OBR) review is looking at how productive our economy has been in the past and then projecting that forward.”
She was clear that relaxing the fiscal rules (the main one being that from 2029-30, the government’s day-to-day spending needs to rely on taxation alone, not borrowing) was not an option, making tax rises all but inevitable.
“I won’t duck those challenges,” she said.
“Of course, we’re looking at tax and spending as well, but the numbers will always add up with me as chancellor because we saw just three years ago what happens when a government, where the Conservatives, lost control of the public finances: inflation and interest rates went through the roof.”
Image: Pic: PA
Blame it on the B word?
Ms Reeves also lay responsibility for the scale of the black hole she’s facing at Brexit, along with austerity and the mini-budget.
This could risk a confrontation with the party’s own voters – one in five (19%) Leave voters backed Labour at the last election, playing a big role in assuring the party’s landslide victory.
The chancellor said: “Austerity, Brexit, and the ongoing impact of Liz Truss’s mini-budget, all of those things have weighed heavily on the UK economy.
“Already, people thought that the UK economy would be 4% smaller because of Brexit.
“Now, of course, we are undoing some of that damage by the deal that we did with the EU earlier this year on food and farming, goods moving between us and the continent, on energy and electricity trading, on an ambitious youth mobility scheme, but there is no doubting that the impact of Brexit is severe and long-lasting.”
Britain must prepare for at least 2C of warming within just 25 years, the government has been advised by its top climate advisers.
That limit is hotter and sooner than most of the previous official advice, and is worse than the 1.5C level most of the world has been trying to stick to.
What is the 1.5C temperature threshold?
Under the 2015 Paris Agreement, countries agreed to try to limit warming to “well below” 2C – and ideally 1.5C.
This new warning from the government’s top advisers, the independent Climate Change Committee (CCC), spells out the risk to the UK in the starkest terms yet.
In a letter today, the CCC said ministers should “at a minimum, prepare the country for the weather extremes that will be experienced if global warming levels reach 2C above pre-industrial levels by 2050”.
It is the first time the committee has recommended such a target, in the hopes of kickstarting efforts to make everything from flooded train tracks to sweltering classrooms more resilient in a hotter world – after years of warnings the country is woefully unprepared.
Image: Periods of drought in England are expected to double at 2C of global warming, compared to the recent average period of 1981 to 2010. Pic: PA
How climate change affects the UK
The UK is already struggling to cope with the drought, flooding, and heat brought by the current 1.4C – “let alone” what is to come, the advisers said.
Just this year, the country battled the second-worst harvest on record and hottest summer ever, which saw an extra 300 Londoners die.
“Though the change from 1.5C and 2C may sound small, the difference in impacts would be substantial,” CCC adviser Professor Richard Betts told Sky News.
It would mean twice as many people at risk of flooding in some areas, and in southern England, 10 times as many days with a very high risk of wildfires – an emerging risk for Britain.
The experts said the mass building the government is currently pushing, including new nuclear power stations and homes, should even be adaptable for 4C of warming in the future – a level unlikely, but which cannot be ruled out.
Image: At 2C, peak average rainfall in the UK is expected to increase by up to 10–15% for the wettest days. Pic: Reuters
Is it too late to stop climate change or limit to 1.5C?
The CCC’s Baroness Brown said in a briefing: “We continue to believe 1.5C is achievable as a long-term goal.
“But clearly the risk it will not be achieved is getting higher, and for risk management we do believe we have to plan for 2C.”
World leaders will discuss their plans to adapt to hotter temperatures at the COP30 climate summit in Brazil in November.
Professor Eric Wolff, who advises the Royal Society, said leaders needed to wake up.
“It is now very challenging even to stay below two degrees,” he told Sky News.
“This is a wake-up call both to continue reducing emissions, but at the same time to prepare our infrastructure and economy for the inevitable climate changes that we are already committed to.”
Premier League chief executive Richard Masters has told Sky News players will take the knee at this weekend’s matches amid ongoing discussions about whether the anti-racism move is still effective.
Captains of the 20 clubs are understood to back the move, although players could decide individually to opt out.
The majority of Women’s Super League teams recently decided against taking the knee in games marking Black History Month, feeling it was no longer meaningful amid a rise in racism.
Image: Arsenal’s Declan Rice takes the knee in a match last season. Pic: Reuters
And in his exclusive interview, Mr Masters raised concerns about the anonymity of social media users posting abuse and questioned whether identity checks were now necessary.
The Premier League wants platforms to do more to change algorithms to stop players seeing the abuse, and to introduce additional protections to stop it reaching their inboxes.
Football frames racism as a societal problem – requiring education – and Sky News accompanied Mr Masters on a school visit in west London, where the Premier League linked up with Brentford.
Image: Premier League chief executive Richard Masters
Taking the knee
This weekend’s matches will highlight the league’s “No Room for Racism” campaign to combat discrimination and promote equality.
It was in 2020, inspired by the Black Lives Matter movement, that Premier League players started to take the knee before kick-off.
But questions about the effectiveness of the gesture have grown.
“It’s always been their choice,” Mr Masters told Sky News of the players. “It’s never been something that has been forced upon them, either collectively or individually. They had another discussion in the summer.
“They’re going to do it really at the No Room for Racism match rounds. We then decide whether they want to continue or stop. So I think they want to make sure whatever they do, it’s effective.”
Image: The Premier League’s ‘No room for racism’ campaign has adorned team kits. Pic: PA
‘You’ll be dealt with’
This is a season that began with Bournemouth’s Antoine Semenyo reporting being racially abused at Liverpool, although Mr Masters said “the protocols worked”.
He added: “A lot of our players and participants, managers, referees are subject to abuse, a lot of it racism.
“And we’re trying our best to deal with that, working with our stakeholders and working with the social media companies to try to solve those issues.”
Image: Bournemouth’s Antoine Semenyo (left) was racially abused at Anfield this season. Pic: PA
For the league, that is not symptomatic of racist abuse becoming more prevalent in stadiums.
“The Premier League is a very permissive environment,” Mr Masters said. “Very few other places you can come and scream and shout and support your team.
“But I think that fans know where that line is. No violence, no threatened intimidation, and no discrimination. If you do, then you’ll be dealt with.”
Polarised society
The political climate can become problematic, although Mr Masters does not directly reference the summer’s anti-immigration protests when asked.
“Those are political issues, and I think that football’s role is to provide that distraction,” he said.
“Football stands slightly to the side to where society is at the moment, where we are seeing a little bit of polarisation of views. Football, I think, can help in that aspect.”
Image: Semenyo has been one of this campaign’s star perfomers. Pic: PA
Social media anonymity
Too many feel they can hurl racist abuse at footballers on social media – and Mr Masters insists the league is “very restless” about eradicating that.
Greater identity checks could help.
Mr Masters said: “There’s an anonymity to it, I think, which, perhaps wrongly, in my view, gives people the view that they can pretty much say and do what they want.
“And I just simply don’t think it should be part of a professional footballer’s life to have to put up with this sort of stuff, which is why we’re taking what action we can.
“Obviously, anything that makes it easier [to find the perpetrators] I would be in principle supportive of, but I think it goes to a lot of other issues around freedom of information.”
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2:40
Football sees surge in online hate
AI and algorithms
There is a unit at the Premier League dedicated to pursuing social media firms over racist abuse, which has no complaints publicly about the conduct of the tech giants.
But the league’s director of content protection, Tim Cooper, told Sky News: “The platforms can do more by changing their algorithms, looking at the opting in to see abuse rather than perhaps opting out of seeing it. That would be a step in the right direction.
“And ultimately, it’s for us to keep trying to push cases through and get good real-world deterrent actions, alongside law enforcement and other enforcement bodies around the world.”
There are concerns about the use of AI to create racist images and abusers using phrases or jumbled letters to circumvent algorithms.
“It’s very much gone beyond just a text rant now, which is obviously bad enough, but now we’re seeing that people are using images to create some of the most offensive things that you could imagine,” Mr Cooper said.
“I think video will be something in the future going forward that could be a problem, and we have seen that with deepfakes.”
Instagram owner Meta and Elon Musk‘s X both said they would not provide detail about any work to eradicate racism – declining months of requests for interviews.
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1:38
FA considering social media boycott over racism
Being on social media means children are more aware than ever of incidents of racist abuse across football.
After leading the class in west London, Premier League Primary Stars coordinator Benjamin Abrahams said: “Having to speak to young pupils about things they’ve heard, things they know about, can sometimes be tough.
“But actually, it’s a great chance to speak to them and have those open conversations. To discuss why things are said, why things happen, but [why] it’s not right, and be able to discuss what is correct and what should we all hope for.”