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Pension watchdogs are scrutinising the collapse of Ralph & Russo, the upmarket British-based fashion brand which is now at the centre of a legal fight.

Sky News understands that The Pensions Regulator is examining the treatment of the company’s retirement scheme in the period before administrators were called in in March.

The status of the regulator’s work was unclear on Friday, although sources said its work had got under way recently.

Ralph & Russo, which was sold last week by its joint administrators to Retail Ecommerce Ventures (REV), a US-based investment vehicle, is best-known for having designed the Duchess of Sussex’s £56,000 engagement dress.

It collapsed after running out of cash, with the business failing to make a number of salary payments and staff pension contributions in the months prior to its insolvency.

The Pensions Regulator, which has a wide range of enforcement powers, said in a statement that it did not comment on “individual schemes or employers”.

“Where a company has become insolvent we will work with relevant third parties, such as insolvency practitioners, the Insolvency & Redundancy Payment Services and the pension scheme provider in our role to protect savers,” it added.

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“We have no further comment.”

Administrators from Begbies Traynor and Quantuma have launched a High Court action against Tamara Ralph, the brand’s co-founder, alleging that she and business partner Michael Russo extracted substantial sums of money from the company.

In the particulars of claim, a legal document which sets out the basis of their case, the joint administrators alleged that from October 2020 until March this year, the company “failed to make any pension contributions to Aviva, the company’s pension trustee… notwithstanding the fact that employee contributions were deducted automatically from the employees’ monthly salary via the company’s payroll and PAYE mechanisms”.

The documents assert that “approximately £176,000 was appropriated and/or diverted from the company pension scheme”.

In a statement on Friday, a spokesman for Ms Ralph said that she “has not been involved in any wrongdoing”.

The spokesman added that “along with the company’s directors and c-suite [top executive] staff were advised to seek financial and legal advice prior to making any payments from Ralph & Russo”.

“Ms Ralph was off on maternity leave at the time but the directors followed the advice of their legal and financial advisors on all payments.

“One of the advisors dealing with the financial decisions was Andrew Andronikou of the firm Quantuma [who] subsequently became one of the joint administrators.

“The advice from Andrew and Quantuma was followed completely.”

Ms Ralph had previously denounced the claims against her in the court action as “misconceived and demonstrably false”.

A spokesman for the joint administrators said: “We have a statutory duty to investigate the affairs of the company, the conduct of the directors and any shadow directors and, in particular, in relation to the £60m invested into the company and spent by the founder directors at the expense of the pension regulator, HMRC, secured, preferential and unsecured creditors.

“We are continuing our enquiries in that regard.”

The rescue of R&R by REV – which was set up by Tai Lopez and Alex Mehr, two entrepreneurs – follows the injection of tens of millions of pounds in funding into Ralph & Russo from the likes of Candy Ventures, the vehicle of entrepreneur Nick Candy, and John Caudwell, the billionaire founder of the Phones 4U retail chain.

Tennor Holding, the owner of the La Perla lingerie brand and investment vehicle of financier Lars Windhorst, invested roughly £40m in return for a minority stake in Ralph & Russo in 2019 which valued it at approximately £175m.

The fashion house, which specializes in haute couture and ready-to-wear clothing and luxury goods, has notched a number of notable achievements during its brief history.

In 2014, it was the first British designer in nearly a century to be accredited by the French body which decides which fashion labels can officially be designated haute couture.

It sprang to global prominence in 2017 when Meghan Markle wore one of the designer’s dresses in her engagement photographs.

Ralph & Russo’s celebrity customers are also reported to include Beyonce, Angelina Jolie and Gwyneth Paltrow.

Its average client spends £50,000 per transaction, and it has opened boutiques in Doha, Dubai and Monaco.

The company also operates from locations in London’s Mayfair and New York’s Fifth Avenue, befitting its internationally renowned designs.

Its journey into choppy legal and financial waters was partly triggered by the pandemic’s impact on its business, with a dearth of red carpet events – one of the mainstays of the haute couture industry – hitting demand for Ralph & Russo’s dresses.

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UK long-term borrowing costs highest this century

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UK long-term borrowing costs highest this century

UK long-term borrowing costs have hit their highest level since 1998.

The unwanted milestone for the Treasury’s coffers was reached ahead of an auction of 30-year bonds, known as gilts, this morning.

The yield – the effective interest rate demanded by investors to hold UK public debt – peaked at 5.21%.

At that level, it is even above the yield seen in the wake of the mini-budget backlash of 2022 when financial markets baulked at the Truss government’s growth agenda which contained no independent scrutiny from the Office for Budget Responsibility.

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The premium is up, market analysts say, because of growing concerns the Bank of England will struggle to cut interest rates this year.

Just two cuts are currently priced in for 2025 as investors fear policymakers’ hands could be tied by a growing threat of stagflation.

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The jargon essentially covers a scenario when an economy is flatlining at a time of rising unemployment and inflation.

Growth has ground to a halt, official data and private surveys have shown, since the second half of last year.

Critics of the government have accused Sir Keir Starmer and his chancellor, Rachel Reeves, of talking down the economy since taking office in July amid their claims of needing to fix a “£22bn black hole” in the public finances.

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Chancellor reacts to inflation rise

Both warned of a tough budget ahead. That first fiscal statement put businesses and the wealthy on the hook for £40bn of tax rises.

Corporate lobby groups have since warned of a hit to investment, pay growth and jobs to help offset the additional costs.

At the same time, consumer spending has remained constrained amid stubborn price growth elements in the economy.

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UK economy showed no growth

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Higher borrowing costs also reflect a rising risk premium globally linked to the looming return of Donald Trump as US president and his threats of universal trade tariffs.

The higher borrowing bill will pose a problem for Ms Reeves as she seeks to borrow more to finance higher public investment and spending.

Tuesday’s auction saw the Debt Management Office sell £2.25bn of 30-year gilts to investors at an average yield of 5.198%.

It was the highest yield for a 30-year gilt since its first auction in May 1998, Refinitiv data showed.

This extra borrowing could mean Ms Reeves is at risk of breaking the spending rules she created for herself, to bring down debt, and so she may have less money to spend, analysts at Capital Economics said.

“There is a significant chance that the Office for Budget Responsibility (OBR) will judge that the Chancellor Rachel Reeves is on course to miss her main fiscal rule when it revises its forecasts on 26 March. To maintain fiscal credibility, this may mean that Ms Reeves is forced to tighten fiscal policy further,” said Ruth Gregory, the deputy chief UK economist at Capital Economics.

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Growing threat to finances from rising bills

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There is mounting evidence that consumers are facing hikes to bills on many fronts after Next became the latest to warn of price rises ahead.

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Higher prices for 2025 as Christmas trading fails to meet expectations – BRC says

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Higher prices for 2025 as Christmas trading fails to meet expectations - BRC says

Shop prices will rise in 2025 as the key Christmas trading period failed to meet retailers’ expectations, according to industry data.

Shop sales grew just 0.4% in the so-called golden quarter, the critical three shopping months from October to December, according to the British Retail Consortium (BRC) and big four accounting company KPMG.

Many retailers rely on trade during this period to see them through tougher months such as January and February. Some make most of their yearly revenue over Christmas.

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The minimal growth came amid weak consumer confidence and difficult economic conditions, the lobby group said, and “reflected the ongoing careful management of many household budgets”, KPMG’s UK head of consumer, retail and leisure Linda Ellett said.

Non-food sales were the worst hit in the four weeks up to 28 December, figures from the BRC showed and were actually less than last year, contracting 1.5%.

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Food sales grew 3.3% across all of 2024, compared to 2023.

In the festive period beauty products, jewellery and electricals did well, the BRC’s chief executive Helen Dickinson said.

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Poundland customers left Christmas shopping late

AI-enabled tech and beauty advent calendars boosted festive takings, Ms Ellett said.

What it means for next year

With employer costs due to rise in April as the minimum wage and employers’ national insurance contributions are upped, businesses will face higher wage bills.

The BRC estimates there is “little hope” of covering these costs through higher sales, so retailers will likely push up prices and cut investment in stores and jobs, “harming our high streets and the communities that rely on them”, Ms Dickinson said.

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Separate figures from high street bank Barclays showed card spending remained flat since December 2023, while essential spending fell 3% partly as inflation concerns forced consumers to cut back but also through lower fuel costs.

The majority of those surveyed by the lender (86%) said they were concerned about rising food costs and 87% were concerned about household bills.

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Numerous UK retail giants will update shareholders on their Christmas performance this week including high street bellwether Next on Tuesday, Marks and Spencer and Tesco on Thursday and Sainsbury’s on Friday.

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